Men's Clothing Discussion | FerrariChat

Men's Clothing Discussion

Discussion in 'Other Off Topic Forum' started by Admiral Thrawn, Sep 22, 2004.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. Admiral Thrawn

    Admiral Thrawn F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2003
    3,932
    Which designers do you think make the best men's clothing? What do you have in your wardrobe, and what would you like to have if an unlimited budget was available? What do you wear to work? What do you wear on the weekend? What fit, fabric and construction criteria do you follow when buying new clothes? I'm also interested to hear about some of the made-to-measure clothing you guys have had made!

    Items to consider are suits, shirts, ties, shoes, belts, coats and casual wear such as polo shirts. You can even include eyewear and watches (although the latter is really an entire topic in itself).

    When it comes to suits, I prefer the Neapolitan cut, often used by Italian designers. Personal favouries are Ermenegildo Zegna, Attolini and Kiton.
    Brioni and Oxxford are also excellent, but produce suits with more of a Roman cut.
    Material-wise, the suits should be of at least Super 120 wool, although the better ones use Super 150 (similar to Zegna's 15milmil15) and Super 180. Anything above Super 180 isn't really worth the cost IMO.
    Construction should be non-fused, canvas front, basted lapels, handpicked lapel edges, and handsewn buttonholes.

    Shirts I like to be 100% cotton. Cotton feels better, breathes much better, and doesn't melt on your skin like synthetics such as polyester in the event of a fire. Favourites are Borrelli, Turnbull & Asser, Hilditch & Key, Kiton, Attolini, Brioni and Ermenegildo Zegna.

    Ties I like in silk, preferably woven rather than printed. There are many great tie makers world wide, really too many to list. Any designers that make excellent suits and shirts likely also produce stunning ties.


    When it comes to finding a suit that is a good fit, I've found that:

    (i) the collar shouldn't buckle at the back of the neck,

    (ii) the collar should fit around the neck in such a way that your standard-spread shirt collar points remain visible and are not covered with the jacket collar,

    (iii) the fabric should not buckle on the upper torso,

    (iv) the jacket sleeves should lie very close to the shoulder to avoid vertical "lines" from appearing on the sleeves, while preventing your shoulder from bulging out,

    (v) the length of the jacket should be such that it barely covers your buttocks at the back,

    (vi) if you prefer padded shoulders, then the shoulder top should form a perfectly straight line, independently of the angle of observation,

    (vii) no wrinkling should be present in the fabric around the waist,

    (viii) the end diameter of the jacket sleeves should be just big enough to let your shirt cuffs move freely,

    (ix) no horizontal wrinkles should appear on the front of the jacket when closing the buttons,

    (x) in my opinion, it's important that the jacket fits closely around the hips and buttocks, or the silhouette is distorted from either the side or the front,

    (xi) the jacket should fit closely around the waist as well, as this results in a closer fit on the torso,

    (xii) the pants need to be cut according to the length of your legs, crotch size, waist size, and hip dimensions.
     
  2. Admiral Thrawn

    Admiral Thrawn F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2003
    3,932
    Belts - Ermenegildo Zegna. Only have a few.

    Shoes - A. Testoni, Edward Green, John Lobb and several inexpensive makes. Not a particularly large collection.

    Watches - Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Rolex. I love watches!

    Coats - Brioni camel-skin coloured cashmere overcoat. Zegna leather coat. These don't get too much wear due to the climate here.

    I also have items of clothing made by Anthony Squires, Trent Nathan, Van Heussen, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Armani, Adidas and Nike sneakers, jeans of various makes, etc.
     
  3. wax

    wax Five Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jul 20, 2003
    52,415
    SFPD
    Full Name:
    Dirty Harry
    Belts - Army Surplus Web. Only have a few. They last forever, adjustable to .0001's of an inch.

    Shoes - Birkenstocks, Skechers. Again, not a particularly large collection - don't yet know much about shoes.

    Watches - Seiko. I hate watches!

    Coats - London Fog camel-barf coloured 100% polyester shell/knit trim w/100% nylon lining. L'Avion leather coat. These don't get too much wear due to the climate here.

    I also have items of clothing made by Jose, Maria, Lupe, etc.
     
  4. Admiral Thrawn

    Admiral Thrawn F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2003
    3,932
    Haha, not exactly the response I was after, but satire is better than nothing! :)
     
  5. enjoythemusic

    enjoythemusic F1 World Champ

    Apr 20, 2002
    10,676
    Worldwide
    Full Name:
    Steven
    Brioni and Armani for suits (wool or silk/linen blen), A. Testoni for shoes, and Patek for watches [had a BAD watch fetish at one time... and you think Ferrari cars are $$$(!) ].

    Generally pefer the classics, but do have a few more avant garde pieces from D&G.
     
  6. Admiral Thrawn

    Admiral Thrawn F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2003
    3,932
    I know the feeling! :D

    Same here.


    What do you think of the silk/linen blend for suits compared with wool?
     
  7. WILLIAM H

    WILLIAM H Three Time F1 World Champ

    Nov 1, 2003
    35,532
    Victory Circle
    Full Name:
    HUBBSTER
    Brioni makes awesome stuff

    I like Zanella for pants, you can get them at Nieman Marcus. they have dress pants made in ultra light denim. I have 2 pairs of their "Jeans" LOL
     
  8. cairns

    cairns Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2003
    504
    Potomac MD
    Full Name:
    George Williams
    Brioni? Zegna? What are you a bunch of frickin' haberdashers with an unlimted budget? Hart, Schaffner & Marx is just too lowbrow a brand for you snots, eh?

    Well Wax is on the right course but here's the ultimate wardrobe:

    Belts: See pants- not necessary and to be avoided unless pants are way too large (more than 1/2 crack showing on bendover) then see Wax for advice.

    Watches: Timex if you have to have one. Otherwise ask.

    Shoes: Converse- any color (except pink- see t-shirt note below) but be sure to run 'em over in the driveway a few times before wearing to ensure proper break in and fit.

    Pants: Overalls or jeans by Lee or Wrangler. Six or more years old provides ample elasticity and the correct patina.

    Shirts: Dark blue pocket T Shirts from Jockey or Hanes available at Kohls. Suitably stained with beer, grease, yard dirt and your own vomit or nose drippings. Rips and tears optional. Old AC/DC, Led Zeppelin, Rolling Stones or Ayrton Senna t-shirts are OK however KISS, Barry Manilow, Yanni and David Coulthard t-shirts are acceptable only if you are gay or deranged.
     
  9. Admiral Thrawn

    Admiral Thrawn F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2003
    3,932
    Hey, come on, what did you expect? This is Ferrarichat.com after all... If you have so much resentment for people with means, why on Earth are you a member of this forum? Although it puzzles me that you are criticizing those who choose to buy quality clothing, yet according to your profile you don't have any difficulty owning BMWs. By your reasoning, wouldn't a Honda or Toyota do the job just as well, or are they too lowbrow a brand, eh? ;)

    Judging by the rest of your post, you, like Wax, clearly don't appreciate the finer sartorial and horological things in life. Well that's fine; most people probably don't. That being so, there was no reason for you to post what you did in this thread, other than to antagonise.
     
  10. nwocorp

    nwocorp Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2003
    493
    australia
    i dont like ties or watches, i dont have to wear them so i dont.

    for the others i have some brand name stuff but i couldnt tell you what is what. I buy clothes in two ways, casual - get a couple of female friends buy them lunch and let them play dress up business - go to a proper store tell them i want something that looks good, is comfortable and i can wear without a tie
    it seems to work well particularly as my fashion sense = shirt with buttons or shirt without buttons
     
  11. Jay GT4

    Jay GT4 F1 Rookie

    Oct 16, 2001
    4,995
    La mamma dei fessi
    Full Name:
    e sempre incinta
    I've been wearing french cuff shirts for years, seems that cuff links have made a big comeback in the last little bit, but I hate how people wear the shirt with no links! As far as suits go, I like Gaberdine wool, I know it's a bit heavier then the super's but I like a suit that has a bit of weight to it. Shoes must be leather soled although my most comfortable pair of shoes are a pair of Rockports.

    My ties are all silk. My favorite is the one my wife just bought me for our 10th anniversary. See the pic below. Apparently they are hand made, sewn and are limited. Color is dark blue with a silver hand embroidered "Cavallino". Price was $200 and is outrageous for a tie...but I love it!
     
  12. cairns

    cairns Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2003
    504
    Potomac MD
    Full Name:
    George Williams
    James I was KIDDING! My t-shirts are not really festooned with vomit and nose drippings!

    I even own a Brioni, wear Ferragamos for dress exclusively and have plenty of Countess Maras (which seem to last forever) but most of my suits are HS&Ms. I don't buy pricey watches or jewelry though and wouldn't even if I had billions.
     
  13. jeffQV

    jeffQV F1 Rookie

    Feb 13, 2004
    2,976
    NZ
    Full Name:
    jeff
    My ties are all silk. My favorite is the one my wife just bought me for our 10th anniversary. See the pic below. Apparently they are hand made, sewn and are limited. Color is dark blue with a silver hand embroidered "Cavallino". Price was $200 and is outrageous for a tie...but I love it![/QUOTE]

    and to think I paid that for a Boss tie....robbed!
     
  14. Jay GT4

    Jay GT4 F1 Rookie

    Oct 16, 2001
    4,995
    La mamma dei fessi
    Full Name:
    e sempre incinta
    I buy most of my ties at Winner's (Canadian TJ Max), so I never pay more than $30 for Designer ties...DKNY,BOSS,CK...they're all there.
     
  15. UroTrash

    UroTrash Four Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Jan 20, 2004
    40,483
    Purgatory
    Full Name:
    Clifford Gunboat
    The Urologist dress code:

    Khakis.
    White shirt.
    Tie.

    Every day.

    EVERY day.

    Easily replaced when the inevitable happens.
     
  16. Tyler

    Tyler F1 Rookie

    Dec 19, 2001
    4,274
    dusty old farm town
    Full Name:
    Tyler

    I second that. Zanella pants are excellent for daily wear pants.
     
  17. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 6, 2002
    79,380
    Houston, Texas
    Full Name:
    Bubba
    The Ferrari silk ties are very nice. I have four or five.......

    Depends on the day's schedule:

    Normal day: Slacks/jeans and polo shirt (Horsie logo is prominent)

    Project Owner's Meeting: Dress shirt/tie & Dockers

    Wrongful Death via electrocution Lawsuit Deposition: Armani with Jerry Garcia "Dancing Bones" necktie......

    Case Dismissed!
     
  18. Ryan S.

    Ryan S. Two Time F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 20, 2004
    28,870
    undies - fruit of the loom or hanes.
     
  19. PeterS

    PeterS Five Time F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Jan 24, 2003
    52,117
    Goodyear, AZ
    Full Name:
    PeterS
    After visiting Hong Kong and Shanghai, I came away with a very tainted view of what we should pay for mens clothing. Beautiful wool suits in Shanghai for $90 US. Tailors that will make French Cuff dress shirts for $12 with 90-100 stitches per inch, extremely nice silk ties for $.80 each! 'Designers' go to multiple manufacturers to slap their label on the garment and laugh all the way to the bank. Granted they have quality standards, but there is no reason to pay extremely high prices when the same quaility suit hangs at the 3-Day Suit Broker for a fifth the price. Men's sales at Macy's usually will produce a great value for decent mens suits.
     
  20. lesterm

    lesterm Formula Junior

    Nov 3, 2003
    611
    Durham, NC
    Back when I had to look presentable everyday:

    Shoes: Gucci, Alden, Tods, Prada
    Shirts: Hilditch & Key, Zegna, Ike Behar, Prada (to a lesser extent)
    Suits: Boss, Zegna, Armani
    Ties: Chanel (i like the patterns, not necessarily quality), Ralph purple label
    Watches: JLC, Rolex, Blancpain

    Now that I can look like a schlub:
    Jeans
    Polo shirt's (collar down and untucked)
    flip-flops
     
  21. Kevallino

    Kevallino Formula 3

    Feb 10, 2004
    2,257
    Mid-Ohio
    Full Name:
    Kevin
    I'm in LA so we are "business casual" still. I have a few suits (I can't even remember who made them but sort of upper line Italian but below the Brioni/Kiton crowd) that I wear when I testify in depo/court, but otherwise it is nice trousers and shirts for my office wear. I, too, have a set of those Concorde cufflinks in sterling which are great, plus some vintage cufflinks as well.

    I have an Italian guy in Norton Street, Sydney who makes trousers for me, so whenever I'm there I just order a few more pairs. I have purchased shirts at both Baubridge & Kay and Herringbone in Sydney and Melbourne as the styling is a bit more "continental" than those in the US - in particular I wear shirts with a single cuff but set up for cufflinks, and wear those silk knots. Its casually dressy - not as fussy as a double (classic French) cuff. Thinking of having Ascot Chang here in LA make more for me just to get an even better fit and some other details.

    Ferragamo shoes, Cole Haan belts mostly (get 'em on sale at the outlets), I have several vintage Omega automatics from the '50s and '60s in the various metal/leather band combinations. Omega had great designs in the '50s bumper-wind watches, and of course the pie-pan Constellation, and aren't stupid-expensive so you can have several.

    Casual-wise, I have a couple dozen white RL oxford button-down shirts that I wear like other people wear t-shirts on the weekends, with jeans or RL cords if it is coolish, and a couple of sets of linens for the really hot days. Usually with the Speedmaster, although I am in the market for another chrono without the fly yellow dial....currently considering GPs and Eberhards.

    Somebody somewhere said you should have your own formal wear - I agree. Had one made for me awhile back in the classic style so it fits properly and isn't too "trendy". Also found a shop to make me a bow tie to my specific neck size so tie my own and no little adjustment thingies.

    Living outside of America for a while I was cured of the tennis shoe - I never wear them now.

    Have a wool/cashmere overcoat from London Fog for trips to cold places. Old Avirex leather bomber jacket that I throw in whenever we take a road trip.

    Best secret clothing tip - marygreen.com silk boxer-briefs and undershirts. They are worth every penny, and they have sales from time to time so you can get a bit of a deal. You will never wear cotton again after these.

    Cheers
    Kevin
     
  22. Admiral Thrawn

    Admiral Thrawn F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2003
    3,932
    Sorry Cairns. Sometimes it can be difficult to tell over the Internet whether or not someone is joking. No harm done! :)

    Awesome tie! Might have to get one of those. :D
     
  23. WILLIAM H

    WILLIAM H Three Time F1 World Champ

    Nov 1, 2003
    35,532
    Victory Circle
    Full Name:
    HUBBSTER
    I found some awesome Silver Cuff Links in DC. On 1 side there is a nice F1 car, on the other side is an oval with a checkerboard pattern
     
  24. cohiba_man

    cohiba_man Formula Junior

    Jan 23, 2003
    937
    Canada
    Full Name:
    John
    Why do you scrutinize every aspect of a suits construction? Stitch count? Crease location? Isn't that a little tedious? FWIW I find these threads pretty pretentious, really nothing more than an opportunity to talk about more of our expensive possessions.
     
  25. Admiral Thrawn

    Admiral Thrawn F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2003
    3,932
    Because it says everything about the suit's quality and fit. I don't find it tedious; it's just doing your homework before spending money on a particular product. Also those with an eye for detail are naturally curious about such things. It's about knowing how something is made, the reasoning behind each detail, which design features are better than others, and why. An appreciation for the art, in other words.

    Firstly, stitch count isn't considered, but rather how the garment is stitched. By hand, or by machine? Or at all; cheaper items of clothing are often fused, i.e. glued together. Not only does this feel stiffer and less comfortable to wear, but the garment doesn't drape as well, and the glue will eventually cause bubbling after numerous dry cleanings.

    As for creases... well, the less the better. They're not built into the garment, but rather caused by excessive folding and crumpling of the suit material, usually as a result of poor construction and/or fit. This is quite different to discussing the actual construction of the suit, which involves specifically cut pieces of fabric being sewn to one another.

    Well that really says more about you than the threads. Would you find threads discussing cheap possessions less offensive? Again, this kind of reasoning baffles me. Aren't you offended by this entire forum, considering the general purpose of it is to discuss Ferraris?
     

Share This Page