Metal in gearbox oil

I have had a chance to drop the oil out of my box after a total drive failure. The rear plug was drained first and found a number of metal pieces. Almost as many came out of the front drain plug. In total probably 50 small shavings. On close inspection looks like casing material and none of it would get attracted to the magnet on plug. Jacked up the rear wheel and can turn the wheel with some effort and looking in the rear drain hole the pinion etc looks fine. Would this be the result of quill shaft/propellor shaft failure rather than diff carrier failure. Even if it is not carrier failure I will replace it with the job. Does the box need stripping because of the metal etc. If it is the quill shaft can this be replaced with engine etc in car? Is it better to do a carrier with the diff in car to get the correct pre loads etc. thans for any input

 

Thanks Josh. Thats pretty much the plan that I am thinking. I would say the bits are probably from the left diff cover when the carrier broke and the action of the crown and pinion pushed it all sideways. It still puzzles me as to why I had no drive at all. I could select all gears and let out the clutch and go nowhere. Knowing my luck I have 2 problems!

 

Hi Paul, I thought the prop shaft or quill shaft was well supported on both ends and would probably not flail around enough to score the housing? I suppose at the end I am only guessing. Next week I will drop the engine and gearbox and split the box and engine to check for any damage. Either way while it is all apart I will replace the carrier with one of yours. worthwhile checking syncros etc while it is out. Just a shame I have only done about 500 miles since a major.

 

Thanks guys I have not had time to get into the job yet, other things have come up, but will take your logical suggestions and work through the easy tasks first. Even if it is the drive shaft I would still have a problem with not at least checking the box after the metal has been in there. While I am at it then a new carrier will give some peace of mind. Will keep everyone updated-

 

Hi all- have dropped both axles off and turned the diff by hand and could not feel any problem with the transaxle. All looks good through the drain hole with the ring gear and no noises that I would associate with a carrier failure. So now I suspect the drive or quill shaft and have taken the rear most cover off the clutch housing cover and found that I need an F tool to undo the nut at the end of the quill shaft. If I undo this I am not convinced that the quill shaft is accessible- so should I drop the case that contains the gears at the rear of the clutch to confirm the shaft failure?
I will still do the carrier with a Newman mod even if mine has not failled as I have thought long and hard of the other consequences of not doing the carrier!

 

Yes it does look the same and I hopefully will get some time in the near future to remove the bell housing. This will confirm the problem if it is the shaft. The only thing that still puzzles me is the casing material in the oil. If the shaft is snapped my understanding is that both ends are well held and no other damage is usually caused. Also the price of the shaft ( 1500 used to 3800 new) makes your bearing carrier look like great value. I will still get a carrier, but the way things are going there is no great rush so can I put my name down for one of the next batch?

 

Had a chance to drop the bell housing off and sure enough the drive shaft had sheared. The shear was close to the forward splines and a piece about 2inches long and about half the thickness of the shaft was missing. Luckily I fished around with a magnet and found the piece with a few other small bits with it. I then had difficulty getting something to grab what little was left of the shaft to pull it out. Finally had success with a taperred bit of plastic electrical conduit, Only problem was as the splines and coupling came towards the exit all the weight of the part was on my plastic tube-- you guessed it dropped down into the bottom of the diff! Bugger. I spent about 4 hours yesterday trying to get it out via various methods but all failled and I ended up loosing a magnet down there as well.
This am I had success with a strong Rare earth magnet and retrieved all the bits saving the process of dropping the engine out. I will post pictures soon..

 

Shamile you are the daddy...The pictures show the missing piece that obviously caused the damage that gave me case shavings and may have rubbed on the connecting sheath near the break. Looks like a straight forward job to get another shaft made up to 512/M spec- will let you know how it goes.
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