Hello Ernie I tried to use a tool for this kind of ring (but for the external ones..) and this hasn't worked, since mine is internal and I also think it has already been removed since the usable angle is reduced compared to the new I bought. Image Unavailable, Please Login I wanted to avoid drilling in the gearbox but I don't see other solution as you are saying.. However it will be tough to drill a very small hole in this hard steel using a (very) long drill. This is really a pitta to put something like that so deep in this location..
Hello Using an extended drill (brazed tube on the drill) I was able to drill the ring and extract it using a standard ring plier... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login What a time lost because of this but at least I can keep on.. I will put the ring back like that, at least the next time it has to be removed it will be straightforward.. I have been trying to engage two gears to block the transmission (like in this topic: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/another-348-gearbox-takeapart.236842/) However I am not able to engage two gears at the same time. I am surprised I haven't read anything regarding the stoppers that prevent engaging two gears. What do I have to do to be able two gears at the same time? Thanks
Bump! If somone knows how to be able to engage two gears to be able to torque these ring nuts!! @ernie if you missed my previous post!
Another question here: I have put back the two center needle bearings but I have been really surprised to be able to engage the clutch shaft needle bearing by hand... I have only put a very tiny amount of loctite 648 not very cleanly since I thought it would be tighter!! Is this "loose" mounting normal for this bearing? Are these nearings usually mounted with loctite? Then I have tried to test putting a rag between the gears to block the gearbox but the gears are destroying the rag and still turning, I still don't know how to block this gearbox.
you need to undo the bolt on the selector fork in the central section where the diff is and let the selector fork move on the shaft. Before you remove the bolt make a note of the position of the fork on the shaft. Also the alignment of the input arm in the stack of three where the gear change shaft engages the three bell cranks. Use a veneer calliper. I have been through this process last week after finding parts of a sealing ring that fit on the lefthand side layshaft. one was fitted but parts of an old one were on the magnetic plug. Don't know how they got there. My clutch shaft ring nut had come loose but no damage of any concern was found. Caught just in time.
Hello Thanks for your reply. This what I thought of doing but since on the thread I have seen there it was looking like the gears could be engaged with the shaft I was hoping not having to undo the fork. I have also a new question that arisen.. I put back the bearing and the gear on the clutch shaft but juste before putting it in the gearbox, I realized that the clearance between the gear and the bearing enveloppe was way different than just after removing the clutch shaft: Before (almost no clearance between the bearing enveloppe and the gear): Image Unavailable, Please Login After (gap of 2.5mm between the pinion and the bearing enveloppe): Image Unavailable, Please Login I had a moment of fear and disassembled everything to check the gear was correctly mounted. Most of the pictures I have seen there are showing almost no clearance but then I thought that maybe the bearing moved a little bit during the extraction from the gearbox and in fact there was no issue at all... Could someone confirm me this? Also, mondialdave have you used something special to put the clutch shaft back in the gearbox apart from heating the transmission and a hammer? Thanks
I made a tool using some steel rods with m8 threads in the ends that screw onto the TO flange studs. I used my old flange with some bushings made to fit either end of the TO flange. Also a a plug that fits the end of the clutch shaft you are putting in. I used a length of m16 studding and it just pushed the input shaft in nice and square.
Old thread, did you manage to solve the noise issue? My trans is very noisy and i just started to take it apart. The Clutch release bearing sounds bad but the trans becomes silent after i press the clutch so i doubt it is that. The trans doesn't pick up much noise when driven all is more or less there at idle aka out of geqr. Since it is very loud it might be the clutch shaft bearing that u just changed above? Any geedback? Skickat från min iPhone med FerrariChat
It could be that the outside bearing, on the oil pump side of the gearbox, is going/has gone bad. Drain all the oil from the gearbox and inspect it for bits if metal. The bearing cage on the old design tends to destroy itself. I would also remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the gearbox. Make sure the gears are in good shape, and check to make sure there is zero play on the main and lay shaft. What happens is when the outer bearing/s go bad it allows the shaft to walk back-and-forth. That causes the teeth in the gears not to mesh properly = a noisy gearbox. If you continue driving like that you can ruin gears and snychros.
Hello In my case the noise I had was heard by the gearstick in the cabin. After all of this I still have the same noise, linear with engine speed. I can hear the same noise in lots of cabin youtube videos of 348/Mondial T so I know think that is is a more or less normal noise related to the shift cable. I don't have any whine from the gearbox itself and no particle when doing the gearbox drain so in my case it looks like I am fine.. but only noise from the gearstick from the cabin, no whining or chunk noise from the gearbox itself.
Ernie, i am disasembling the box in another thread but having a hard time to get he layshaft gear nut off since it has been locktightened/glued. i would guess that all nuts have the std clockwise threading, is that correct as i can find any info regarding this anywhere Skickat från min iPad med FerrariChat
No, one of the ring nuts is reverse/counterclockwise. I don’t remember which one off the top of my head, but there is a nut that is reverse thread.