More GTO look, EFI, AMG supercharger, Supertrapps and Magnaflows.

I got the crank and flywheel back from the engine shop. Crank was perfectly good and within spec for standard bearings. Only on the ends were the seals ride is a groove that they couldn't polish out but he suggested I shimm the new seals in the front/rear cover so they ride on a different spot.
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Spent a whole afternoon grinding on one of the Fiat rear calipers, removed 1/2 from the casting so now only the handbrake mechanism remains. I'm not entirely happy with the result but I guess it will work eventually after some more tweaking.
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More cleaning on the block and covers. The engine will be a (too) bright silver so I'm a bit hesitant to post pictures yet (didn't take any) if it looks like a spray can engine rebuild I will choose a darker color before assembling. But whoever said hammerite is only good for garden fences is a snob
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Now I'm waiting for parts.
Ordered 16 valve guides, seals and conrod nuts from dinoparts.de , their guides are 1/2 the price from superformance and made from BMW spec material, cool, I had Audi, Mercedes and VW already in my car but not BMW.
The JE pistons and kevlar clutch come from Norwood but they are made to order so that will take another 2-3 weeks.
Universal brake rotor hats and some brake line and fittings come from http://www.rallydesign.co.uk
Brake rotors and the prothane motormounts come from Summitracing USA but the rotors are on back order for 2 weeks.
And all the gaskets, seals, bearings etc come from Superformance.

 

It is quite a big and diverse project and I feel I'm the project manager, the chief engineer and the financer. By doing all at once I can proceed on one thing while waiting for parts for another thing. If the car was finished and then I started the brakes, then I would be waiting a month for parts and not driving it.
Less than 50% off the project is actually working on the car, rest is researching, educating and planning. It's a good thing I have a job with lots of time to think if all the machines are running properly and the proces is steady. Today I designed a new and simple handbrake caliper, and it is ready but only in my head, I just have to build it.

 

Some parts arrived, from Superformance and rally-design. SF sent the wrong main bearings though, I ordered standard size but got 010 oversize, have to sent those back. The universal brake hats are nice well made pieces and they will work. I will have the center holes enlarged and when the rotors arrive there is some fine tuning to do in fitment, the front will need a 5mm spacer total between wheel and hat or between hat and hub, while the rear hat needs to be shaved down 5mm, also inside or outside, but in such a way that the brake caliper will be a nice fit tight against the spokes of the wheel, I like that look.
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Was not in the mood to do much, but I fitted the new starter solenoid I got today. From the old one all the connectors broke of when removing and SF has new ones for not to much so instead of attempting a third world style repare I ordered the new one. Also ordered a bush set for the rotor but fitting was to troublesome, the old ones were still good and my soldering iron couldn't melt them loose so I didn't want to disturb a good thing.
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Now that my new exhaust valves were there, I decided to test the strength of an old one. First I threw it against the concrete (outside) a couple of times as hard as I could but it didn't break. Then I laid it on the concrete and threw a big rock at it, as I'm no sportsman I missed a couple of times but finally managed to break the valvestem. Not at the weld joint but higher up. Saw that they were indeed hollow with powder in it. Threw them in some water from save distance and it started to bubble. When all bubbling was done I decided togrind open the remaining piece...after a while it started to burn hehe, looked great but was to late with the camera. Final picture: that valve looks great to me, no corrosion, weld barely detectable, had been probably good for years without a problem. Myth busted? You can't draw conclusions from one valve from one car
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I installed the valve guides myself, not that difficult I learned from a luckydynes thread. I did mess one up though but got a replacement already. The guides sit much tighter than the original ones and the valve stem won't slide in all the way so I ordered a 8 mm reamer.
I had some discussion about upgrade valve springs for boost, I hijacked the luckydynes thread here it is:

 

I will restart work on the motor once all parts are here, that is more efficient than doing small things 1 at a time. I did receive Verell's square shift shaft seals, they will go in this week. In the meanwhile I did some filling and handsanding the front fenders and rear spoiler, pictures won't show any noticable progress but at the moment I can't lift my own arms anymore, was time I got some workout it had been a while.

 

amongst other things, I reamed the valve guides with the 8 mm reamer I got. Seemed like a real tight interference fit because the portruding ends were fine but I removed quite some material were they are held in the head. Then I started lapping the valves in with valve grind paste and discovered 1 inlet valve was seriously bend, unbelieveable. No marks on the valve, no marks on any piston (I threw them all in a box without marking were they came from) but the valve seat showed that this bend valve was there before disassembling. I took the head to the engine builder and he pointed out that the valve guide was not centered. This was the new guide I installed but I'm sure I didn't mess up, no alu or valve guide shavings, it just went in there and I know for sure the old guide was just like this. Upon further investigation 2 more seats are suspect, showing signs of running with a misaligned guide. I have no reason to think this motor was ever opened up before, certainly not in the 11 years I have had it and it ran fine (this means it can only get better after repair...). I don't know, I left the head there and tomorrow I will bring the other head and just let them do what needs to be done, maybe new offcenter seats have to be installed or re cutting the seats will do. No pics because my good old "dark angel" (because it can take clear pictures in the dark with 30 seconds+ shutter time) 2001 Sony 707 finally died, covered in filler, dust, blue, red and grey paint.

 

Only exhaust valves are new, the inlet valves looked perfect. They still look perfect. 7 of them are perfect. The 8th is 1 mm offcenter...

 

I understand now, but the one seat from the bend valve was really battered offcenter. Bend valve, misaligned guide, don't know what is the cause and what is the result. Anyway, I brought the other head today and all the valves. The old guy I dealt with today and yesterday was the dad of the current owner and assured me they would make everything allright, as he had been building engines since 1957. I suggested removing the severely misaligned guide and rebore the ground bore in the proper direction to fit an oversize guide but he told me it was far easier and safer to just install a new seat. His shop was the only in the country that could make it's own seats, if necessary. I told him to do what needs to be done and just make it good so I won't have to worry the next decades.
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SF=Superformance, www.superformance.co.uk

 

I asked a coworker who came after me, did you see a dead animal on the road? He said yes, it was huge, I had to swerve around it. So I called the police to inform them, as it was still very early in the morning and it would become a busy road later. They said, well, we can go have a look, but what if it is not there anymore when we get there? Gee, I said, do what you want, I did my citizens duty and if there is an accident it wasn't my fault.
Next time I stop and get the tail from the beast.

 

The parts from Summit arrived, brake discs are heavy $300 shipping costs.
Assembled the front brakediscs to adapters, the rear adapters are at the machine shop, 5 mm has to be removed from the inside face. The friction part of the discs is narrower than the Porsche brake pads, so I trimmed those down a bit, what you call a dirty job cost me probably 2-3 years of healthy life expectancy despite duskmask.
The prothane bullit Mustang motor mounts (search "prothane") have a slightly larger bolt spacing. Instead of enlarging the holes I welded the holes in the steel "feet" closed and added some extra metal, then drilled them to the correct size. Then one pair of the new mounts need 6 mm spacers, used Alfasud belt tensioner spacers, the other pair needed to be trimmed down 11 mm, did that with a Protrak XP2000 I mean a grinder and band sander. I also enlarged the mounting holes and tapped them to M12 to use the original bolts for frame mounting.
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The stronger valve springs were just delivered. A perfect fit, but...the windings are the other way round, that's not good is it? I suppose the inner and outer spring should have a different wind orientation to eliminate a rotating force on the retainers?
New spring on the left:
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