My Daytona almost burned down

It hurts but could have been so much worse... I've always wondered why my 400i and so many cars of that era do have ignition directly fed by the ignition key without any relay or fuse. This just convinced me to retrofit a fuse!

 

So glad you caught it in time. I always carry two fire extinguishers in my Daytona when I take it out just in case. I've never thought of an electrical fire. Have been more concerned with the fuel lines that go to the carbs and around the front that hang over the engine. Just got done replacing these hoses this year including the ones in the rear. Better check my electrics. Best of luck to you. Drew

 

Electrical fires typically are slow fires, and emit lots of smoke from burning insulation. You saw flames. That indicates a fuel fire. Also, notice the under hood pad in the pictures, as the entire hood pad is damaged. That would be a true indication of a fuel fire, as fuel fires will go upward, because of heat that rises. If it was electrical, it would be limited to the areas of the electrical wires getting very hot, and not the entire motor compartment. When you turned the key on to start the motor, in all likely hood, the fuel feed hose to the carburetors, or the link hose in the center of the fuel rail leaked, and sprayed fuel every where, and when cranking to start, gas hit an ignition wire, that would arc when wet, and the fire started. It would not be from the fuel return hose at the front of the fuel rail, as there appears to be much more fire damage at the back of the motor, and not the front.
Because you have velocity stacks, the spraying fuel that caught fire, changed the air density, and would cause you to ingest that fuel mixture, or burned fuel/ smoke into the carbs, and that would give you the funny noise that you mentioned, as the motor would have a difficult time in compressing that fuel/ smoke mixture.
Gary Bobileff

 

I have an old friend whose sage advice is replace every rubber bit you can find when you buy a vintage car. He gained that wisdom after his 275 GTB caught fire on the George Washington bridge. He had to beat out the fire with his suit jacket.

 

WoW great explanation !! Like a crime scene !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I had a Daytona in our shop that tried to burn. The AMP gauge wire touched the metal bracket holding the gauge and started looking for a ground. The dash panel is aluminum but mounted in fiberglass. It found the speedo cable and the battery drained all of its power through that circuit. It melted the aluminum speedo housing and drippied molten aluminum on the carpet. Very large cloud of smoke was hanging in the shop the next morning. This happened over a weekend. Luckily is just cost the speedo, cable, carpet set, & insulation for the AMP gauge wires.
I am glad OP's car will be saved. That was very close to and end all.

 

Glad you saved what you did. Obviously could’ve been much worse.

 

Great news that the Daytona was saved.

A word of caution is that the powder used in dry powder extinguishers can be corrosive to metals and especially if allowed to react with water and or moisture in the air. Not sure how best to address the situation but advise getting advice quickly so that preservation of any important electrical and electronics can be undertaken sooner rather than later.

At the very least the battery should be removed, the vehicle should be stored somewhere cool and dry. The powder maybe vacuumed up, but it gets everywhere. I want to say that something like WD40 maybe a good preservative for electronics etc in the short term, but you really need a plan.

And good luck.

 

Sorry to hear/see this, but even before reading Gary’s well constructed explanation, when initially looking at OP’s photos, my first thought was “fuel fire !”, but obviously this incident will also require replacement of electrical wiring.

As for the pre-existing condition ofthe wiring, personally (& professionally) I would recommend replacing the entire harness, not only because of the fire damage, but if it’s still original and never completely inspected -> reconditioned/serviced or replaced within last 20 or so years, it’s +/-50 years old and likely few decades past its care-free or safe-to-use date.
And I would apply same recommendation to any 20-30+ year old vintage car, regardless of make or model (or mileage).

As for any and all fuel related hoses, soft lines, gaskets/seals, etc, I’ve always recommended those to be replaced every 10-15(max) years and again, regardless of make, model or mileage.

P.S. I’m glad (if that’s the right word ?) you, anyone else or the car didn’t suffer anything worse.

 

I only have Halon fire extinguishers in my cars, garage, and home. The dry chemical makes a large mess and if you breathe it in, it will affect your lungs.

 

Good luck in getting everything fixed. Just curious if you always drive with out the air filter?

 

I carry a Halon extinguisher and an Elements fire stick in all of my classic cars for this very reason.

Ferdinand: I’m very glad you saved an important car and I wish you luck in the restoration that she’ll require. Keep us posted with photos and updates.

Alan
N.J.

 

WOW! Glad you could save this beautiful car! Hope insurance will help somewhat.

 

My first encounter w an Elements fire stick.
Pretty impressive, great reviews. TY.

https://elementfire.com/

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