Maserati Khamsin

Armaz,

Happily done, now make sure you stay on the road!:0

Ciao,

Bart

 

Added some more photo's, happy to report that my suspension is now mostly clean. A few small chores remain, but | am very pleased with the result.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.121447951370159.20899.119309631583991&type=3&uploaded=3

Best,

Jack.

 

Hi Jack,

Looks like you have the first diesel Khamsin

Job looks nice and very original!

Ciao,

Bart

 

Hi Bart,

Thanks!

Yes, there's no doubt when you walk into my garage. The smell goes away after a few dats, and the diesel leaves a bit of a film.

I am after the original look. I don't like over-restored, and with this car it'd be a sin to overdo it.Preservation is the word.

In my experience, once a car is properly done this way, you can drive it and keep it looking as is with little effort. Of course the climate helps too.

Next is the engine-bay and the mill itself. Not too bad, it was kept fairly clean. Pics to follow as I progress.

Best,

Jack.

 

Hi Amaz
Congratulations well done.
See everone these cars arn,t that difficult to work on.

Amaz you have passed the Kamsin owners test and become "K competent grade Three ( just made that up)
Grade two is a full fuel system tune float levels and carb balance.
Grade one is a complete cam shim adjustment and correct cam timing.
I think I should stop there before I start something

Well done again

Kind regards
Graeme


Regards
Graeme

 

Graeme,

You started something

Do the shims and cam timing before you do the carbs!

Am embarking on this journey shortly. Should be fun with the engine on a stand, but not looking forward to doing it with the mill in situ. Calves and timing will be a PITA.

Are the shims Jag-size? I better know where to get them before I open it all up.

Best,

Jack

 

Hi Graeme,

Thanks, lets see what comes up next. It seems that as an owner of a Khamsin, you never manage to come to rest.

Kind regards,

Armaz

 

Hi,

I know that we talked on this issue within this thread. According to what was discussed the cap shall open by pressures around 7 lbs. what is the temperature at this pressure? 110°C?

KR

 

Hi Armaz,

The radiator cap releases the pressure whenever the pressure goes above the limit, in this case 7 LBS and is independent of the temperature.

The Maserati cooling system does not like high pressure so the max temp will de around 90 degrees Centigrade on your gage.

Success,

Bart

 

What size are the valve-shims?

Am about to proceed to this area, but would like to know where to get shims before I take it apart. Hoping they are Jag-size shims, have some and more around the corner.

Any tips for the procedure? I haven't done this before on the Maserati V-8.

Best,

Jack.

 

Hi Jack
Yes the shims are Jag size BUT... althought they are the same diamater they are much thicker.

There was discussion on this covered here on FC:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/maserati/392395-4-9l-time-saving-tips-timing-chain-adjustments.html

May I suggest that there are some articles about this Job how ever there are some important parts that get left out of most of the articles.

Before you start read whats in the hand book.

Most cars and I really should say every car I have done this job on the CAM timing is way out.
If you know it is correct then this will be straight forward.

there is a very good chance you will need to gring the shims to get the clearances. a good machine shop with a magnetic bed surface grinder will be able to do the job as the shims are fully hardened throu.

Key points to get the CAMS out what ever you do dont remove the nut on the frount of the cam. unless you know the timing is incorrect.

With the cam covers off rotate the engine over, up to 7 time and watch carfully the link will come to the top. when the engine is at TDC as viewed on the fly wheel marker viewed under the car !! Do one head at a time, you can do both but it will do your head in until you have done it a few times.

Check to see if the alignment marks match the cam if they are spot on the cam timing is out! They are only there as a reference, I have found they will be about the width of the mark either side where they align when timmed correctly.

Release the mechanical tensioner on the frount of the head ( a 10/32 fully treaded bolt pulls out the hollow pin). and stuff some rag down the front of the cover so when you drop the clip and spacer its easy to retrieve!
If you do drop it right down not alls lost just gets meesy litterally you can actully retrieve things via the dry supm supply connection on the left hand side of the sump, Hose off pinch nut off and take the three bolts from the fitting and you have access to the bottom of the sump... loverly job... not

A tip remove a cam cap on each cam and put some paper under the cam and on the bearing surface and do the cap up a bit, push down on the chain and nip the caps up, makes it easier to get the link out. and take note of the way the clip is installed.

Get some soft wire or strong string and tie to the ends of the chain and secure the wire so there is tension on the chain.

Slowly release the papered cam and watch which way the cam rotates.... it will.
There is a nut on the other end of the chain to help turn the cam on assembly. use the paper to hold it again.

Please see my note on the other thread about tensoning the cam. Do not do it with the engine running 1ft/lb is what the book says and it correct. Some early Ferrari's and ALFAs have springs in the these tensioners and self tension Maserati ones are excentric cams.

Have fun and take you time. and take some pics

Regards
Graeme

 

Hi Bart,

Thank you for the Information. I somehow have an understanding which does not go along with these figures. My understanding for a car without an expansion tank is that if the water escapes from the cooling system we will face overheating problems, since the there is not sufficient water in the engine to be used for cooling. However, if we can manage to keep the water in the engine, the only thing we will need to do is to cool the radiator and the water which is still in the system. It is obvious that a cap which opens at a pressure around 1.2 atm leads to higher pressure within the engine and I personally beleive that the engine is not the weak Point at this pressure range but rather the packings e.g. heater tubes and fixtures. As a result can we say that for closed Loop cooling system (without Expansion tank) it is better to apply higher pressure caps!

KR

Armaz

 

Thanks so much fpr ypur elaborate answer Graeme!

Pity the shims are not within the Jag range: I much dislike grinding shims, but have a good machine-shop.

I have only dropped a nut behind the timing case once in my life, on a Jag V-12. It dropped right into the sump too. Fortunately the engine was on a stand so taking the sump off was easy. Rags are my friends ever since!

I have no ilusions about the timing, and am I correct when I suppose the marks on the cams are assembly-marks, and just an indication of about where the exact timing is. Degreeing cams will be a real job and a half on this engine.

Yes, I'll take photos, as I do with just about everything.

Best,

Jack.

 

Hi Jack, there are some V8 Maserati shims on Ebay with this item number:

140853672691

I have no experience of the product or vendor however....
hope that may help..

Mark

 

Thanks Mark, I'll have a look. Guess I better open her up and see what I need.

Best,

Jack.

 

Hi all,

I am happy to say that in about a week Jay Leno's test drive of a Khamsin will be broadcast on his website jaylenosgarage dot com
I suggested he drive one when we first spoke about him doing the foreword for my book last summer and am very glad it took place!
This promises to be the very best video segment on the Khamsin online anywhere!

The car is AM120US1046, fly yellow black, Euro bumpers, that in the Riverside International Automotive Museum and its owner reported Jay was really impressed with the car and enjoyed it a lot.

So something good to loo forward to!

Best regards,

Marc

 

His web site says May 27th

Waiting

Cheers

Mark

 

That's fantastic Marc! It's great exposure for the Khamsin and the passionate people who like them.

Ciao and best!

~Trev

 

1975 Maserati Kazmin - Mr Leno, please have someone correct the spelling!

 

Hi All
Well done for organising this and probably an appropriate person but as you can see it hasnt got off to a good start. Kasmin sounds like a flower?

Jay Leno's Garage - Blog Listing

Regards
Graeme

 

Good work, Marc! Those "Kazmins" are nice cars.

 

Hi all,

Well the spelling in this preview, soon to be corrected, is a small price to pay for the professionalism to be expected, the video segment will be great, I saw them film a couple last month while there and not only will the spelling get corrected but JL and his team will get the utmost out of the occasion. Top pros at work.

The amazing thing about him is that he can talk as much about steam cars from the 30s as turbine cars from the 60s, Duesenbergs or...Masers and Citroens, hence he will be able to explain the K in very clear enthusiastic words...can't wait

best regards,

Marc

 

Jack it's been alot of years since I performed the european cam timing and set clearnces on my Bora so I'm a little rusty. At that time there ws a terrific article -write up done by Stan Bishop form the LA Maserati club. Ask around as it may be available on the net somewhere.

Yes it'salot of work and very fussy. I did mine with the engine out which is a lot easier.
When I finished I discoverred that my USA spec Bora was alreaady timed with the european settings!

One thing to watch out for is cam chain snap. This can happen when a cam lobe has a valve fully open and you loosen the tension adjustment. The spring of the valve snaps the cam one way or the other and sends a wave down the chain causing it to jump a tooth deep in the bowels of the engine. Always remove the cam covers and check the cam lobe positions before loosening the tension adjustment.

I think I had an engine shop grind Jag shims close to spec and then I hand finished them with fine emery paper on a piece of glass.

Bob S.

 

Hi Armaz,

The point of the expansion tank on a Khamsin is that this IS the reservoir with the cap on it!
The radiatior itself does not have a cap.
The problem with the Khamsin is that the engine under pressure presses out the cooling liquid.
If the engine cools down afterward and you open the tank you can see the liquid level half way down the tank thus also the big diameter rubber hose to t.he radiator is half way filled. This leaves a lot of air volume that when it heats up again expands and pushes the pressure up and the story continues. Remember air expands a lot more when warmed up than cooling liquid!

NEVER put a higher pressure cap on the system than prescribed, 0.5 Atm overhere. When the pressure gets higher the first thing to go is your waterpump seal and secondly a head gasket!

If you check the threads under my name you can find some pictures and a story how I added a contemporary tank to my system resulting in a top filled system that presses out and sucks back in cooling liquid when necessary. Works like a dream also on heavy load when the Khamsin is being used for what it is designed!

Take care,

Ciao,
Bart

 

Hi Graeme,

Excellent description and covers most of the tricks. I did my engines always with the engines in place. V8's and the 6 in line. I doubt if the shims are hardened through, i had mine hardened again after grinding.
I had copies made of the factory tools to measure the lift of the cams and the opening of the valves. On top of the quite patience demanding procedure one has to calculate the angle under which the micrometer is measuring...
My advise: never do this job if you are in a hurry and read the manual until you fully capture the way of working.
From all my Masers the K is the trickiest, speciqlly the left bank on a LHD. One has to take the steering column shaft out to create room to work.

Good luck to all,

Bart