Model Paint

Tamiya spray paint, only kind I use and it's amazing. Just put down a good primer coat and then go over with whatever color you want.

 

Ditto. I think the closest to TDF blue will be mica blue; it depends on the base coat you put down.

 

Messing up paint because of heat?
Never experienced that before.

Spraypaint works best around 20degr. celsius

On larger models 1/18 and so on, its no problem to use spraycans.
Just buy carpaint, any cheap stuff never works....... or use the Tamiyasupplies.

The start of a good paintjob is the preparation.
It needs to be very clean (no paintresidu, no spots, no dust).
Clean it with aceton(only on metal models) to make sure the surface isn'tleft with any grease (or fat).
Spray primer in a few thin coats.
Rather have 6 coats of thin paint, than 1 thicker coast with risks of dripping or losing detail.
Take a few minutes between the paintlayers
It takes 3/4 layers to get the primer cover the model.
Let it rest for at least 24 hours to be sure its all dried and settled!
Rub it when necessary with very light sandpaper
Then apply 6 or more thin coats of colorpaint (color covers after 3 or 4 coats)
Let it rest for another 24 hours.
Do the same procedure with clearcoat.
If in any of the stages the paint will have a matt finish....leave it to rest.

After the clearcoat has dried ( I will wait for at least 2 or 3 days).
Use a rubbing compound and wax it up to shiny finish.

Remember 1 thing. Take your time....
(even after 20 years of building, I now and then mess up.......

 

I've tried only once, but I think this would be best piece of advice. I thought it would be a quick job and rushed the painting. I just wanted to see the final effect and couldn't wait the few hours between each layer of paint to dry properly. Now I have to do it all again.

 

This is so true. Rushing the dry time is a good way to get a big thick coating of wrinkled glop that will seemingly never dry out enough to finish sand & polish.

I suggest two more things:

1. Don't mix the brand of paint (let alone the type - i.e. acrylic, lacquer, etc).

2. Make it a goal to own an airbrush and a nice clean oilless compressor. If you can't get one now, maybe you could ask your hobby shop guys if some kind soul would let you have an instructional session with theirs, and help you with this project.

PS - did anybody have any suggestions on surface prep for a prefinished die-cast? My experience is with plastic & balsa...

 

You may want to consider Zero Paints: http://www.zero-paints.co.uk/

I've not used them myself but quite a few pro-builders do. They make paint that the actual auto makers use! (They have paint just for FXX colours)

 

I think you have at least 51% of the battle won if you "really want to do a good job and make it look really good". That attitude will eventually get you where you want to go.

As far as the garage, thats where I paint (I have a shop in what could have been a third car stall). But, mine is sealed pretty good and I don't open it up to the blowing sand, or paint on rainy humid days. And, I keep the car cover on the real Ferrari. Wearing a mask so you don't breathe the paint, huh?

If you don't have a paint booth, you will have to improvise with some kind of enclosure, and make provisions to protect the wet paint from falling dust and lint of your model. I don't much like cardboard boxes for this, as they shed a lot of particles all on their own - but taping on some aluminum foil can cut down a lot on that and it also gives good light reflection.

Again, best of luck - at least with metal, you could conceivably strip it all off and try again if at first you do not succeed...

 

Actually, Zero paint makes other Ferrari colours as well: http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48_77&products_id=985

I have a few of their colours at home, but I have not yet used them. I routinely use lacquers, urethanes, and enamels mixed with lacquer thinner. I always use Plasticote white primer (T237) as a base.
I finish off with a lacquer clear - and yes, even over decals.

http://public.fotki.com/VRM/model_cars/for_leon/dscn0371.html shows some 1/43 Astons in various stages of painting. The Project 215 car is urethane, the DB3S is lacquer, and the DBR9 is enamel with lacquer thinner.

This Italeri 250 GT SWB is auto lacquer over plastic.
http://public.fotki.com/VRM/model_cars/my_model_cars/my_pictures0928.html

I've written sort of a step by step for building a Z8 that includes some basic painting: http://www.masscar.com/Online_builds/DeVaux_BMW_Z8/part_one/devaux_bmw_z8.htm Please pardon the slightly fuzzy pics - digital cameras were not always what they are now.

I also never paint on a humid day, or any day where the temp is above 65-70f. The key is about keeping the surface to be painted as clean as possible. Always wash your hands with soap before touching a something about to be painted. You can sand out any imperfections and polish.

Try a micromesh polishing system, too.

Hope that helps,
Steve

 

Oh, with Plasticote primer, if you don't like what you did you can soak it in Westlys Bleech White (tyre white wall cleaner) for a couple of days and the primer disolves. You might have to make some light scratches in the paint to get to the primer, but the paint will eventually all flake off. This works with both resin and plastic, with no harm to either. It will also remove chrome from plastic model parts.

Steve

 

If you use the Tamiya spray cans, let them sit in a pot of hot water for about 10-15 minutes before you start and between coats. The warmer paint will spray and lay down better than colder paint, and you will get a nice smooth finish without all the orange peel.

 

Good advice here on this thread.

I've gotten the best results with Tamiya lacquers in rattlecans ...infinitely easier to use than spray enamels, but still requires some practice and finesse.

Warming up paint is a good idea, and I'll usually waste a can on a scrap body shell to get in practice before doing the real thing...worth it.