Multiple System Failures....

Discussion in 'FF/GTC4Lusso/F12/812S' started by gilly6993, Jul 12, 2018 at 1:49 PM.

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  1. gilly6993

    gilly6993 Formula 3

    Aug 20, 2009
    1,725
    Longmeadow, MA
    Full Name:
    Eric
    Car has been running fine. Got in it after a short trip to the store and started it up....Manettino, Rear Diff, Rear steering, all showing failure and “go to dealer”. As for some easier said then done....car is also stuck in wet mode. Seems to be running perfectly fine....

    Any thoughts besides the obvious and go to the dealer....

    Hoping this is just a computer playing a joke and will reset itself....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  2. iloveferrari

    iloveferrari Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 14, 2014
    454
  3. gilly6993

    gilly6993 Formula 3

    Aug 20, 2009
    1,725
    Longmeadow, MA
    Full Name:
    Eric
    Drive the car multiple times a week....Hasn't sat for more than a couple of days since I got it.....
     
  4. iloveferrari

    iloveferrari Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 14, 2014
    454
    Was it on battery tender? I was told that even if it has been the whole time, we should still drive it once a week.
     
  5. Alcav5

    Alcav5 Formula 3
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    Jul 28, 2012
    1,339
    Scarsdale, NY
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    Al
    How many miles on it, I'm thinking regardless that it's driven or on a charger the batteries (some?) have a limited life span, just saying bc it happened to me w my '10 Cali
     
  6. RamsHmb

    RamsHmb Karting
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jan 22, 2017
    60
    California
    Check to make sure the batter clamps are on tight...had something similar happen to a Cali I had years ago. I just had to tighten it and all was good. Hope it’s that easy for you
     
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  8. montpellier

    montpellier Formula Junior

    Aug 27, 2009
    463
    Europe
    Full Name:
    Paul
    It is most likely just a reset at dealer from my experience. Mine was battery related like others have said.
     
  9. gilly6993

    gilly6993 Formula 3

    Aug 20, 2009
    1,725
    Longmeadow, MA
    Full Name:
    Eric
    Thanks all....I'll double check the battery....there are over 3500 miles on it now....I've read some other posts where it was just the computer acting crazy....my 458 would go weeks without being driven and no tender with no issues.....this car gets driven much much more!.....already more miles in a couple of months than the last 2 years of my 458....
     
  10. italiafan

    italiafan F1 Veteran

    Jul 19, 2006
    8,977
    USA
    Full Name:
    Stickbones Swagglesmith
    Were you at a traffic light stopped?
     
  11. ANOpax

    ANOpax Karting

    Jul 1, 2015
    54
    The Netherlands
    Get it looked at.

    As a cautionary tale, my recent experience is as follows;

    Sunday: Car went into limp mode 4hrs into a 7hr journey after sitting in traffic following autobahn speeds of 180kph. Full power restored after refuelling and ignition off.

    Sunday: Car went into limp mode while parking it at the end of 7hr journey and more high autobahn speeds.

    Monday: On startup prior to a 4hr journey, all was good. At the end of the journey, the car went into limp mode and the CEL engine light came on when I tried to make a U-turn. I also had engine ECU failure warning. Ignition off and then on did not clear the limp mode or CEL. Disconnected the battery, reconnected it and all warning lights disappeared.

    Tuesday: Startup no problem. Drive 30km no problem. Restart after 1hr sat in car park, no problem. Pull out onto highway 1min after startup and engine goes into limp mode and then dies. I now get a CEL and a 'catalyst temperature impossible' warning. Car won't start and a battery disconnect does not cure it. I can't get it into neutral so the gearbox is locked in P (manual disconnect doesn't seem to work) and some bugger has stolen the tow eye. I have to call for recovery. Car is recovered to Verona (how close am I to Maranello now!) where they diagnose a scavenge fuel pump error code. Now, I've know about this error code for a couple of weeks prior to the trip as it was flagged at the last service - but the scavenge pump has been working fine and the fuel tank is full so the main pump should be working.

    Wednesday: Final diagnosis. The fuel pump ECU is fried and managed to blow a 50 Amp fuse. There is nothing wrong with the fuel pumps themselves.

    Moral of the story is that even if a reset or battery disconnect appears to clear things, don't ignore the possibility that some component is on its way out and repeated warnings are a sign of imminent failure. TBH though, I'm not sure that Ferrari Verona would have been able to diagnose the ECU failure until it had actually happened as they would probably have been chasing the scavenge pump error and not suspecting the ECU which generated the spurious scavenge pump code as the culprit...
     
  12. Caeruleus11

    Caeruleus11 F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jun 11, 2013
    7,481
    My experience says this could be battery- just because you drive it- how long is each drive? If its less than 40 minutes per drive, you are net losing charge. Also the OEM battery is OK but not wonderful- the same goes for the OEM tender. It doesn't really add any juice, it just will hold it there.

    Suggestion is to put the OEM tender in a box and use a cTek 7002 - just make sure to find out if your battery is AGM and if so, use the AGM mode.

    Another thought that comes to mind is on my 599, I had a pebble hit a parking sensor and the sensor failed. It showed a failure of every system and went into limp home mode. Replacing the sensor fixed everything.

    With all that said, I agree with ANOpax above, get it checked out- don't take a chance.
     
  13. Streetsurfer

    Streetsurfer Formula Junior

    Dec 16, 2015
    498
    near Chicago
    Full Name:
    Ron
    Battery tender makes a neat little volt meter that plugs right into their charge cable connector. The first thing I do if I encounter multiple alerts is check the battery voltage.

    Check the battery voltage when an issue like this arises and bets are you are below 12.5/50%charge. Check it right away, as sitting will top off the battery by itself. A dirty battery top can leak voltage out of the battery. A fouled or loose connection will impede charge rate.

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  15. gilly6993

    gilly6993 Formula 3

    Aug 20, 2009
    1,725
    Longmeadow, MA
    Full Name:
    Eric
    Well after that day have had no issues. I’ll definitely get it checked out at some point with the dealer but not rushing to do so unless it whacks out again...


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  16. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 Veteran
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    Aug 22, 2002
    7,725
    im tempted to stop using battery tenders and just turning the darn batteries off with the switch. i think the cars wld actually benefit from periodic reboots. Ive used a tender with the FF since 2012 and going to stop using one for the next cple years. ill report back.
     
  17. Caeruleus11

    Caeruleus11 F1 Veteran
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    Jun 11, 2013
    7,481
    I would not advise this. I think you could end up with various electronic issues where you need a dealer computer to clear. The best bet is to use a better tender than the OEM. I recommend the 7002 CTek- though the tenders from Battery Tender are supposedly very good also.
     
  18. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 Veteran
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    Aug 22, 2002
    7,725
    those happen anyway! i use cteks!
     
  19. MedinaCustomClassics

    Dec 7, 2006
    146
    Medina, Washington
    Full Name:
    Mark H
    Boy, this tread brings back memories, not not good ones, ha.

    I was told by a mechanic once that due to all the electronics on these new cars and it's a good Idea to change out the battery every year. It's only like 400 bucks and you start each year with a new battery. Electronic memory in batteries and all the things that are dependent on a properly functioning battery, makes a lot of sense. Now, know that, do I change out my battery every year? No, but I probably should.
     
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  20. Caeruleus11

    Caeruleus11 F1 Veteran
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    Jun 11, 2013
    7,481
    All I can say is (knock wood) not a single issue with these in over a decade of use on multiple cars. They've even helped me get what I consider extended life out of batteries.

    I think once a year is a bit much, but, my advice is change the OEM battery somewhere around year 3 and thereafter about every 4-5 years.
     
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  21. Solid State

    Solid State Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Feb 4, 2014
    2,144
    #19 Solid State, Jul 16, 2018 at 11:46 PM
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2018 at 11:56 PM
    I do a bit of work with ECUs. Actually a lot of work. There are over 100 ECUs in the average luxury vehicle running tens to hundreds of millions of lines of code - most not completely tested. The power buses have losses due to a lot of physical constraints meaning that sometimes there are conditions where the voltage will drop and communications are affected. Sometimes they register as faults - sometimes hard faults that need proprietary SW to reset. Some ECUs can be damaged in the process as well. If the OEM performs over the air (wireless) reprogramming of an ECU and your battery is not great then the update could fail. Sometime it can brick the unit (physically destroy it electrically). I use special battery chargers that react very fast to power demands if I want to reprogram an ECU in a harness. Otherwise, the drop due to cabling length may inhibit a correct amount of power for the wiring harnesses. So its always important to have a fresh battery and a charger that can keep it fresh even if your just driving around enjoying your ride.

    By the way my 2013 F12 original battery drops a tenth too low on startup low and issues the warning "Electrical system Failure - Return to dealer" warning. Goes away after charging but come back if re-start before recharge. The options I was able to glean from FChat are;

    Interstate: MT7-34R
    Odyssey: 34R-PC1500

    Any reviews or comments for each?
     
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  22. rob5819

    rob5819 Rookie

    Dec 12, 2017
    14
    San Diego
    Full Name:
    Rob Barry
    This exact situation happened in my 458 Spider yesterday. Drove to the store in Race mode. Leaving the store got messages of Manettino failure, Go to Dealer. Drove home in "Wet mode" (which is really uninspiring). Got home and turned it off, turned it on with no error messages. Took it out today with no error messages. Will report it to dealer next time I bring it in, but hoping it was just a weird sensor issue. I keep mine on a CTEK 7002 at all times when not driving, battery was replaced six months ago.
     

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