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My DIY exhaust manifold replacement

Discussion in '360/430' started by Joegnsx, Dec 20, 2016.

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  1. Joegnsx

    Joegnsx Formula Junior
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    Dec 1, 2012
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    Joe Gliksman
    #1 Joegnsx, Dec 20, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I know there have been several posts on the exhaust manifold failure and some DIY info. I used all I could find, yet still learned. My car, a 2005, had the manifolds replaced twice by previous owner based on historical data. Most recently in 2011, and apparently MK2's....yes, they fail too!!!

    I started seeing white dust in the engine compartment several months ago. Then, a few weeks ago, I heard ticking, like an out of adjustment valve. Then about 10-days ago, ticking, and an exhaust leak sound when engine was cold, which got worse. I put the car on the lift, and could hear the noise at the exhaust manifold, and could actually see a crack.

    I ordered headers and the insulating blankets from Fabspeed--Travis was great to work with.

    I purchased every 12mm wrench, socket, universal, wobble drive, etc. that Harbor Freight had for sale because the bolts holding the manifold on are virtually impossible to get at--especially the driver side due to the A/C compressor, and both sides have the motor mounts in the way.

    The job requires removing the engine compartment side covers, so you can remove the O2 sensor and temp sensor. Then the under tray of course must come off.
    Now the manifolds--start by pulling 3 bolts (13mm) at exit to the catalysts, then the dreaded 12mm nuts holding the manifold on the block (8 of them). I used every universal, wobble drive, wrench I had to get all the nuts off--took several hours, lots of cussing, and some blood, but once off, the hard part is over.

    The Fabspeed headers go on much easier--better design, and no pre-cats, or metal wrapper.
    I used only one universal, and a wobble to install the new headers.

    Very please--slightly louder than stock, but nice sound, and no fear of future failures!

    I bought the heat blankets--hope to keep engine compartment cooler.
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  2. Joegnsx

    Joegnsx Formula Junior
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    #2 Joegnsx, Dec 20, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. mkzhang

    mkzhang Formula Junior
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    #3 mkzhang, Dec 20, 2016
    Thanks for sharing!

    Can you clarify what you mean by it got worse recently before you spotted the crack?

    And isn't it normal to smell a bit like gasoline when you first start the car?


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  4. Eric C

    Eric C F1 World Champ
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    #4 Eric C, Dec 20, 2016
    At least you didn't break bolts off in the head like I did....
     
  5. LorenzoR

    LorenzoR F1 Rookie
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    #5 LorenzoR, Dec 20, 2016
    That's why im alittle hesitant to do mine myself. What can be done to prevent that
     
  6. Turbotuner20v

    Turbotuner20v Formula Junior

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    #6 Turbotuner20v, Dec 20, 2016
    PB blaster and not side loading the ratchet
     
  7. HIO Silver

    HIO Silver Formula Junior

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    #7 HIO Silver, Dec 20, 2016
    Concur. Same issue with Ford's FE engines (360, 390, 427, and 428s) ...But my penetrant of choice is Kroil.... and a lil prayer.
     
  8. Joegnsx

    Joegnsx Formula Junior
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    #8 Joegnsx, Dec 21, 2016
    The ticking and exhaust leak got louder--especially when the engine was cold.
     
  9. Joegnsx

    Joegnsx Formula Junior
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    #9 Joegnsx, Dec 21, 2016
    I neglected to mention, I used PB Blaster on all nuts and bolts prior to starting the job.
     
  10. Ahmed_Z

    Ahmed_Z Karting
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    #10 Ahmed_Z, Dec 21, 2016
    Do you have any video of what the leak sounded like?
     
  11. Eric C

    Eric C F1 World Champ
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    #11 Eric C, Dec 21, 2016
    I used PB Blaster as well. I broke one on removal and one during install. One at the very front and one at the very rear. I believe these two take the most stress.
     
  12. Turbotuner20v

    Turbotuner20v Formula Junior

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    #12 Turbotuner20v, Dec 21, 2016
    Random video, but it's a ticking at idle. Almost sounds like mechanical clatter. Usually goes away as the motor warms up. If it's really bad you'll hear it while driving away from a stop at a pace proportional to the increase in rpm

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mv5CfNCeP0Y
     
  13. Fabspeed Motorsport

    Fabspeed Motorsport F1 Rookie
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    #13 Fabspeed Motorsport, Dec 21, 2016
    Thank you for allowing me to work with you on this Joe, much appreciated. Glad I got to finally see a picture of the OEM set with some light behind it - you called the crack from day 1!
     
  14. Ahmed_Z

    Ahmed_Z Karting
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    #14 Ahmed_Z, Dec 21, 2016

    Thanks. I don't hear anything like this with my car. I do occasionally see some white dust. And I've seen a "ploom" of dust on hard acceleration when I look in the rearview (twice) Sorry, not trying to hijack this thread but this post got me a little concerned about my own car.
     
  15. Turbotuner20v

    Turbotuner20v Formula Junior

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    #15 Turbotuner20v, Dec 21, 2016
    I would say next cold start leave the engine cover open and start the car, then get out and listen for ticking while the car warms up at high idle. If it's silent, I wouldn't worry. Volume corresponds to size of crack.
     
  16. Joegnsx

    Joegnsx Formula Junior
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    #16 Joegnsx, Dec 21, 2016
    I agree with Turbotuner20V above. I am not trying to increase your concern, but with my car, the dust started several months before the ticking.......I was concerned the whole time.
     
  17. Ahmed_Z

    Ahmed_Z Karting
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    #17 Ahmed_Z, Dec 21, 2016
    I already put my car in storage for the winter so the car is down for a few months anyways. I just bought the car in September from an authorized dealer with a 1 year CPO warranty (not sure if the manifolds are covered under that?). The manifolds were replaced in June 2013 by the dealer where I bought it (I'm assuming with Mk2 manifolds) and only have like 3k miles on them. I'll keep an eye on the white dust and ticking sound when I take the car out in the spring, I really hope nothing is wrong. Thanks for your input guys.
     

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