Maserati Khamsin

Thanks Bob!

The light switch appears to hold its' liquid well
I thought I had seen an instructional video of seal replacement on a headlight cylinder on youtube a while ago, but it may have been a different cylinder. I'll check it all properly when she's here, which will probably be tonight.

Yes. connecting the brake-accumulators is a PITA, but it all seems dry now.

On a RHD Khamsin the LHM-tank and tray have to come out for any work on main sphere and brake accumulators. Especially the regulator is VERY hard to get to. Patience is an asset, and small hands are too!

More to follow,

Jack.

 

HI Jack,

That You Tube cylinder has nothing to do with the cylinders mounted on the head lights in your car.
The trick is to get the little brass washer/ring out that holds the little rubber o-ring in place. (I did that with a little self tapping screw that I inserted by with finger force and pulled it out.) Do not twist the piston axially in the cylinder housing when the little connection tube is out! There is a second sleeve in the housing and if you lose the alignment of the holes, you are in for an evening full of trial and error to get the holes aligned again. I speak from experience

May be you can use this experience.

Ciao,

Bart

 

Hi Bart,

Thanks much for that piece of wisdom!

We're fetching the car this morning, once here I will have a closer look at what is happening. It appears not to be leaking with the pod down, so no fluid loss from that source is expected on the road.
Obviously I haven't had one of these apart before: Are the seals available if I need them? Does anyone have an exploded view of the cylinder?

Thanks!

Jack.

 

Jack,

I think there's possibly a language issue here? I believe he's talking about how the supply and return pipes connect to these cylinders. Have a look at the parts books. This is what was leaking on my seat cylinder in my Bora. A simple repair.

Trust me, if your cylinders are OEM it is not possible to service the seals yourself. The end cap has grooves machined on the inside diameter and the cylinder has grooves machined on the exterior. The cap is installed over the end during assembly and then molten nylon is injected so as to interlock the grooves and the nylon. The after market ones available have a threaded end cap. Much more sensible. I hope that's what you have on your car.

 

Hi,

Not that much a language problem, more taking it for granted one knows that the original cylinders cannot be taken apart...
If they leak between the rod/piston and the cylinder body: replace!
Normally they start leaking at the connection tubes due to dried the out O-rings.
What you describe as a simple repair turned out to be a real PITA to me because I did what I wrote above.
I have not seen an exploded view of these cylinders, if anybody has a drawing or a sketch, please post it?

Ciao,

Bart

 

A friend of mine and I cut one open. That revealed the retaining grooves and nylon. Not terribly complicated but they are assembled/sealed as I described.

I like the ones the guy in Australia has been making. Seems like a good idea long term.

 

Finally, at 6PM yesterday we drove to the old house to go fetch the Khamsin.

This was going to be the first proper drive, all of 10 miles to the new house; remember, the first drive was a hectic 2 miles after dark, with hazards on and no lights, when 435 arrived in my town, having off-loaded her at the nearest possible spot to my house. That was 9 months ago.
The first thing done then was taking the main hydraulics out and send them away for checking/overhaul and/or replacement. I finally got the lot back in December (don't ask) and because of losing an O-ring and a house-move inbetween only got her up and running last week.

So yesterday we hopped in, inserted the key, contact. Pump ticking, one pump on the accellerator and start. Now imagine sitting in a Khamsin with the windows down, reversed into a single garage, with a slightly leaking B-bank exhaust being fired up, the erupting noise is, well, intimidating. Engage first, roll her out, close garage door and off we go.

I know from when she was off-loaded there was slight clutch-slip, hopefully it doesn't burn out going up the steep dead-end street I was living in: thankfully it held. With the hydraulics working properly the steering doesn't feel sloppy like it did anymore, and the brakes bite hard. Great!

We make our way out of town, to a more open road and give it a little more go: she's eager to run, and I notice how much more compliant the suspension is than that of my DD Merc C230 Kompressor coupe, which is really rock-hard. The K is very comfortable, almost Jaguar-like! Still, we take it easy, there is air in the tyres but they do need some more. Gas-station. We roll in with the loud beast, and everything there comes to a stand-still. They know us there from the Merc and my former Ferrari, but no-one has ever seen a Khamsin. All petrol-attendants as well as the occupants of other cars stand around it in awe. Feels kind of silly filling your tyres with 20 people watching what you are doing. None of them know what it is, and none believe the age of the car.

Get back in and fire her up, feels again a lot better now with proper tyre-pressure all around. We get to the 2-mile up-hill of the Glencairn Express Way. Speed is increasing, but in 4th the clutch starts to slip on accelleration. Damn, that's to bad, we're just starting to replace initial worry and care with having fun and really enjoying ourselves! So, no more stick, we roll up the hill at a constant 120km/h and enjoy the ride. Steering is now tight, suspension feels taut yet very comfortable, indeed, Jeremy Clarkson was right when he described the Khamsin as for the gentry to waft along at 160 miles an hour. It all feels very capable and relaxed, even though our speed was a lot less than that.
In the long curves on the other side, she reveals some of her capabilities. The front wheels describe the line accurately according to steering input, the rest follows with ease and grace, the absence of any drama very noticeable.
We're almost home, and the last worry is the rail of the sliding gate sticking out at the top of the criveway, which slopes down from there. The K is low, and the 215/65-series tyres mounted don't make it easier. No worry, she rolls over with about a centimetre to spare.

Once parked in the garage, my brother-in-law who was driving and I sat on the lawn outside, just looking at the car. We concluded that she's part of a breed that is extinct, the rare combination of elegance, brutality and awe-inspiring mechanicals. They don't make them like that anymore.

Some questions to follow, but will create another post for them. Thought I'd share my experience!

Best,

Jack.

Btw, for those who don't know, I do not drive, as I don't have a license due to eye-sight problems. I've had cars since I was 17, and am a true addict, but enjoy mostly from the passenger seat.

 

1)
I need to do my clutch. The Indy uses a Jaguar-plate. Does the Khamsin as well?
2)
Does anyone have a cross-reference for front wheel-bearings? Front left is noisy and needs replacing.
3)
As said in an earlier post, I have a vibration in my brake-pedal when just feathering, but the brakes work fine. I didn't bleed them yet after replacing the accumulators, and expect this to be related. Am I wrong?
4)
The Maserati and Khamsin scripts on the tail on my car are painted silver, as are the wiper arms. Is this correct?
5)
My battery is mounted in the back where most keep their tool-roll. There is nothing holding the battery down, nor any evidence of what should be there other than the base. What should be there to positively locate the battery on its' tray?

Thanks much for input,

Jack.

 

A lot of us feel exactly the same way.

 

Hello Jack...

I may have some answers:

1. Not sure of

2. I have an old reference as follows:

Inner - Federal Mogul CSC-48233
Outer - Federal Mogul CSC-48232

Cannot confirm that this info is 100% correct..

3. When I had my brake spheres redone and the main replaced, I did not have
to bleed the brakes...

4. Scripts on my car are chromed.

5. US cars have the battery on the front passenger side... Cannot help you here!

Not much info, but hope some of it is helpful...

Mike

 

@ Mike:

Thanks for the info, Mike.
I'll take the bearings out and take your info with. I usually fit Japanese bearings that I get locally and always performed really well in my Jags, am just hoping Maserati didn't fit some awkward size
Brakes: Inevitably a little air will get in the system, but just the volume of the lines that have to come off to replace the accumulators. I'll bleed them and will come back if the problem persists.

@ Carmine: I guess that's what brings us together here. A fine bunch of massochists!

Best,

Jack.

 

Hi Jack,
You guys seem to be at the same place I was after driving my car home from Scotland. I too just stood there taking in the beauty.

1) I need to do my clutch. The Indy uses a Jaguar-plate. Does the Khamsin as well?

I think it's the same as used on early V8 Astons, I'll dig out the brand and size (something like 10.5")

2) Does anyone have a cross-reference for front wheel-bearings? Front left is noisy and needs replacing.

3) As said in an earlier post, I have a vibration in my brake-pedal when just feathering, but the brakes work fine. I didn't bleed them yet after replacing the accumulators, and expect this to be related. Am I wrong?

You should bleed the full system, some tips are on Enrico's Maserati pages under the help section for Khamsins. Only the seat and headlights are self bleeding (i.e. you have to move them up & down. The headlights can be cancelled out of the circuit as we found out at K40. There is a connector block on the passenger inner wing from which you will see lines going towards the headlights. On it you will find a bolt (not threaded all the way in) held in place with a locknut. You can undo the locknut and screw the bolt all the way in (but to be careful count the turns as to where it was). This apparently isolates the headlight circuit.

4) The Maserati and Khamsin scripts on the tail on my car are painted silver, as are the wiper arms. Is this correct?

Scripts should be chrome. The wiper arms on my car a painted silver too.

5) My battery is mounted in the back where most keep their tool-roll. There is nothing holding the battery down, nor any evidence of what should be there other than the base. What should be there to positively locate the battery on its' tray?

Should be held down with a plate. I'll take a picture for you and post in the next day or so. Though I have to get in the garage and there's a load of snow in front of it.

 

Hello Jack / Khamsin433...

I think I need to clarify something... When I said I didn't bleed the brakes,
that was correct, I didn't... However, when I had the brake spheres re-charged
and installed a new main sphere, I did bleed the whole system at the main sphere...

If I remeber correctly, this was back in 2008... I installed the brake and main
spheres, started the car, and bled the system at the main sphere.. Somewhere
I have instructions for exactly what I did, but can't seem to find them right now..

Anyway, thought I should clarify that to remove any confusion on bleeding...

Mike

 

@ Bal

Thanks so much Bal, I'll take the scripts off and see what I find under the paint. It appeared rather odd to me to see them silver painted, and don't understand the motivation. This is a very dry country car devoid of rust or corrosion.

The Indy took a 9.5 or 10" Jag plate, but I can't remember what engine it had, so K's clutch may be bigger. We were just surprised that the splines were identical.

Bal, pics of your battery mounting arrangement would be highly appreciated!

@ Bal & Mike:
I was thinking about the bleeding, and concluded that anything in the system that has an LHM-return line might not require bleeding. I don't see a provision at the main sphere to bleed there, nor can one get to it with everything in place on a RHD car. I'll have a browse at Enrico's page.

Best,

Jack.

 

You begin by bleeding the main portion of the system. The Regulator and main sphere.
Those portions of the system that recirculate fluid will then self purge of any air via operation. Do that first.

But you do have to bleed the braking system. I found that a necessary periodic requirement. When there is air or nitrogen from a leaking sphere in the braking circuits then it gets compressed rather quickly when you step on the brake pedal. This can lead to a grabbing sensation and uneven application of the brakes which may make the car pull to one side or the other as well. But you will stop pretty well anyway just the initial application will be jerky.

 

My car was re-sprayed in its' original Rosso Rubino in 1997. A quality job, the paint still looks great. However, the fool that took the stainless trim-strip off the top of the R/H doorskin damaged it. There's a screwdriver-mark and the strip is rather wavy. I didn't take it off yet, but looking at it I am not sure I can successfully nurse it back to pristine.

So, the hunt is on for a replacement. This, and a L/H sunvisor will be the only non-mechanical parts needed for 435.

Thanks!

Jack.

 

Hi Jack

Try MIE for an interior Door trim strip.
The Sunvisors are ..... wiat for it......... mid 70's VOLVO

I used the original frame, Made a "butterfly" folded plastic used trim stiffening about 1mm
cover one side stitch around the outer edge fold back over the frame and glue together.

Here are pictures of the new ones I had made

Graeme
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Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Hi Graeme,

I need the outside trimstrip, not the inner. Will try MIE, didn't think of it.

Ah, that's why the sun-visor looks so familiar! Mine are brown vynil, will be tough to find matching material, but that's one worry less. Does the passenger side on the K have a mirror or pocket in the sun-visor?

I am a little disappointed about the lack of central locking in a pretty expensive '82 car...

Bob, thanks for the guidelines for bleeding the brakes. What you describe is exactly what is happening, even if very minimal. She'll be going on jackstands for a new clutch soon, at which point I'll tackle the bleeding as well.

Best,

Jack.

 

Hi Mike,

I hope I didn't come across as picky when I talked about the bleeding process, I wasn't trying to be.

Jack,

The handbook describes the clutch assembly being 10.5" but I can't remember if it was a Borg & Beck that was OEM spec. I know McGraths sell remanufactured units on an exchange basis and apparently list the same one for Ghibli's, Indy's and Khamsins on their website.

The scripts appear to be good quality brass (?) based items that are chrome plated. This I know due to a small chip in one of mine.

As for the photo, I'll get one for you over this weekend.

Cheers

Bal

 

Graeme,
That is really nice work. An auto upholstery shop was able to do this for you?
Carmine

 

Hi Carmine
It was the auto trimmers who came up with the idea. I did some work on the frame so it was about an inch smaller than the cover and that way it has the correct look.


I used stiff carb board to get the correct shape and it had a seconday bend so it sits flush with the roof and screen pillar. I also added some small dia ally tube in the area where it is clipped into the plastic

I wish now that I had taken pictures during the process.

Graeme

 

I've got a couple of cars that could benefit from this. The trouble is that the visors are really cheap, they are the worst of the worst, but that's what's original.

How could they put such cheap crap in these exclusive and expensive cars in the first place? It just looks so out of place.

My Biturbo, Ghibli Open Cup, Mercury Sable Wagon and Suburban all have very nice sun visors. They actually work ... Not so with the Bora and Espada. The Espada is infamous for ... Sun Visor Failure. LOL

 

Hi Bal...

No worries, I didn't think you were being picky... In my case, all that was needed was the bleeding at the main sphere and regulator... Everything seemed to worked perfectly after that...

The collective wisdom of this group is what makes it work so well!!! All of our experiences with such a limited production automobile are worth their weight in Gold (imho)....

Mike

 

Totally agree with your sentiments Mike.

Regards

Bal

 

Great info again, Gentlemen!

I may opt to have the clutch remanufactured here if the centre of the plate looks good. They also re-shim the pressure plate and clean up the surface. I've done this with good outcome several times for Jags, and, for a nice change, it is cheap!

Getting the box out with the car on jack-stands will be a bit of a challenge, I'm sure it's a heavy unit. Is there anything in particular I should watch out for?

Oh, I had a look and the remaining sunvisor is black. How odd.

Yes, the scripts are brass. They cleaned up well and will go to the re-plater this week.

Best,

Jack.