In my opinion the device isn't needed. Most dino's have the intake suction tubes (x2) from the inlet manifolds blanked off so it really renders the whole device as useless. Keep the unit in place so the carbs can draw in the crankcase vent fumes. Make sure you use a good heat resistant tubing on the inlet manifold tube nipples and get a really good seal to blank them off as any vac leak will cause havoc with idling. (what is effectively happening is that you are short circuiting the carb induction) block off the small tubes connectors on the valve body as well but not really necessary. If you want to fit a valve (disc) then find something of the same dia, but you will need the cage to hold it in place. Possibly easy to make one!
Thanks Tony. So block all inlets on the manifold, block two small connectors on the valve itself, but leave the valve in place. What about plugging the large hole in the valve that the disc and cage covers ? Or do I leave that open ? Skipp
leave that open as the carb induction will draw in crankcase & upper cam gases from the oil vapour pot on the firewall. NB- don't use silicone on any suction tubes a small bolt in some heat resistant tubing and tie wrap should do the trick. I found the clear cavis tubing used on the petrol lines does the job.
How about these ? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CO7AZM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Ferrparts show the cage available, part 106755. I made the disc for mine out of aluminum as the phenolic disc doesn't hold up well. Went to a machine shop that had a hole punch and went through their catch box till I found one of proper diameter and thickness.
Dino is now with Carrs and hopefully they will sort it out ASAP. Thanks for all your suggestions, which I have passed on to them.
As a first step, make sure each carb is getting proper fuel flow. You've just been through several countries, inconsistent fueling is possible. Perhaps check each carb inlet screen for contaminants. Here is the TAV , item #74. I have seen the fuel tank screen fail, allowing blockage to accumulate at the carb Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If it was fuel related then surely it would get worse as the revs rise ie starvation.? BB reports it clears above 4K
Yes, the higher the revs, the happier it is (but I can't go everywhere at 7,000+!), e.g. cruising at 4,500 in top, it will accelerate cleanly to overtake.
The Superformance replacement is a clone of the blue Bosch TSZ from the early seventies, the coil output and spark length is the same as a points and coil ignition which from my experience is not a sufficient set up for the Dino engine. Would advise to exchange it against a CDI ignition such as the one from Fred Winterburn or MSD 6 series if you want to keep the points setup, or do the Bosch conversion with optical pickups. If you want to keep the Superformance setup, you might want to at least install NGP BPR7EIX spark plugs to reduce fouling and help with hot and cold starts. Happy to help, you'll find the ignition wiring charts for all Dino 206/246 variations on www.dinoplex.org. If you want to do install a Winterburn ignition, let me know the year and type (EU, US) of your car and i'll draw something up.
My car is back and going like a good'un. Seems the problem was part fuel, part ignition. All jets etc. cleaned out and it was better, but not perfect. Now the part I don't quite understand. Something to do with the wiring to the second set of points in the distributor was amiss. Harvey did explain it to me, but I got a little lost somewhere along the way! Anyway, whatever it was, he has fixed it and it is performing beautifully: it will even pull smoothly (if not very enthusiastically) from 2,000 in 5th. Noise from exhaust was down to a cracked mounting bracket, so unconnected. Now sorted. I am a happy bunny!
Thatks great! Sounds like what I had mentioned. Broken wire to the points connecting intermittently as their position is changed by vacuum or mechanical advance.
