Moving 355 Spider Top Bypass Switches

I got tired of pulling the plug for the top bypass switches and I wasn't going to spend $800+ on pots that would just fail. So I decided to rewire the top bypass switches to the top switch in the center console. It took a couple of relays, two diodes, and about two hours. All in all, well worth it.

If anyone is interested, I can post info.

 

Hi Mark,I sure would be interested in your post.My top has started to act up this year.Thanks

 

Thats a real easy way to do it

Post up the pics Diodes confuse my old ass

 

I just pulled the wires to a small switch I put in the hole for the ABS cut out switch us US folks are not allowed to have. No diodes or relays necessary.

Curious what you did....please post!

 

Yes post we need to add this to the diy sticky for people to have options. Thanks

 

Hate bringing an old thread back to life, but does anyone have the diagram for this? The top ECU on my car is fried (burnt board and melted contacts, non repairable)

I'm also wanting to control the seats with relays from the factory switches, I think I have a handle on that using 2 relays per seat but if it's been done I'd like to see how others have accomplished it.

Cheers

 

Do you know which parts fried... seat circuits? These seem to be the only* circuits carrying any serious power as they are driving the seat motors directly. The roof motor is powered via external relays.
If the seats are using too much power, perhaps the problem lies in the seat motors or seat tracks.

Do you have this diagram for normal roof operation?

Roof diagram

 

Roof works properly with emergency switches. Seats wont move at all even after repairing the pots. No interest in trying to make the black box work, far too many issues with it. Btw even with the black box completely removed, top still works with emergency switch, and the windows drop when the top is pushed up

 

What I will probably do is use the factory top switch to control the ground circuit on the respective relay for open and close

 

Thanks. Understood. The bypass switches bypass the ECU and seat/window/roof sensor input into the ECU. Only the handbrake switch remains in the bypass circuit. The windows still work because the left hand roof striker plate switch inputs directly into the window controller.

I'm still worried that it could be a seat wiring/motor problem which caused the ECU to fry. Adding relays may not be a safe solution.

 

I see what your saying now. I did power the motors under the seats and ran them forward and back. I dont think they are the problem but with all the problems I see with pots, controllers, microswitches etc, I completely agree with what one user said, the most over designed under performing piece of ka ka ferrari ever over engineered. I was surprised the windows still dropped with the black box completely removed

 

Personally, I would just convert it to a manual top like the 348. There is no need for a power top in the 355..none. that top was a mistake from the start.

 

I dont like the idea of having to get out and move each side a little at a time. Theres nothing wrong with the electrics or hydraulics, it's the overly complicated POS ECU that needs to go.

 

Would you have any photos of the damage? Boards can be hardwired, but I'm not sure what you mean by melted contacts (are these on the ECU plug?)

These are the only photos of the internals I could find.

96 Spider Power Seat not working?

Just wondering what bespoke components are on the other side. There must be some relays for the seat motors mounted on the boards.

 

Mine is very similar except the conductive strip has completely seperated from the board in several areas. I gave it to my brother in law who owns an electronic repair shop, he said it was too far gone to save.

 

Yes on the other side of the board is two relays that are discontinued and very hard to source, there is a thread of someone who tried that route. For me, its overly complicated, I'd rather motor the seats forward then do the top and put the seats back, I know it will work everytime and not leave me stranded with a seat that wont move

 

Ah.. yes.. thanks for the reminder. The thread is here....

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/96-spider-power-seat-not-working.552975/#post-145395886

... although there were plenty of hits on eBay for the relay "V23084-C2001-A403" and "V23081-C1059-A303"

I might order a few just in case.

 

I'm in the middle of my engine out, about to begin the teardown to replace a piston and sleeve, possibly more, so the top and seats are on the back burner for a bit. I will update this thread when I get back into it.

 

As I posted three years ago (yikes) I pulled the wires from the emergency switch to a toggle I placed in the console.
Pretty sure it has little to do with the top ECU now (although I have a second one I need to install to see)...perhaps an answer for you?

It looks stock and operates just the top. I move the seats and windows manually and run the top.
Better than manual operation and easier as well.

I did the seat pot repair but it failed. Gluing them is a fools errand IMHO.

If I can help in any way, let me know.

 

I thought it would be this easy, but as it has 3 wires, black to red circuit is normally closed, when the switch is pressed that circuit opens and red to yellow are closed. Just jumping the red to yellow doesnt operate the top.. I welcome any insight you have

 

When you did your yellow-red wire jump, did you have the handbrake set and the ignition on? The motor uses direct battery power, but the relay coils still need the ignition on.

 

I believe so, the relays clicked but pump didnt run. I will dig into it again this week and verify parking brake is set, it may not have been

 

I assume if the relays clicked, the parking brake would have been set. However, I did notice something strange during the wiring checks I carried out on my '98 Australian car. I always got an earth on the yellow wires (orange-black wires on the car side of the 6-pin bypass switch plug), park brake set or not. I don't know if the ohmmeter was reacting to some other part of a depowered brake system. The handbrake switch is in parallel with a few other circuits (at least on Euro-based cars). I don't think I repeated the tests with the ignition on.

 

Pull the emergency top operating switch out and look at that. Find the power wires that run the top up and down.
Using a center position toggle switch like the one below, tap into and connect the power leads from the emergency switch to each of the end connectors.
Ground the center connector.
That switch is now an extension of the emergency switch and bypasses the ecu and simply runs the pump in the direction selected by the switch.
Install in the console for a better look.
Move the windows and seats manually and then push and hold your new switch in the direction you want the top to move.

Some day I'll fix the seat pots in mine, but this is so darn simple have just not bothered yet.

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Nice Mod! What would stop someone from same idea but run to the oem switch in center of seat switches? (I can’t recall is it not a rocker?). Then it all would act totally rationally / the top just goes up or down...Ed

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