Mondial t discs (rotors) - Alternatives and upgrades

Hi guys
after about 15 laps at our local raceway (Barbagallo) at Wanneroo in Perth, Western Australia, my front disc rotor cracked. It had one hairline crack in it before racing and I conferred with a friend about it before deciding to go ahead an put it on the track. Barbagallo Raceway has a high speed down hill to the final corner (90deg right). So 200kph (120 mph) to 60kph (35 mph) in just a few seconds, is hard on the brakes.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yeah I know that it could have been way worse, and maybe in hindsight I shouldn't have gone on the track, but oh well.
The other side is now also showing hairline cracks where before none could be seen. I don't really know what these rotors are as they were on the car when bought (last month).
So now I am searching for alternatives or upgrades at a reasonable price. I don't think that OEM spec are value at $600. Does anyone know what else fits? As it is a race car, I am not really bothered about originality.
Thanks

 

I have a couple of Girodisc rotors on the way. They work with the std caliper, and should be a lot better. Also the rotor itself can be replaced later without buying the hub, which is alloy. US$900 / pair, but lighter in weight.
Image Unavailable, Please Login


I didn't go the Superformance route because they didn't know if the upgrade fitted the Mondial T (listed as Mondial 8 only) and recommended F355 Challenge kit, which I know won't fit. Actually going through this exercise taught me how little resellers actually know. The best resource I found was the EBC UK catalogue, and it is very comprehensive.Unfortunately it can't be downloaded, but is very useful. It shows most Ferraris (and nearly every other car), Disc info, caliper type, and pads in 3 grades. I took screen shots of the Mondial t for future reference.

 

So over the Christmas break I got the hubs re-greased (thanks to posts on here) it wasn't too hard. I then went about making a proper venting system for the discs. This was one of the hardest jobs that I have done on any car. Due to the shape of the hub and the fact that there are no disc covers it is hard to find something to mount it all to. I fashioned a piece of 2mm aluminium over the hub as a base and held it down with the ground bolt and 2 of the hub bolts. I then had to work on a way of getting the air in without fouling the wheel. I reckon I put the wheels on and off 20 times each! The first effort went in the bin it was so far out. Eventually I got there with a lot of persistence. I had to put in a plastic tube and deform it with a heat gun so that the wheel didn't rub. I reckon I spent a full week on this mod.... just hope that it is worth it! The hardest part was getting it to clear everything when on full lock (inwards) as it compresses the hose and puts pressure on the vent.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

I really thought the other side was gointg to be easier.... it wasn't. Same deal. This photo is before I added the plastic and the wheel was rubbing on the hose, although you wouldn't think so. The wheel weights were the real problem.... adding the tube and deforming it cured the problem.

. Image Unavailable, Please Login

This is what is behind the disc...

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I also had the discs and pads Cryogenically treated. It is supposed to add 2 - 3 times the life to the rotors. $170 treatment Vs $900 rotors, made sense to me.

 

The original rotors are Brembo. They are marked on the outer edge. I spoke to the Australian rep, and he said they weren't made for this... They definitely overheated, that blue colour is the give-away.

 

I've used 2 bolts on the hub carrier and the earth bolt.