Mondial t engine removal steps.

Just documented the steps of removal of the engine for a 30,000 service with pictures , thought it may be good for those that are thinking about removing the engine but have not done so yet , it will include also valve clearances ,valve guide seals ,cambelt change and its bearings also various oil seals ,and general checking over also cleaning up.

1) Starting of with the first step to have the frenon removed from the A/C system, keeping atmosphere clean of the gas.

2) Undo battery connections and put aside.

3) Jack up front of the vehicle and place on ,I used ramp stands or other.

4) Jack up rear and place on ,I used axle stands or other.

5) Open bleed valve on top of radiator to allow coolant to drain easier from system.
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I am just getting used to organising the Picture sending its a bit awkward because I am not used to it ,sorry.
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I then drain the coolant from the front of the vehicle via steel tubular pipes beneath by undoing the bolt which is there for that purpose.

Then I removed the coolant filler tap to allow coolant to drain easier even more.

Then undo the engine block coolant drain plug ,to allow the coolant to drain from the engine block.

I then began to remove the electrical wiring for the rear fog lights in the rear bumber ( fender ).

Remove the rear of the rear wheel arch small panel , it will then allow the removal of the rear bumber once I removed the main 4 bolts ,that holds the bumber on to the underside of the bodywork , the bumber just slides off the both ends in the direction of the rear of the vehicle, I think its easier to have
someone helping you so as you do not scratch anything ,if careful can do it on your own.
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I then had to remove all the surrounding panels to expose various parts of the engine.

Started of with removing on both sides the half moon shaped panels with vents in them .

Then I remove the small panels from beneath the engine.

Removed also the largest panel from beneath the vehicle to expose that area also , in my case I was able to see the both cables that are responsible for allowing one to be able to change gear, due to my vehicle having a valeo clutch.
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Then I removed the oil filler cap in order to be able to drain the engine oil,it allows it to drain quicker if you can try to warm your engine up first before you do this ,I did not have the chance to, then I drained the engine oil via the oil drain plug, also undo the actuall oil container bolt from beneath to drain that to.


Then I removed a plate which is above the alternator to expose the steering pumb pipes two of them ,remove them and put aside , block the holes with something so as not to lose fluid all over the floor.

Remove on the left side of the vehicle the steel brake pipe connetion that supplys fluid to the rear brakes , plug up with a rubber bug to stop fluid going all over you clean garage floor.

Then I had to remove valeo clutch 2 cables from ther attachment, and carefully put to one side.

I then removed the top pipes of both of the fuel filters, some fuel may come out so cover with a rag.
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Removed air cleaner box .

Then I removed the exhaust cotter pins which ther are 2 one on both sides ,it allows the exhaust box to come away from the underside of the vehicle ,mine where rusted up solid most props because of the weather in the uk.I had to heat them up to get them to move at all .

Remove the handbrake cable from the righthand side or the vehicle.

Undo both lubricating oil pipes large ones.

Then I remove the large 47mm spanner size nut allowing the removal of the largest oil pipe.
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Undo overflow pipe on water filler tank.

Remove expansion bottle nuts holding the bottle to the framework.

Undo electrical wiring that is on top of the rear shock absorbers both sides,I then marked the positions of the tops of the electrical suspention adjusting machanism in relation to where they need to be refitted using some masking tape then marking with a pen, them remove the retaining clip and pull off upwards.

Remove black box pipe found on the left side of vehicle.

Electrical connection remove as pic.

Undo on both sides a connection that looks like a circular shape.

Remove on the lefthand side near the top of the suspention tops ,it looks like a vacuum pipe?.

Undo righthand side pipe which seems to go to finish near the oil tank filler

 

Sorry, forgot to post the pics also ,here they are.
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Then I opened the rear boot , removed the rear panel to expose all the electrical wiring that you need to disconnect to be able to drop the engine with the wires resting on top of the engine.

Carefully push all wiring connections threw the openings once you remove the large rubber gromets , it then allows you to push each block connector individually threw the now large holes but it can be fiddly so take care and time doing it .
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Now working from inside the vehicle , I had entrance threw the lefthand side due to the other side being quiet close to the wall, I pushed the left front seat all the way forward and folded its backing forward, then I placed some papers on the floor where I needed to stand, then I folded down both rear seats ,placing a sheet on top so as to protect the seat backing from dirt etc,I them removed the inspection panel which exposes the front part of the engine .

I undo the vacuum pipe .

Then the throttle cable , you need to remove the clip to allow you to remove the cable I did find it a bit awkward but it was okay ,also in the engine bay end undo it there.

Then the electrical connections after you remove the small plastic panel that covers the electrics I undid the wires on the left only and left the others in places ,you must also undo the red thin wire that runs across the top it was a bullet type connection.

Undo both fuel pipes as shown.

Then undo both large rubber hose clips that are the main coolant pipes.I did at this stage try to remove the pipes but I could not because there was not enough space also they where jammed on solid , so I waited to remove them while I was dropping the engine down ,so make a mental note so as you do not forget that they are still connected will explain later on how I managed to remove them with damage to them.
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In my last written ,what I meant to say , that I removed the larger cooling pipes later on without damage , not with damage as I wrote.

 

Now for the fun part , I crack all the nuts and bolts a little ,half to a turn amount ,I did this to make it easier to remove them later on ,when the jacks I have been put in place space becomes more restricted because the jacks take up a bit of space under the vehicle.

Then I placed my four jacks on each corner of the subframe ,that is what I used I had 2 and 2 more I loaned from friends,but you can use less if you prefer but I found that 4 gave me more control ,remembering that you need to leave enough space when you drop it right down to fit on the engine craddle otherwise the jacks may hit the craddle due to not enough clearance allowed for them to be dropped past the engine craddled.

Try to also position the engine craddle not to far forward of the engine otherwise later the craddled will be in your way of turn your engine over with a large bar , so let the bottom of the engine overhang by about 1 inch.

Once all your jacks are in place and doing ther job , you can begin to undo all the mounting points of the chassis to the vehicle to allow you to put the weight of the engine assembly upon the jacks .

Once all your nuts from the bolts are out ,you need to adjust the jacks slightly to allow you to be able to pull the bolts out of ther holes , due to the large weight of the engine even though it is on jacks, to adjust them slightly makes life getting the bolts out easier .

I then removed the both rubber pipes from beneath the coolant filler tank ,so as to be able to drop the tank a little lower below the highest part of the engine so that it does not get caught when you roll the engine out of its bay.
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Now for dropping the engine out , make sure that nothing is still connected to the engine that is going to get damaged while you are dropping it down ,check the top bottom and both sides more than once ,you do not want to damage anything because then it is costing you.Once you have done that , you can begin to start dropping the jacks slowly must be stressed.

I found that I had to be careful of the shock absorber tops ,they try there best to get stuck on ther undoing top openings so I had to check all the time before I dropped each jack in fact to make sure ,even then they still tryed to get jammed so keep checking its a pain but worth it to check.

When I had it down to the point where the 2 main coolant rubber hose pipes near the back seats of the vehicle where at such a point that it was a good time to disconnect them ,then I did , but it was still most difficult, in the end I had to use a piece of wood placed on the air intake pleniums , then push back with them onto the rubber hoses to get them lose and it worked but it took some time.

So just keep lowering till you come into contact with the engine craddle that is waiting at the bottom.Once on craddle remove all jacks ,so that engine is free on the craddle to be moved away from vehicle, the other thing is make sure that the craddle that you are using is not lower than your lowest jack otherwise it is difficult to remove the jack because it is slightly higher than the craddle.

Then you need to jack up the vehicle if necessary to clear the hight of the engine top.

When you have done that you need to turn the engine at a 90 degree angle by moving the craddle from where it was before , so that the shock absorbers can pass threw the centre of the back end of the vehicle.
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