My 458 AVH Manettino and CST failure

Same- 2014 458 Spider- Totally battery- related

 

I replaced the battery 1.5 months ago and I always keep the car on the charger. I am still getting that random AVH error. I will replace the brake push button and see if I have any luck

 

Reporting back 1+ month after changing the brake switch. Unfortunately, I am still getting the random AVH error.
I don't know what is causing it.

 

mine was a wheel speed sensor failure

 

Thanks.
I think this will be the next part I will replace

 

Went to the dealer to check if it is the ABS/wheel sensor. They said it is most probably coming from the OBD killer (I have an aftermarket exhaust). I am still unsure, because the problem appears quite random and doesn't seem exhaust related (for which I get the P0420).
I said I will take things in my own hands and I bought a Thinkcar. I ran a scan and I am getting a P2140 error (Throttle/Pedal Sensor/Switch 'E' / 'F' Voltrelatiorelation).

Even if I delete errors, as soon as I put the car in gear and press the accelerator, I get the error. If I keep playing with the accelerator, at some point the errors dissappear. Maybe it is just a coincidence.
Very strange behaviour. It is driving me nuts.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cq750BRoj8-/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Read this. Was a damaged wire. Same symptoms.

 

Seems like I've seen it reported on Fchat or FB that a new accelerator pedal assembly fixed at least one person's problem, while most of the solutions were solved by the brake pedal switch. I'm thinking the pedal assembly was $300-$400 and a couple hours labor to install.

 

I changed the brake switch weeks ago, but it didn't solve the problem. I am now thinking if I should change the accelerator pedal assembly... It could also be the throttle body...

 

someone also chimed in on one of the 458 FB groups they he had to change out the intake manifold throttle actuator or something, basically the servo motor that opens the butterfly valve(s) in the intake manifold, to the cost of several thousand dollars. apparently the ball gets gummed up and it stops operating properly. I do believe however you can verify proper operation of the valves by using a Leonardo and actuating them and listening or watching for them to open and close.

 

I was watching this video and it got me thinking.


I will check tomorrow just to be sure, but I remember I had 4%, instead of 0%. I have the 2000 pages service manual but couldn't find any reference to the correct voltage/% for fully depressed pedal. Maybe there is another service manual because he mentions in the video that the correct values should be in there.

 

Later edit: I checked this morning and the 2 potentiometers show (at least what it seems) correct values (0.41v and 0.75v) and the position of the accelerator pedal is indeed at 0% when fully depressed. The 4% is the throttle angle with the pedal in the same position.
I will continue to investigate

 

I thought to share my experience in case anyone faces this.
After finding the link below by mistake, I took the car back to the service that installed my aftermarket exhaust and although they said they haven't found anything, I believe this was the issue: a ground wire which wasn't making a perfect contact.
Now everything is back to normal, after 6 months of hell.

https://www.normalguysupercar.com/can-bus-failure-with-lots-of-dtc-codes/

 

Update to this thread. My 2015 California T started throwing fault lights: ESC failure, AVH and Manettino. Found more than one thread on the issue here. Tried restarting, but the faults still threw, sometimes at start, sometimes after 5-10 minutes of driving. Took it to my local mechanic (I’m in Tucson, which does not have a Ferrari dealership), who tested my battery, ran a diagnostic and found no smoking gun. Faults kept coming on. Became a safety issue, as the ESC was disabled when the fault threw. Drove me crazy. Did more poking around online and did see where the brake switch/sensor could be the culprit. Had my guy order the part, took it down to the shop, replaced the switch. Solved the problem. No more faults after driving 3 months and almost 200 miles. The only issue I’ve had with the car. Have owned it almost 4 years and put 10k miles on it.

 

I had my 458 out today for a photoshoot and when I started it to return home, I got this dreaded manettino failure, in addition to the wet mode default/AVH/ESC failure. After reading all the comments on this thread I've decided to replace the battery. Figured it's the easiest since batteries should be in stock around me. I'll post an update after I change it. I also planned to take the car on a trip this week so I'm hoping this fixes it.

 

Could also be the brake pedal switch. They're cheaper than batteries, and speaking of which, I recommend an Anti-gravity with their Bluetooth battery monitor.

 

JustSomeGuy458,
Yeah I agree with Boilermaker. I had the same errors and after reading a ton about it I replaced the brake switch in 15 mins super easy, cleared codes and all warnings have been gone for a while now. Using my scanner's graphing capability I could see the brake pedal switch was not giving a clean signal to the ECU and would often have gitter on the signal giving the ECU false readings.

Of course if your battery is on the older side it can't hurt to replace that in these cars but I'm betting it's the brake switch if you don't have any other issues or slow cranking or anything.
Frank

 

Took the battery in for a check after leaving it on the OEM tender overnight. Car started fine so I assumed the battery was ok. It tested out perfect. I brought it back home and put it back in the car and everything worked normal again. No failures or warning lights anymore. No idea what the deal was unless the battery somehow got discharged while I was out. If anything else happens again, I'll add an update. As for now, everything seems to be good.

@Boiler Inspector & @Fv81587 - the only reason I didn't go for the switch was because I was planning to take the car on a short trip tomorrow and I didn't think I'd be able to get a switch by then. Any idea if the brake lights are effected when the switch goes bad? I worked in the auto world for years and usually when a brake light switch goes bad, the lights either stay on or don't illuminate when the pedal is pressed. Just curious if there's a tell tale sign like that before just swapping parts. Appreciate the feedback, though. I've only had the car a year so it's great to have a community of owners willing to help each other.

 

JustSomeGuy458,
I can't speak for others but in my case there were no issues with any of the lights or brakes even when the car went into wet mode default, AVH/ESC failure lights and reduced power. In my case it was that the brake pedal sensor would work fine most of the time but occasionally would not provide a clean signal of brake percentage to the ECU. The sensors output signal had gitter or bounce in the signal at both on and off brake pedal. I.e When I let off the Brake pedal the signal would go to 0% initially but then bounce between 0-5% brake position reading several times. Below is the link to the sensor I bought from Ricambi and it came to Michigan in like 2-3 days. Also since the sensor is $41 and it only takes 15 mins to install it seems like a no brainer. I've never had the failure since.
Frank

https://www.ricambiamerica.com/car-diagrams/ferrari/v6-v8/458-group/458-spider-13/complete-pedal-board-unit.html?mode=split

 

^^^ditto what @Fv81587 said.

 

UPDATE: After driving the car a couple times, the warning lights came back. I'm gonna pull it out and test it. If it doesn't test good, I'll order the brake switch and see if that does it.

 

UPDATE: tested the brake switch and ended up replacing it since it was cheap enough to try. unfortunately, no luck. I keep getting a P2140 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "E" / "F" Voltage Correlation). Even if I clear it with the autel, it immediately comes back. I noticed on the scanner live data that the "pedal %" was different for the 2 readings. The scanner didn't differentiate right/left bank so I'm not sure which one is which.

Question for my fellow FC members: Does anyone have a digital copy of the 458 workshop manual? I've looked around online for one I can download but no luck. If you do and would be willing to send me a copy, please PM me. It would be greatly appreciated.

 

Found mine on eBay for $6 instant download. 2000+ pages in pdf. Only thing I don’t like is the referenced sections aren’t hot linked so it takes longer to manually find all relevant info.

I actually came across a free download the other day but didn’t save the site or try downloading. Seemed legit though because I could flip thru pages in the inset pdf viewer on the site.

 

Gotcha. I was able to obtain a copy. Let the diagnosis begin...

 

No idea what happened but I pulled the pedal out this afternoon hoping to find an wiring schematic but wasnt able to find one. When I put the pedal back in and scanned the car again, the pedal readings matched (TPS %, prior to pulling them, they showed diff by 3-4%) so I cleared the code and it's ran right ever since. I drove it around tonight and seems to be ok. I dont know what exactly happened but maybe unplugging the pedal reset something. Crossing my fingers the electrical gremlins stay away, haha. Thanks again everyone for the help. Always appreciated.