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Maserati Khamsin

Discussion in 'Maserati' started by Maeter, Feb 24, 2008.

  1. AMLC

    AMLC Formula Junior

    Apr 4, 2009
    484
    Ok, it is probably #303 then!

    I scanned two b/w photos of the car, see below.
    What is remarkable is that they didn’t clean the car at all before taking the photos.

    If someone wants to have his own copy of the article, this 1975 Motor article is also in the book “Supercars of the seventies” from 1979, see cover below, I think copies can be found on Ebay for example. The book also contains road tests of Indy, Merak and Bora.

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  3. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 Veteran
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    Thank you for the scans, with lots of rain and many small muddy roads it was impractical for journalists in the UK to wash cars and make them all pretty just for some photos, I have seen far worse.

    What is interesting is that this car has the small dainty slot and gear lever version of auto box, I have only seen that on one or two others such as 186 see photo.
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  4. rga

    rga Formula Junior

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  5. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 Veteran
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  6. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
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  8. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 Veteran
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  9. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie

    Apr 22, 2006
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    I am on their mailing list and they seem to list interesting parst, but there are never any prices. Hard to buy parts when prices are not shown. Would be interested in learning your experience with them.
    Ivan
     
  10. Froggie

    Froggie Formula Junior

    Sep 27, 2017
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    I have interacted with them.
    When you ask for a quote, they reply.
    Not cheap, though...
     
  11. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    664
    First contact.
    Not good.
    Paid for FedEx overnight was told they shipped with standard postal airmail but that they would give me a discount on a future order!
    Managed to get a PayPal refund after playing lawyer---which is what I do in non-Maserati life!
    ☹️
     
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  13. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula Junior
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    Jul 15, 2012
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    Technical Question; Electrical -

    Is it necessary for the headlight "doors" to be in the UP position for the headlights to be energized?
    The Khamsin wiring diagram in the Owner's Manual, and electrical fitting number 35 on Page 206, indicate a "Light switch, hydraulically operated".
    Does this mean the headlights are OFF until the buckets are raised (the switch senses hydraulic pressure)?
    If necessary, does anyone know where to find hydraulic switch 35 so I can bypass it?

    I want to troubleshoot my headlight wiring, the lights are not all coming on. But the headlight "doors" are DOWN, the Kh is apart and I have no hydraulic pressure at the moment. The Bora's headlights can be switched ON even with the doors in the DOWN position, and it has no comparable hydraulic switch.

    Grazie,
    - Art
     
  14. barnfieldman

    barnfieldman Rookie

    Apr 18, 2006
    33
    The hydraulic switch is the one on the junction block next to the two accumulator spheres. I believe you can short the two connectors, alternatively you can use switch 22 in Figure 8 in the owners manual. Either way I don't think you need to the headlights raised to get them to turn on.
    Regards
    Paul
     
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  15. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    664
    NOT true. EXACT set up --- w/the exact same hydraulic/interchangeable switch---if functions are different---than one of your two cars has a wiring problem.
    For the K, here it is:
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  16. Mexico074

    Mexico074 Formula 3

    Aug 14, 2008
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    Hi Art...

    If memory serves me right - As indicated by barnfieldman, there is a switch on the dash
    (mine is located to the left of the radio - US version) used to turn the headlights on...

    I believe this would be needed in the case the headlight "doors" were opened manually
    due to a hydraulic issue, and the headlights were needed...

    Mike
     
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  17. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie

    Apr 22, 2006
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    I am having problems separating the half shaft in order to replace the broken steering hardener belt. I removed four allen head bolts (A) that attach the half shaft to the belt pulley. Soaked the joint with PB Blaster and hit it with a hammer and screwdriver all around, but I am not getting any movement and I'm afraid to hit it harder and cause damage. An alternative might be to remove the four nuts (B) that hold the pulley to the differential. Anyone with practical experience that can advice if this is something I should try?
    Ivan
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  18. barnfieldman

    barnfieldman Rookie

    Apr 18, 2006
    33
    Ivan,
    I suspect you may need to remove bolt 28 on table 18 to allow the axle to pull away from the differential in addition to removing the four nuts that hold the pulley to the differential flange.
    Paul
     
  19. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie

    Apr 22, 2006
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    Thank you Paul. I followed your suggestion and removed the upper wishbone bolt (#28). I briefly tried to remove the four nuts that hold the belt pulley to the differential and found that was going to be extremely difficult so I went back to hammering on the half shaft hoping that removing the bolt would have given me enough room for the shaft to come loose. After another 45 minutes of hammering and it finally came loose !

    My advice to anyone contemplating replacing the steering tensioner belt ... do not do it unless it is absolutely necessary or your rear suspension is already out of the car.

    Here are the steps.

    1. Index mark the half shaft with paint so that it goes back in the same position in relation to the belt pulley
    2. Soak the four hex bolts and the joint between the belt pulley and the half shaft with penetrating oil. I used PB Blaster.
    3. Remove the four hex bolts that connect the inner half shaft to the belt pulley. These bolts are going to be tight so an impact wrench is needed. The only way I found to get a straight line (using a long socket extension) between the allen head socket and the impact wrench was by removing the brake caliper assembly. You do NOT want to round off the allen head bolts. Take your time and make sure the socket is well seated inside the bolt.
    4. Place a hydraulic jack under the hub assembly and raise it so that the springs are slightly compressed. This eliminates pressure on the upper wishbone bolt which now needs to be removed. Lower the jack. I put a string so that the hub would not flop down when the half shaft comes loose (see photo).
    5. Using a hammer and screwdriver hit the area between the half shaft and the belt pulley. Rotate the shaft 90 degrees and do it gain, and keep rotating and hitting until it comes loose. There are two locating dowels on the half shaft that get pressed into the belt pulley that is causing the resistance therefore it may take some time.

    Ivan
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  20. MK1044

    MK1044 F1 World Champ
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    Is that the same gear shift knob as on the automatic trans Indy?
     
  21. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 Veteran
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    Here is that of a 71 Indy on Mobile.de which does look extremely similar though not quite identical if you look closely.

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    https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=275227707&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true&makeModelVariant1.makeId=16600&makeModelVariant1.modelId=16&pageNumber=1&scopeId=C&sfmr=false&fnai=prev&searchId=4530bc40-599d-7ea9-de09-91131e001411
     
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  22. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie

    Apr 22, 2006
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    Looks the same as an automatic Ghibli.

    Ivan
     
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  23. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 Veteran
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    Of course most automatic Khamsins after a few early cars such as those mentioned in recent posts had this set up: this is 1264 I photographed at the Oldtimer GP at the Nurburgring August 2009. Steering wheel is aftermarket, not factory.


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  24. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie

    Apr 22, 2006
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    It must be more than just the gear shift cosmetic setup since Park is on the opposite end on the early automatic K. I've had experiences with two automatic Ghiblis and the slush boxes were terrible. I thought the automatic on a late Khamsin was actually not bad.
    Ivan
     
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  25. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 Veteran
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    Yes I must admit I have never taken an interest in auto boxes but I think the early and late slushboxes are from two different brands.

    I drove I don't know how many manual K's, a lot, but only one automatic, the spyder 1030 and it was very suited to a cruise along the beach type of driving. Only top speed was quite limited by the US diff ratio AND the top gear ratio but nowadays that is less of a concern.
     
  26. italiancars

    italiancars F1 Rookie

    Apr 18, 2004
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    I could be wrong but if I remember correctly, the early automatic Khamsins used a Borg Warner transmission later switching to Chrysler TorqueFlite.
     
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  27. bmwracer

    bmwracer Formula Junior

    Mar 2, 2004
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    Toronto
    Both terrible transmissions, I spent some time with an auto Espada and it ruined the car in my opinion. Stick all the way
     
  28. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 Veteran
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    I tend to agree and would never personally consider an automatic but nowadays with speed radars everywhere, heavy traffic an auto becomes an acceptable choice for someone who is not into very fast driving but just wants the cushy Grand Touring experience. Contrary to Lambo and Ferrari V12's the Maserati V8 does not rev as high and is more torquey so the auto box "fits it" better.
     
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