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430 Mods to my 430

Discussion in '360/430' started by Ray Smith, Dec 29, 2020.

  1. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    #1 Ray Smith, Dec 29, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2020
    2007 Coupe F1 5,272 miles
    Serial # 151797 Assy # 69244
    Rosso Corsa/Tan
    Daytona Power Seats Driver & Passenger
    Carbonio Carbon Fiber Scuderia Shift Paddles
    Carbonio F430 Front License Plate Mount
    Yellow Tach
    Capristo Exhaust Brackets
    Scud Ing Rear LED Light Kit
    Scud Ing CHMSL with Flasher ECU
    Scud Ing Smart Turn Signal ECU
    Scud Ing DRL Light Kit
    Scud Ing Smart DRL Controller
    Scud Ing Advanced eMT F1 Relay
    Scud Ing Smart E-Diff Solenoid Valve Tester ECU SEST
    Xpel Ultimate PPF (entire car)
    Clear Plex Windshield Film
    All incandescent bulbs replaced with LEDs
    Pioneer NEX3500 Infotainment System w/Apple Car Play
    Rear Camera
    KD40 Radar Detector Laser Detector/Disruptor
    Scud Ing CAN BUS
    Ecliptech Shift P2+ Display
    Scud Ing Clear Side Lights
    Fabspeed Headers with Fabspeed heat blankets
    Updated F1 Hydraulic Block
    Stainless Steel Brake Lines w/Motul brake fluid
    New F1 accumulator
    F1 filled with Liqui Moly Hydraulic fluid
    Ricambi 430 Dead Pedal
    Odyssey Batteries 34R-PC1500T
    CTEK (56-959) MUS 4.3 TEST&CHARGE 12 Volt Fully Automatic Charger and Tester
    CTEK (56-382) Comfort Indicator Eyelet
    Audew Upgraded Car Jump Starter, Jump Box 2000A Peak 20000mAh Battery Charger
     
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  3. Sj_engr

    Sj_engr Karting

    Sep 15, 2020
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    What is the updated F1 block?
     
  4. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 World Champ
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    i dont have any scud ing stuff on any of my cars...feel like ive been missing out....
     
  5. ShineKen

    ShineKen F1 Veteran
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    Pics would be nice :)
     
  6. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    The squarish dark colored block that F1 bleed nipple number 1 comes out of. It is prone to stress cracks that cause F1 pressure leaks. It was replaced starting with assy numbers above 72730.

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  8. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    Ricambi sells the upgraded Hill Engineering part which can be found at https://www.ricambiamerica.com/196918-block.html

    If you're in the UK the same part can be found at https://www.hillengineering.co.uk/-by-part-no-/196918

    This upgrade was recommended by Stef at SIS Scud Ing to further strengthen the F1 system.

    Ray
     
  9. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    Of what?

    Ray
     
  10. Enzo Sebastian

    Enzo Sebastian Karting
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    Perhaps a NOOB-question, but could any of you tell me exactly what the Scud Ing parts exactly do? Is it a different kind of monitoring?

    I did a test drive in a F430 a year ago that had a Scud Ing F1 Relay, some kind of block with flashing lights that was beeping - or maybe it wasn't, I forgot. The F430 I purchased, somewhere else, had a faulty PIS (?) sensor in the F1 transmission literally 3 days after picking up the car haha. A friend of mine, also with a F430, told me that he really wants some Scud Ing upgrades regarding the F1 transmission, he says 'it makes him sleep better'.

    However, in life, could you tell me how this practically works? I'm quite a technical guy in the medical field, but I don't really understand the website's explanations regarding what it does.. Help would be appreciated!
     
  11. Sj_engr

    Sj_engr Karting

    Sep 15, 2020
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    F1 relay. Go read their website. I have one sitting in the desk. My F1 already feels safer.
     
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  13. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    Go to https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/17-my-ferrari-solutions

    He offers products that increase visibility, provide warnings of problems, and add convenience features to the cars.

    His products are brilliant. Well engineered and well manufactured, and they customize your car the way you want it. The only two I do not yet have are the engine bay lighting kit, and the interior lighting kit. And they are on my to do list.

    All of his products consume far less power than the OEM equipment.

    Ray
     
  14. nickorette

    nickorette Karting
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    Great thread! Didn't even know about the brake lines and F1 block, going to look into or next service.

    Here's my list:
    2005 F1 Coupe Grigio Titanio, CCB, purchased spring 2018
    MPS4S Tyres
    AGM Deep Cycle Battery
    Changed Tach from Red to Yellow
    Bespoke Leathering leather dye (fixed seat wear)
    Scud Inc F1 Relay
    Paint Correction, PFF and Ceramic whole car
    Forza Exhaust Remote
    All incandescent bulbs replaced with LEDs
    Capristo Exhaust Brackets

    Following were replaced during service/during purchase so far
    Spark Plugs
    E-Diff Solonoids
    Accumulator
    F1 Pump
    F1 Actuator
    Engine Mounts
    RR Wheel bearing
    Front Upper & Lower Ball Joints (Hill Engineering)
    Rear Lower Ball Joints (Hill Engineering)
     
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  15. RedTaxi

    RedTaxi Formula 3
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    F1 block? My manual car has one too.
     
  16. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    That's because you have an E-Diff which has a solenoid that is driven by the F1 plumbing ...
     
  17. SingleClutch

    SingleClutch Karting

    Apr 19, 2019
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    Of your F430 I'm pretty sure ;)
     
  18. RedTaxi

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    Is the block not just for the clutch bleed? No F1 fluid (E-diff fluid) going there in a manual car?
     
  19. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    No, it's one of two points for bleeding/flushing the F1 fluid. There is a third bleed nipple for the E-diff. The difference in your manual clutch version is simply the lack of clutch/gear actuators. The E-diff solenoid carries fluid from the F1 system for activating the E-diff clutches.

    Ray
     
  20. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    My F430, assembly number 69244, has the F1 hydraulic part number 196918. Later Ferraris after assembly numbers after 72730 (Y 08) have part number 235706. Ricambi America sells both parts by Hill Engineering redesigned and manufactured to resist stress cracks which allow air intrusion into the F1 system.

    Here is a photo of my F1 block. Note that it does NOT have a heat shield despite it's close proximity to the exhaust pipe. In this case they are Fabspeed headers with blankets. View NGSC Dan's video on flushing the F1 fluid and stop it at the 05:28 mark and see him remove the heat shield and if you keep viewing you will notice he has block number 235706.
     

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  21. Ray Smith

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    Obviously replacing this should be followed by bleeding the F1 system since air will enter the system when the fittings are loosened.

    I took the opportunity of replacing the stock part with the Hill Engineering part, and flushing all the ATF fluid out of the system and replacing it with Liqui Moly hydraulic fluid. By starting the car while on the Quick Jacks and selecting gears (it will only let you do 1st and Reverse) and then using the X-431 Torque to cause the car to shift into all the gears, and by allowing the car to accelerate to cause the E-diff fluid to circulate there is a better chance of purging ALL the old ATF fluid and circulating the hydraulic fluid. The same is true of the F1 actuator. Remember to start bleeding at bleed valve (union) number 1 on the chassis near the F1 reservoir.

    While the diffuser and under tray were off I decide to replace the Gearbox oil and filter. Ricambi sells the complete kit with all necessary crush washers and the O-ring for the filter.

    Here is a photo of the old filter. I believe the white stuff trapped in the filter is sealing compound from the gearbox rear cover. Apparently the excess gets squeezed into the internals when the cover is torqued.
     

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  22. Ray Smith

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    In order to refill the system I used a Motive Power Filler. With the car LEVEL on the Quick Jacks almost all of the old oil drains. Slightly raising the front end (by using multiple blocks in the Quick Jacks) you can ensure the oil is directed to the drain plug. Raising only the rear causes the drain plug to be higher than the gearbox sump. You can put 3.5L of 75W-90 into the filler unit, attach your shop air (or pump the handle) and open the valve and you don't need any Rube Goldberg funnel extensions to get the new oil in.

    Ray
     

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  23. Ray Smith

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    Using F1 bleed valves ONE and TWO (#1 in this case, although you should start with #2 if you're not changing to the upgraded hydraulic block) I bled the system refilling it with Liqui Moly Hydraulic Fluid to flush out the ATF that is a factory fill. To be safe I ran three full liters through the system, shifting gears using the X-431 Torque to select all the gears. This helps ensure that the F1 actuator receives new fluid, and accelerating and shifting gears helps force it into the E-DIff.

    To be safe I bled the E-Diff using Stef's SEST tool in conjunction with the Advanced Smart eMT F1 Relay in maintenance mode.

    Quite a bit of work, but since none of this was performed by the previous owner it was long overdue. It's worth the piece of mind.

    Ray
     
  24. Ray Smith

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    I will be posting today on replacing brake pads, installing stainless steel brake lines to prevent bulging, and replacing the factory fill brake fluid with Motul. I will include photos and list of tools.

    I neglected to mention that there is a valve designed to relieve pressure in the F1 system for the purpose of replacing components. I'll post a photo of it showing it's location. You attach a tube and catch bottle to it just as if you were bleeding. Fluid does escape until the pressure reaches zero. At that point it is safe to remove lines. Be careful since the line pressure approaches 800 psi when fully pressurized.

    Ray
     
  25. Ray Smith

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    I'm beginning to think that the change from part #196918 to part #235706 and the addition of the heat shielding was in response to high heat causing the F1 fluid to boil, creating air bubbles which are compressible, unlike the liquid hydraulic fluid. This is similar to brake fade which occurs when the fluid boils producing air which is not compressible.

    I'm thinking of devising a heat shield for the older style hydraulic block. I would use the same heat shielding Ferrari uses unless I can do some research and come up with better shielding. The trick will be in properly securing the heat shielding. It's now obvious to me that the change to part #235706 was made to facilitate the addition of the heat shielding. If you notice in Super Car Guy's video it folds over the lines and is secured with two metal snaps. That will not work with the older hydraulic block.

    The part number for the heat shield is 241691 and apparently no one stocks it, and several vendors have advised Ferrari no longer sells it. I tried Exotic Auto Recycling, but no F430 with that part has been totaled.

    Does anyone know of a suitable type of heat shielding? I can install the snaps, that's fairly simple with the correct tool and snaps.

    Any pointers appreciated.

    Ray
     
  26. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    Here are photos of hydraulic block 196918 (left in all photos) and hydraulic block 235706. MANY thanks to Daniel at Ricambi America for assistance with this issue.
     

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  27. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    When flushing the F1 system of ATF and refilling with Liqui Moly hydraulic fluid the process is aided by the fact that ATF is RED while the Liqui Moly is GREEN. When the output steam changes color you know you have expelled all the old fluid.

    Ray
     
  28. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
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    Here is a photo of the gearbox oil change kit from Daniel at Ricambi America.
     

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