Mondial DigiPlex MED 801A Testing

Yeah what I was trying to say is that in proper operation I believe the fuel injectors should be closed with fuel pump running and ignition on unless/until we start cranking (or to your point the air flow meter pushes the plunger down). Larry Fletcher at CIS just rebuilt and tested in June the fuel distributor and the plunger/air flow meter so they should be good - but I will definitely check that today or tomorrow.

 

Well, maybe a lesson if anybody reads these posts in the future. Steve you were right about the plunger but I believe we created the issue. After CIS did the WUR we reinstalled the fuel distributor including setting the mixture screw. but at that point we didn’t know that we had no check valve. Then we installed the check valve but we didn’t retest, then I ran the fuel pump and filled the dang ports all the way into the intake with fuel. I pulled all the injectors and they were all spraying when I turned the pump on. It occurred to me that the check valve may have thrown off the pressures so I turned it counter clockwise two whole turns. Injectors immediately stopped spraying. Pressures are now measuring perfect. Lesson: if you install a check valve, recheck your mixture screw and pressures! Waiting for my rebuilt AAV but I’m hopeful maybe this engine will finally run without stalling and restart….

one question - I’ve removed all the visible excess fuel from the injector ports with a turkey baster and everything looks dry now. Do we think I can crank it without removing the plenum and cleaning inside the intakes or is that not smart?

 

Just make sure that you can rotate the crankshaft by hand before spinning the engine with the starter (to confirm the cylinders are not hydro-locked). You might want to smell/change the oil.

Don't follow you well here at all -- if you mean that you had to unscrew the mixture screw two turns to reduce the Plunger deflection and that stopped fuel from coming out of the injectors with just the fuel pump running = OK that makes sense, but the check valve has nothing to do with the pressures.

 

Sorry, was typing too fast. Yes that is exactly what I meant - I unscrewed the mixture screw two turns to reduce plunger deflection. Didn't do anything with check valve. (although now I need to test that new check valve as system pressure isn't holding after turning off the fuel pump as long as I think it should...) Will also need to probably re-calibrate the mixture screw using the CIS-recommended procedure but need to get the engine fully running to do that. thanks!

 

Steve - our dash does actually have that light (I’d call it orange). We have finally gotten the car running and driving! (So many issues this thread started with were related to just the ignition switch after all). But there’s a weird thing we can’t figure out. The car idles really nicely around 1200 RPM from cold start. We disconnected and closed the cold start air valve per the Birdman procedure he has on his website. But when the thermotime switch clicks closed and the orange light goes off, the car immediately rises to about 2000 RPM. But it shouldn’t be changing at all I thought because we bypassed the cold start valve switch. It’s definitely happening exactly when the orange light clicks off - is there something else that also works off that light?

 

Hi - another update. We got a used ignition switch from an F355 from Exotic Auto Recycling as recommended on some other threads. To install it we had to remove the electrical back part and marry it to the mechanical Mondial part. We also had to put the wiring together into the connector piece. The car starts up great now and switches off properly. BUT when we turn the car off (and take the key out), the electrical seems to stay on as if the key is in position 2. This only happens after turning the car on, ie, so if we unplug the entire switch the power goes off and plug the switch back in and it does not turn power to position 2. But then turn the car on and off and it’s stuck again in position 2 power. Did we wire it wrong or there’s something wrong with the electrical in the switch we bought?

please let me know if people think I should post in a new thread for this.