Monkeys guide to Clutch Pump replacement/Bleed block 360/430

To replace the bleed block:
1) Replace Clutch Pump/MC first before doing this ideally
2) Raise the rear of the car
3) Remove the underbody panel
4) Loosen the fittings on the pipes leading into the block with a 13mm crow foot wrench
(Brake fluid/F1 fluid will likely come out, be ready to catch it)
5) Remove the fittings/pipes
6) Loosen the 10mm bolt in the middle of the block and remove it
7) Remove the block. It may be challenging with the tubes holding it in place.
8) Put in new block, screw pipe fittings back in
9) center and put the central 10mm bolt back in (may be reversed with step 8 above.. i.e. may do this first then step 8)
10) Tighten up the pipe fittings
11) Bleed the brake fluid via the nipple in the block (Note on Hill block it is a 12mm wrench that fits)
12) test for leaks and retighten any loose fittings.

Note: when I did this I did it from the top of the engine. Very tight fit and not easy to do as the bottom. You also can't get enough leverage on the pipe fittings as on the bottom and I had some fluid leaking from the fittings until I was able to retighten from the bottom of the engine. Its drivable but the bottom approach works better.

UNDERTAKE THIS REPAIR AT YOUR OWN RISK!! NO ACCURACY OR GUARANTEES ARE IMPLIED IN THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

 

Clutch Pump/ Clutch Master cylinder replacement in the 360 or 430 Manual transmission.

For Monkeys with pictures.

Prior to replacement obtain these tools from harbor freight if you don't have them:
- Stubby wrenches esp 17mm
- a set of socket wrench extension bars
- a 13 mm rachet wrench (get the set they rule)
- a set of U-joints (look like CV joints on trucks)
- a 5/16" or 5-6mm socket (to fit hose clamp)
- Suction thingy to suck out brake fluid (old syringe with hose ideal)
- rags

 

Step 1: Undo the bolt and nut inside the car on the clutch pedal

There are two plastic disks on the pedal that might fall off. They on each side of the clutch pedal between the metal and the clutch master cylinder fork.
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Step 2: Remove the panel in the rear of the front trunk and the metal panel atop the brake master cylinder. (Oh forgot above.. a electric driver and I think 3-4mm hex socket helps here)
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Step 3: Suck out the brake fluid from the brake reservoir. Use the sucker thingy your have chosen to do it.

DO NOT LET THE FLUID MAKE CONTACT WITH YOUR PAINT!!!! PAINT AND BRAKE FLUID DON'T MIX WELLL!!!!
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Step 4: Stuff rags below the clutch pump / master cylinder and loosen the hose clamps from the brake fluid reservoir to the clutch pump/master cylinder.

To loosen the clamps I used a 1/4" socket extension, socket wrench, U-joint and the socket head that fit the clamp. I loosened and slid the clamp at the clutch pump/master cylinder AND at the reservoir.
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Step 5: Loosen the pipe fitting/Bolt on the pipe to the clutch. (sorry.. I thought I had a picture of this.. )

Take the stubby wrench (17mm IIRC) and put the closed end of it on the hydrailic fitting (bolt thing that is facing the metal sidewall/drivers side of the car)
to loosen this you are going to be pressing downward. (righty tighty - lefty loosey) To loosen it if its very tight I went from throught the top opening and used a bar to press down on the wrench.

 

Step 6: remove the bolts that hold the master cylinder in.

For this I used my extension bar, U-joints and a 13mm socket to remove the lower nut that holds in the master cylinder.

For the upper nut, I used the ratcheting 13mm wrench, I put it on the nut and positioned it below the rubber weather stripping around the wiper motor. I moved the wrench in 5 degree motions little by little to get the top nut out. Patience grasshopper, patience.
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Step 7: Remove the master cylinder. It just pulls out of the car.

The hose to the brake fluid reservoir may be a pain to remove. IIRC it came off the master cylinder and remained on the reservoir as I removed it. Be careful! You don't want to crack the nipple the hose is attached to on the brake fluid reservoir.

 

Step 8: Transfer hardware to the new Clutch Pump/ clutch master cylinder

I used a measurement caliper to note the distance on the threaded part of the caliper to the nut holding on the clutch pedal fork. Lock this in.

Then take the 7mm wrench (IIRC) and use this on the indentations on the rod of the clutch pump, then take a 13mm wrench and loosen the nut on the threaded rod. Remove the fork by twisting it off, take the 13mm bolt off the rod, put the 13mm bolt on the rod of the NEW clutch pump and screw it on until its about the distance from the unthreaded end of the rod. Use the 7mm wrench and the 13mm wrench to then tighten the 13mm nut. You tighten up the nut and use the calipers to ensure the distance is the same.
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Step 9: Reassemble in reverse

Put the clutch pump/MC back into the car and follow instructions in reverse. The clutch pedal may need to be adjusted per the WSM, however once its back in the car and fully installed this can be done with the 7mm wrench and 13mm wrench. Its tight.. but can be done. My clutch worked perfect once I reinstalled it as before with better "feel".

NOTE: UNDERTAKE THIS REPAIR AT YOUR OWN RISK! NO GUARANTEES ARE GIVEN OR IMPLIED AS TO THE ACCURACCY OF THE INFORMATION PRESENTED.