Mondial 8 Starting Problems | FerrariChat

Mondial 8 Starting Problems

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by DougS026, Jan 29, 2006.

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  1. DougS026

    DougS026 Formula Junior

    Oct 4, 2005
    325
    Long Island, NY
    Full Name:
    Doug S
    I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. The car turns over and starts but only for a second and then just dies. It won't stay running. It tries to climb in the revs for the cold start, then nothing. I though it might be the air flow switch cutting off the fuel pump. I shorted the switch but it didn't help. I've checked the fuses and relays.

    A few other odd things have been going on as well. The problem started a few weeks ago. I would get the car started and run it, then it would just die and I'd have to wait 10 minutes before it would catch again. One time while I was driving the revs went to 3k on their own. I couldn't get the revs down so I shut the car off. I had to let the car sit for 10 minutes before it would start again as it just kept trying to catch but wouldn't stay on. I also noticed that whenever the problem occurs, the windows and sunroof won't work (everything else does.) The only way to get the windows to work when having the starting problem is to put them up or down while cranking the motor over.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
     
  2. andrewg

    andrewg F1 Rookie
    BANNED

    Sep 10, 2002
    4,667
    Chester, England
    Full Name:
    AndrewG
    You may want to check the connection in the fuse box in the front...could be a dirty connection (cheap fixes first :D)
     
  3. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,856
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
    Full Name:
    Steve W.
    Couple of basic suggestions. First, check the battery and battery connections, especially the ground on the battery's negative side. If you still have that stupid battery switch in line, remove it and run a NEW battery cable from the negative directly to the grounding point on the chassis. Be sure to clean the grounding point really thoroughly, same for the negative terminal. It wouldn't hurt to replace the positive side either. Remove the battery and take it to a local store that has an automated battery tester to be sure that it's us to snuff, holding a full charge, and no bad cells. If it's not 100%, buy a new one, properly sized. This is not the place to cheap out, buy a good quality battery.

    Next, as suggested, check the fuse box and various connections. Make sure all connectors are clean and solidly connected.

    Check the cable from the battery to the starter. I believe on the 8 there is a mid-cable connector somewhere near the back. Make sure that connection is good, as well as the connection on the starter, especially the ground.

    Check the connection on the digiplex units. Try pulling them and spraying electrical connector cleaner on them and working them on and off a couple of times to be sure they are clean and secure. Check the wires to the coils, the coil to distributor wires, etc. Pull the distributor caps and make sure your rotors are in good condition, and that connections and rotor contact points are clean. Make sure distributor caps are not cracked.

    Tracing down all the electrical connections should help sort the problem. Don't assume it's one thing. I found on my Mondial QV it was an accumulation of several bad connections and weak battery that caused starting problems for me.

    Hope that helps,
    Steve
     
  4. Matt Morgan, "Kermit"

    Matt Morgan, "Kermit" Formula Junior

    Nov 12, 2003
    405
    Ferndale, WA
    #4 Matt Morgan, "Kermit", Jan 29, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Steve is right, there is a "quick disconnect" on the battery cable mounted to the subframe on the drivers side. They are a plastic part, and like all plastic stuff, it can get brittle with age.
    I would look at possibly fuel filters as a problem. You can pull the feed line from the fuel distributor, and check for flow. Use care here, as the pump will put out a lot of fuel, and it can get dangerous if not prepared for it. A helper cranking the motor for a second and shutting it off is a good way.
    The Mondy 8's have the same gremlins on the electrical side of the fuel pump as the 3x8's do. I like to add a second relay, at the pump (see pic). Run a line from the battery cable@ the starter for power, and use the old wire from the dash relay to energise the new relay. This gives you a good power source, and as the stock lead is what turns it on and off it works just like the OEM one. The relay needs very little power to energise so there is very little draw on the original one.Never a problem with low voltage on the pump circut from then on. Works well with 308's too.
    Sometimes the air door is out of adjustment, and as you are cranking, it doesn't pull down enough to start fuel flow. With the air cleaner off, watch as it is being cranked. It hsould pull down slightly. If it doesn't check for vacuum leaks. The K-Jetronic doesnt like "false air" which is any air that does not pass thru the flapper. A smal vacuum leak can prevent the air door from being pulled down and starting the fuel flow.
    The fast idle problem is most likely caused by a second AAV, a problem that can drive ya nuts. The Mondy 8 uses a standard Auxiliary Air Valve, and they also have a second air valve that is mounted on the same line. It is activated by an electrical current. I have seen these open and close seemingly for no reason and when open the idle will run about 3000RPM.
    You can plug the second one of and still get a very usable warm up. it just wont rev so high. I never did like a high idle on a cold motor anyway.
    HTH
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  5. DougS026

    DougS026 Formula Junior

    Oct 4, 2005
    325
    Long Island, NY
    Full Name:
    Doug S
    Thanks guys. You've given me plenty of tips to start working with.
     

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