Mondial sill rust | FerrariChat

Mondial sill rust

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by Paulmendit, Mar 5, 2024.

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  1. Paulmendit

    Paulmendit Rookie

    Feb 26, 2024
    36
    Full Name:
    Paul Coles
    I've started the light restoration on my 1984 QV, and so far I've not found too much of the dreaded rust. The sills are the only areas where I've found a significant problem, with the driver's side being much worse.
    It looks as if the stainless sill covers have trapped water under them at each end, which has led to the rust. There's localised surface rust around each of the screw holes as well. I've got a cheap Ebay borescope and had a look inside, and it looks ok, with just a small area of surface rust in 2 places (where the big holes are).

    I'm planning on sanding the rust down as far as I can, filling the screw holes (I'll use tape to secure the sill plates, and glue the stainless screw heads in place) then applying rust killer, before priming and painting. I'm also going to apply a liberal amount of cavity wax. I know the gold standard would to be replace the entire sill, and I've seen the very good thread on this, but for now I localised repair will have to do.

    Looking for a bit of advice about what to do with the 2 bad arears at each end (see photos). I'm thinking of cutting out a playing card sized section and replacing the metal, having seen some posts it seems the metal is very thin and non-structural. Do I go with welding, or can it be bonded?

    Finally, if bonding, any product recommendations, or if welding - has anyone had any experience of the cheap stick welders that are on Ebay for £50. I did a bit of MIG welding a few years back and am thinking of trying one of these as the low power is sufficient for my needs.

    Cheers
    Paul
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  2. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido F1 Rookie
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jan 21, 2004
    2,643
    Argent/Brasil
    Full Name:
    Guido
    Please remove the carpets on the inside of the sills !
    Look under the roofing kind of isolation on the floor section in the lower corner.
    Also the big metal beams under the seats are prone to rust.
    The section between floor and vertical part of your footrest in the corner, those small strips are very fragil and thin.
     
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  3. Paulmendit

    Paulmendit Rookie

    Feb 26, 2024
    36
    Full Name:
    Paul Coles
    Thanks for the advice - the seats are coming out for a good clean and conditioning treatment, and so are the carpets - so I don't set fire to them!
    I'll have a good look round for any further sigs of corrosion then.
     
  4. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,948
    Isle of man- uk
    Best to get it cut out and replaced, bear in mind the vertical is structural as it supports the roof , I was lucky with mine as I removed the stainless covers just to have a look to find surface rust, painted and sills filled with Waxol under seal.
    We then covered the painted covered sill in black bituminous paint as unseen.
    When refitting the sill plates I bolted them in place into AVK inserts in the sill, rather than sicking them down, allows water to drain away.
     
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  5. Paulmendit

    Paulmendit Rookie

    Feb 26, 2024
    36
    Full Name:
    Paul Coles
    Great idea about the AVK inserts - I never thought as them to secure the sill plate, and as you say a better option in respect of drainage.

    I've opened up the holes a little more, poked around with borescope again and am relived to see it the deep rust is fairly localised, I've got a MIG welder being delivered next week, so the dremel will be out to cut and clean up the affected metal, before welding in a couple of patches.

    I was thinking of using Waxoyl underbody spray under the sill plates, in the hope that any trapped water in future won't get to the metal.

    How do you get at the internal sill cavity (so I can get some Wayoyl in)? Easy on the rusty side - there's a couple of holes to go at, but the passenger side is solid.
     
  6. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido F1 Rookie
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jan 21, 2004
    2,643
    Argent/Brasil
    Full Name:
    Guido
    I used the screw holes from that stainless cover and a very tiny plastic tube they sell with paint/wax containers.
     
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  7. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,948
    Isle of man- uk
    You can drill a 4.8 mm hole and then fit a pop rivet when done. The waxol stays sticky, use bitumen paint like they use on felt roof on a garden shed. It dries fully.
    I also drilled holes from the inside by the sides of the rear seats and filled with Waxol, then pop rivet
    I think I fitted a nylon washer under the sill cover to maintain a gap
     
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