Mondial Slipped Cambelt

You have way more issues than that if the cambelt slipped. You will have many bent valves- it is a contact engine....

good luck

 

+1 flat bed it over to your trusted mechanic and have them look at it. Don't try to start it - it will worsen the damage.

When was the last major (belt + tensioner bearings +/- water pump) - how many years and miles ago was it?

 

Check it out first. I've had several where there wasn't internal damage. Here, of course, you'll hear worst case.

 

What do you mean by "pistons aren't firing"?

Do you have a sense of whether the belt slipped one notch or many? One or two notches means you don't necessarily have internal damage. Many notches and you can be sure you've got internal damage.

The belt is still on, is that correct?

 

Is the belt loose at all positions or does it get loose and tighter with rotation?

 

If it's whole and still on, it can't be loose in all positions because that doesn't take into account valve spring pressures.

If the belt is loose in all positions, it's off or broken...

 

this is correct

 

Sounds like a catestrophic failure. In 2001, My Mondial QV stripped about 10 teeth from the forward-bank cam belt. The belt stayed in place, nice and snug while the drive gear-pully spun uselessly against the smooth belt. In fact, I have been told that the usual failure mode for gear-belts is stripped teeth, not 'broken' belts, per se. I still have that damaged belt in my garage above the toolbox as a reminder.

 

Stripped teeth means the belt is broken.

I'll stand by what I have seen and said. I have personally replaced belts and tensioner bearings on half a dozen US QV's and 3.2's (two and four seaters) in the past twenty years that sustained NO internal damage, including a personal car that did it while I was driving to work and I continued on to work on one bank.

Proper diagnosis includes confirmation, but not assumption.

 

Did you suffer internal damage?

 

As long as the belts are still not removed you can try this:

Remove the cam covers and chek the clearances between the cam and the bucket. Excessive clearance at any of the cylindres and you propably have a bent valve.

Next set the TDC for piston # 1 at the flywheel.

Remove the camcovers and see if the lines on the camshaft lined up with the lines on caps. You will find these lines on the righthand (waterpump) side of the engine. If the lines do not line up you have a problem, meaning head and engine removal.

If either of yoyr cambelt slipped more than one notch I would be extremely reluctant to do a compression test.

I have a similar problem with my 308 cyl 5-8 : the lines on the exhaust camshaft are about 7mm apart and in cyl # 8 the exh. valve clearance is 0.7 instead of 0.3 to 0.35. The engine romoval have to wait for a while, I have the engine rebuilt in my Espada and I will finish that project first and than the 308. ltoth

 

The consensus seems to be that when these engines are properly degreed and timed it is not likely that the timing marks will line up precisely. So that may not accurately show a problem with the engine. I would hate to see somebody pull their engine based on that observation only. I have not yet pulled my covers so I really don't know how mine line up. I do know the mark visible through the oil filler is dead on however. Personally, I believe that the belt would have to skip several teeth before interference would occur.

 

If the engine is degreed the marks are still going to very, very close to the alignment marks. And you are correct, the cam could be off quite a ways before any risk of damage could occur. Far more than you would think. You could potentially have the cam marks off over 1/4 inch and still maybe not harm anything, depending on which way your off.

And whether this car is degree timed or not, the cam covers should come off to make damn sure timing hasnt jumped, and to set the new belt. But I would also suggest a leakage test to rule out any valve damage before getting too deep into a belt replacement. Slightly bent valves may allow the car to run sorta okay until they turn into slightly broken valves that begin to slightly smash holes in your pistons.

 

Pete, quite obviously, the point Rick was making was that stripping the teeth on a belt is quite different than the belt breaking ie. no longer in a continuous loop. Yes, that's "broken" but that's not what was being said.

Rick is correct - it's more common to strip teeth than actually break the belt. In either case it's usually a fatal failure unfortunately....

 

There is a bent valve from that event sitting on my desk, I'll let Rick tell the story.

 

Last year, I pircked up some debris of the the M6 motorway which duly cut into the belt and made it slip.
The photo below shows the damge. fortunately no damage to the pistons
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I saw this on ebay for ECU:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ferrari-Magneti-Marelli-ECU-Digiplex-308-328-Mondial_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem360145069617QQitemZ360145069617QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_803wt_1019

 

If it is for a 3.2 engine, european version, here's two:

http://cgi.ebay.de/Ferrari-328-GTB-GTS-Zuendsteuergeraet_W0QQitemZ360006093490QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item360006093490&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1229%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.de/Ferrari-328-GTB-GTS-Zuendsteuergeraet_W0QQitemZ360134942872QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item360134942872&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1229%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318