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Discussion in 'Maserati' started by gcmerak, Dec 15, 2008.
Let's get this thread rolling!
What is the best spark plug to use on a Merak SS. I have liked the NGK on some of my older cars but haven't had experience with Italian engines yet.
I have been looking at a couple of Merak SS and see one has added MDS ignition. I also would like to upgrade my car to an electronic ignition but would prefer to have it hidden so the car retains a vintage engine look. Any one done this and can give advice of what works and what doesn't.
I am using NGK BPR6ES currently. I was told that NGK BP5ES were the best to use. Also, I like the Irridium NGKs, haven't decided yet which way to go.
The SS has a Bosch electronic ignition and it works well. My guess is that the MDS was a replacement for a failing Bosch, or a better spark was needed. Somehow with the copper core wires, I don't think a stronger spark was the issue though.
I would like to know how prevalent is stock exhaust valve failure for the SS C114 here in the United States, given that the car has been driven on a regular basis? Thanks in advance for any help?
While I have things apart, does anyone have any thoughts for, or against ceramic coating [aluminium color of course] the intake manifold on the outside to reduce the inside air flow temperature? Also, how about honing out the intake runners as well, to a slippery smooth surface for better air flow. I noticed that the two metal gaskets [above and below the carb spacers] have a slightly smaller I.D. than the other I.D.s thereby restricting air flow into the manifold. Matching everything up ought to give me at least a .2 hp increase. LOL.
I'm looking at a Merak SS and the seller says it is having a few electrical issues. One was that when the brake is applied the heads lights come up. He plans on fixing but why would this happen. Also reading an old article on the Merak mentioned that they used to be known for having a few electrical issues. Is this true? What were the issues and how are they best resolved so they no longer happen?
Has anyone done any modernizing to the AC systems on their Merak's. Is this just a matter of converting to a modern refridgerant, or is there more to be done such as improved compressor and/or evaporators. I know vintage-air makes stuff for a lot of american cars, but I haven't checked to see if there is a modern upgrade system that would work on the Merak.
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The old R12 fluid is no longer legal and is very hard to find now so eventually switching over to R134 is going to be required if you still want to have air conditioning in the Merak in the future. The biggest problem with switching over from the old fluid, R12, to the new type of fluid, R134, is that the new fluid doesn't have as much heat removing potential. Normally, the recommendation is to have a condenser that is at least 20% larger to have the same effective cooling as before. The compressor can be cleaned and reused but the new fluid requires a different type of lubricant and the hoses have to be barrier type as the old hoses will leak the new fluid. In upgrading my Bora, which is quite similar to the Merak SS in terms of the condenser, I found that a condenser from a 1988 Jeep Cherokee fit in front of the radiator nicely and was 25% larger. When you get new hoses, you can go to a modern "o" ring type seal but you will have to pull out the evaporator/heater core and have new hose fittings brazed on to take "o" rings. You will also have to have a new evaporator valve but they are quite inexpensive. The factory compressor can have the hose fittings changed without having to get rid of the compressor. A good air conditioning shop should be able to set you up with everything you need and you will be able to service the air conditioning anywhere after the change over.
Ackmann - lots of times strange current flow results in strange behavior - ie a broken/compromised ground wire causing the reverse lights to light when the brake is on or the brake lights to brighten when the car is put in reverse... note the similarities - the lights are in the same location, common grounds/housings etc.
What you are saying is a circuit switch is actuated that controls a light at the other end of the vehicle (and nothing else) is effecting behavior at the opposite end of the car. Something of this nature sounds scary... like a mouse was living in the dash and there are exposed wires having NOTHING in common shorting out... can you find and pull the fuse for the headlight switch and put a meter in line with it - the only place these circuits come close to each other is the fuseblock - my manuals are at my shop - can you see if they are next to one another in the fuseblock?
I have a pile of parts - engine, transmission, glass, trim, suspension, brake, AC, cooling, etc from several vehicles. Interested parties drop me a reply.
Looking for Euro style bumpers and headers for a '77 SS
looking for an engine (Merak SS). To rebuilt or for parts. Make an offer
FWIW, I found that the base of the tube that you pour oil into has a curved down lip. The mating surface of the block should have a recessed area to accept that lip, but it doesn't. Consequently, there was always oil seepage at the base. It appears that Maserati placed a plastic spacer inside the base of that tube to align it correctly. When I took that tube off, the spacer was about to break apart and fall into the sump. I wonder how much the C114 would have liked that?
I checked the M1 site [as of 4/7/09].
The 0W-40 has 1100 ppm zinc and 1000 ppm phosphorus. The 15W-50 has 1300 ppm
zinc and 1200 ppm phosphorus.
I could do 5 quarts of one and 5 quarts of the
other to knock down the viscosity to a 7.5W-45, 1200 ppm of zinc and 1100 ppm of phosphorus.
The Merak SS specifies a 10W-50 oil. What do you all think?
So why wouldn't you just run the 15w-50?
You're worried about the 15?
Do run it in the winter?
Yes I do run it in winter. With the 0W-40 M1 start up oil pressure is 40 psi max. Then once warmed to operating temp. approx. At 180-185 F I have 30 psi@2000rpm, 40 psi@ 3000 rpm & 50 psi @ 4000 rpm. That looks like a correct ratio to me.
The start up pressures with 10W oils were a tad high @ 60-70 psi it puts a lot of stress on the C114 chains? Then at opperating temp. the engine runs at about 40 psi. Anyway 7.5W-45 sounds like a good option with a marginal down side if any.
I know it can get cold occaisionally there but winter in Georgia is not real winter.
If you were running the car a lot in the low 30s F then I might be concerned but probably not. Mixing your own oils to "obtain" a custom viscosity? I'm no oil engineer but that sounds more like vodoo than science. Besides, I think you're worrying about nothing. Just put some good quality oil in it, change it regularly and enjoy the car. My 2 cents.
I remember driving my Bora on a few very cold days (low 30s F) when the roads were perfect and it was miserable because the tires behaved very badly and made the car dart all over the place. I thought something had broken in the suspension. It was all tires and very wierd.
Looking for a spare 3.0 core engine, rebuildable also any condition, if I have to make one out of 2 or 3 - so be it.
The engine offered by Eurospares is a 2.7 liter engine, and thus a SM engine, not Merak. Re-built by the late Andrew Brodie though, so most likely among the best available.
Also seems that Eurospares asks for an exchange, so perhaps one has to offer them an engine in need of being re-build to be able to buy it.
It is for an SM, needs to be a 3.0, and here in the States.
It's for a friend in Calif., but I spend time near DC and SW Fla. also.