Hi everyone, I have undertaken the task of replacing the airbag wheel with a Momo hub/boss kit and Momo steering wheel on my beloved '96 Berlinetta. Having successfully removed the airbag and wheel, removed the 3 screws from the factory hub which hold what I believe is part of the airbag cabling and horn power on its back side (it is branded Alfa Romeo and has a long ribbon cable inside it from what I've seen in other threads). I have also removed the large central nut which holds the hub on the shaft. And here my progress ground to a halt. Unlike the Hills Engineering solution which adapts the original hub with a 4 bolt adaptor, the Momo solution replaces the factory hub in its entirety. Question 1: the Momo hub does not appear to accommodate the cable unit (if that is what is I can refer to it as) so...does it get removed it and if so how? How do I then power the horn as it seems to contain the wore for this also? Question 2: It appears that this cabling unit has two pins/teeth on its inner shaft which I am taking a guess cancels the indicators? The replacement Momo hub does not have these two pins. Am I right and if so how can this be? Question 3: I want to be able to reverse this wheel replacement if I need to so don't wish to permanently cut or severe any airbag components. Is this possible with the Momo hub solution? Any tips on how I can progress from here would be greatly appreciated. I have attempted to search the forum for an answer (of which there are many threads) but have not found what I am looking for so please be gentle on me. Regards, Daisy.
Let's see some photos of what you are dealing with. I went with the Hill Engineering hub sold at Ricambi for both my '95 Berlinetta and also '98 challenge car. It is a quick plug and play system that I recommend. It fits both momo and OMP wheels. It cost a whopping $120 Looks great. I would go that route and make it easy on yourself. Robb
Hi Robb, Thanks for your reply. I have seen you have been involved in such discussions before! I have reassembled the car just now as I needed to move the yellow terror, so I won't have relevant photos just yet. I have found an image taken by another party that encountered a similar scenario. This shows the back side of the 'cable unit' I am referring to and also its two teeth on the main shaft. Also, a rather poor photo of the rear facing Momo hub taken on my coffee table. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Any suggestions out there? I would love to get the new wheel on for a last drive before winter closes in here in Sweden.
Hello bud. I fitted mine and had the same problem. The momo boss does not come drilled with the three holes for the plastic ribbon cable but you do need to fit it. On the casting of the momo boss you will see three circles actually in the casting. You need to drill these to get the ribbon case to fit. It's actually not hard at all and took me about 15 minutes. No photos though I'm afraid. One tip is to make sure that ribbon goes back in equall lock to lock otherwise you won't get full steering lock to lock.
Also did you get the little inline fuse to run in place of the air bag? You need this otherwise your airbag light will stay on.
I used a small drill piece inside the boss first in the middle of the 3 circles. Drilled all the way through. Then flip it over and from the back use a drill bit big enough that the plastic locators on the ribbon case can slide into. Obviously do not drill all the way through this side. Only deep enough for the ribbon case to sit flush against the boss. Then flip it back round and put your three screws back in. This means all your factory stuff is still available to go back to standard.
Hi Mark, Thank you so much for your reply. I did see those three circle marks on the Momo boss and thought it odd that the holes were not drilled. I made the assumption that the boss was suited only for racing applications where the ribbon case and horn power connection does not apply. I wasn't comfortable with the removal of the ribbon casing for a road car and had read on this forum more than one story about the ribbon case falling open and people cutting the ribbon. Not something I wanted to entertain. At the time, I didn't actually believe the ribbon casing and the Momo boss could be made to work in unison. Accepting defeat, I ordered the Hill Engineering adaptor which is a much simpler solution. Are those teeth/pins I referred to in 'question 2' part of the indicator self-cancelling? Did you find any issues with this? And yes, I will use the resistor supplied with the boss so the airbag light doesn't trigger. Good to know the boss can be used though even if I have the Hill adaptor coming! Again, thank you for your reply. Greatly appreciated. Dayan.
Yes they are the indicator self cancel pegs. There are two cut outs for them when the boss slides back over the coloum. The plate does tend to turn so keep your fingers on it to ensure they stay lined up. If the boss doesn't seat all the way don't force it. Check the alignment. Mark
Update: Momo Mod 78 leather wheel installed with Hills Engineering adaptor and Snap Off quick-release hub (appreciate the extra spacing that brings the wheel closer). Momo supplied resistor worked as hoped with no airbag light illumination. Quite a change in the feel of steering the car. Both firmer and more direct, yet lighter. Now it feels more like I am driving a Ferrari! A definite improvement. Thank you to Robb and Mark for the tips. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The quick release unit is a Swedish brand called 'Snap Off'. It uses 3 pins to locate the wheel in position and then two spring-loaded shafts to lock the wheel. It is solid with no flex or movement. Still to work out how to sort the 'quick release' horn. At the moment the horn button is directly wired to the factory cables.
Dayan, I think you're referring to the Tekniq Snap Off Street Quick-Release pictured below. It's a nice system and not prone to wear and resultant steering wheel play. The MOMO Mod 78 in the size you chose is a fine steering wheel for the F355. I have its predecessor in my F355 Challenge with an older splined quick-release. I'm not sure how you can get your horn to be "quick-release" too. Perhaps Tekniq's Snap Off Quick Release Horn Button Adapter Plate will work. In my car, I have the horn (a reproduction Plymouth Road Runner horn) wired to the door unlock switch on the console. The electrical locking mechanism was removed years ago when the car raced. Barry . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Barry, The one I have is similar yes, but not the same. It has the plastic centre piece (similar to the red unit photographed) which fits into the boss-mounted plate, but how the power then connects up to the horn button power connector I've yet to resolve. I have however woken up the entire neighbourhood with the horn locked on for an unsociably long period of time... I will take some photos to illustrate when I get home. One point to note with the Hill Engineering part is that it comes with a fine lip which centres the steering wheel when it is bolted up. This prevents a flush mount condition with the quick release unit as it creates a 3mm approximate offset. Either I will grind it off or have a spacer made.
