Thanks, I can try that first. It won’t impede the valve opening? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Curious to see how this all goes. I installed the same sport exhaust a few weeks ago on my F430 and I have the exact same rattle from the drivers side bypass valve. It is the worst when cold and I can also stop it with light finger pressure on the actuator rod. Seems to dissipate when everything is hot. I am awaiting arrival of my Tubi manifolds from Italy and I can’t wait to see the end results here and get to work on mine!
Thanks very much for the effort you put into this thread. Will be very helpful to a lot of folks. Great to see your son involved in the effort!
The exh valve actuator has a big diameter, if u get a box of assorted tension springs ( the type with hooks on) you can try different spring sizes. You can open these with 2 fingers so not heavy duty.
Thank you, hope this helps, it was my point for posting. My valve isn’t closing all the way in its own, it’s coming up a couple mm’s short of the stop. All I have to do is put my finger on the midpoint of the shaft and push it toward the center and it closes fully. It’s like mine is at an angle and tension is keeping it from going that last mm. I’d like to try to lengthen the rod first, as a spring is a secondary fix. Ideally I solve the angle issue, but I’m not interested in modifying the casting. I also noticed the sport exhaust has a fiberglass heat barrier between the valve and the bracket. Sanding that down or eliminating it will get me my extra length. Not sure how impactful the heat will be to life though. I’ve been looking to buy a new diaphragm to work on but having trouble finding it. I’ll post what I learn. The manifolds... they look so great in the car. Hate to put the inner wheel liners back in If you need a couple exhaust studs, hit me up. I have a couple extra new ones I can send you. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Ok, one more minor nitpick on the Ferrari (Tubi) sport exhaust. Where the exhaust slips over the cat pipe, the sport exhaust has 2 sets of cut outs in the pipe to help slip it over and compress over the cat pipe when the band clamp is tightened. But despite where I locate the clamp, I get condensation drips either from the end of the pipe where it meets the cat, or through the expansion slots. Not much water, but I’m a bit OCD if you couldn’t tell, and these drips will cause spots and streaks on the diffuser, annoying me. The stock exhaust didn’t drip at all. I plan to figure something out for this issue as well. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Some PM questions/details I’ll post: 1) I used hi-temp (2600 degrees) nickel antiseize on the exhaust studs, the manifold plug, and the temp sensor bung, as well as on the cat flange bolts. 2) on the replaced studs into the heads, light engine oil. 3) I put in 4 new O2 sensors, they had antiseize on them already. 4) there are only 2 nuts I could get a torque wrench on, so I torqued the rest to about as tight as I could get them but not over tight based on uncalibrated arm force to move the nuts torqued with a torque wrench. Not perfect by any means, but no leaks and not much post thermal cycle tightening required. Most nuts were still tight. 5) 75nm is way too much for the Tubi manifold cat flange. I think it’s aluminum given the weight and thickness, and it deformed a bit at 50nm. I am keeping it at 50, after a heat cycle no leaks. 6) be careful with the copper nuts, they are very soft. 7) o2 sensors were torqued to 50nm 8) manifold nuts are 12mm, bolts/nuts for cats are 13mm, O2 is 22mm (used O2 socket), temp sensor is 17mm. I installed the o2 sensors then routed the wires and connector to avoid twisting the wires. You’ll need a 10mm wrench to remove the connector and wire stays. I did have to heat up both temp sensors with a propane torch to get them off, no signs of antiseize use previously. The O2 sensors on the other hand came out easy. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Awesome read. Congratulations & Thanks for sharing. Mine will probably need this in the coming year. I’ve got the white powder from muffler seams. Totally agree on your F430 is super clean. I need to get detailing Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
To settle the rattle, I decided to add a spring for now until I can source a new vacuum solenoid and extend the arm a bit. The spring was simple enough. Soft carb return spring and a little high temp grease. Works good for now. Image Unavailable, Please Login Non-pro tip: not all of the red in the picture is grease, some is blood. Pricked my finger relentlessly bending and cutting that damn spring. This will be a quick one, no shoes on even... was thinking at the time. Not so smart. Gloves. Shoes. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
For those who ask “how do I know if I have MKII manifolds?” Here’s the part number from mine, stamp is underneath the manifold near the cat. Have to use an articulation extension mirror or pull the oil filter access cover off to see it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Joe, Please don't be offended by my question. Do you have documentation that your most recent oem headers are MkII's? The photo of the manufacturer part # is the 1st I've seen with -L at the end. I have a set of headers in my garage that are supposed to be MkII's and the part # stamped as shown in the attached picture. I've been trying forever to differentiate between the MkI's and MkII's. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi, Not offended at all. Yes I have the service records that state Left and Right MKII headers installed under warranty and this part number. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Calling it a night, didn’t quite get it buttoned up. A little diddy, about the post cat 02 sensors. Whomever designed the wire routing failed, in every way. They took just as long as removing or installing one manifold, with none of the gratification. I had to remove the rear engine cover panels, remove the air/filter intake assy nuts and lift it up, just to be able to touch the 2 10mm and one 8mm bolts on the wire d clamps. It was like taking manifold nuts off, sometimes turning an 8th of a turn at a time. To unplug the post cat sensors, you need to pop the red clamp up then pull it out, getting it out of the metal bracket takes pushing a tab and random wriggling. Image Unavailable, Please Login These ties are reusable, I clamped the lock tab back with needle nose and pushed the tie back through. PITA but I wanted to put the car back exactly or better. Image Unavailable, Please Login Torqued the post cat O2 sensors to 50NM Sprayed the cast aluminum trans with Bio-Kleen Aluminum Kleen, diluted 50% and scrubbed with a nylon brush and rinsed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
I still owe sound clips, but everything is complete. Gave it a few heat cycles and re-torqued. Nothing moved. The only remaining issue I have is a small exhaust leak (and condensate drip) from where the Sport Exhaust mates to the Cat. There are 4 large notches in the cat back pipe that allow it to compress over the cat outlet pipe, but those notches in top and bottoms of the pipe only get covered by the clamp, it’s not 100% leak free. I’m pretty sure this will bother my OCD (condensate streaks on rear diffuser), so I think I have two real choices. 1) weld the pipes. If I ever need to replace a muffler or cat, could get interesting or just expensive. But probability of needing to take it apart is low. 2) disassemble and reassemble using Permatex exhaust sealer liberally on the cat exit pipe. When hot it seals up. Thoughts? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Perhaps, but nothing new to me. On most of the cars I’ve built or have had built, the exhaust was fully welded except at manifold exit flange. Some had cats, some didn’t. I took the sport exhaust off and liberally coated the cat exit pipe with Permatex exhaust sealer. We’ll see 1) if it works, and 2) for how long it lasts. It’s a ceramic based sealer that expands slightly when cured by heat. If this doesn’t hold I’ll try silicone before welding it. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Problem now solved. First I switched to OEM Ferrari clamps (yes, I paid the tax even though they are the same as Walker band clamps) and I was able to get my hands on some 1mm thick strips of 333-E paper. The 333-E paper is used to seal around the catalyst in catalytic converters to prevent bypass. It expands up to 400%. One wrap around the cat pipe and she’s sealed tight. The reason I also changed clamps is because the Sliding bolt style clamp that came with the tubi is better suited to compress silicone hose over steel not stainless to stainless tubes, according to Walker. Here’s a pic of the paper and clamps to use Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
