My First Baldwin B253 Filter Experience

I don't believe that 5 seconds to oil pressure, real or not, is a concern. Let's hear from the consultants, not just us non-experts.

 

It is unusual for a 308. I wonder 2 things though.
1. Is it a real, timed 5 seconds, or does it just seem like 5 seconds.
2. Is it 5 seconds until the oil pressure gauge reacts, or is it 5 seconds until it has oil pressure. They are not the same thing. Too long to get oil pressure is not usually in and of itself a problem. It is sometimes a symptom of a real problem.


Most dry sump motors take a few seconds to get oil pressure. A Daytona after sitting for a few days can take 3 or 4 seconds. Our Lamborghini LM002 is a wet sump and it takes considerably longer than 5 seconds to get oil pressure, always has but when it gets pressure it is so high it is a little scary and its oil filter is not upside down.


I think the upside down oil filter is just distracting you guys. First thing I would do is put a mechanical gauge on it and see how long it is really taking.

 

Brian- Gotcha. Five year old post. Even now.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

It's not like your mains and rods and cam bearings are dry until they get some oil pressure...there is some residual oil on the bearing surfaces. And, at starter cranking rpm and idle rpm there isn't a great need for a lot of pressure. The bottom end (mains and rods) are getting some oiling (splash and through the galleries) before the gauge is registering and it's the mains and rods that are most critical (cams are moving at half-speed). Anything less than 5 seconds I wouldn't worry about....

 

WW Grainger has the B253 filters for about $12

 

You mean someone is wasting time, bandwidth, and who knows what else to save fifty cents on oil filters?

 

o.k; I have the occasion to continue this thread. But I'm sorry to tell, that I now have the first problem with a Baldwin filter.
A simple small leak. Not big, but one or two drops of oil after each drive below the filter housing. I ended up taking off the filter and discovered the problem. A VERY bad welding spot below the filter base gasket which prevented a snug fit of the gasket.
I'm sure a rare occurrence but proof that the Baldwins also aren't perfect as well as the UFIs. Nevertheless I now installed an UFI again.

Best Regards from Germany

Martin

 

Do all of these filters have the stand pipe inside as original to help hold oil in?

 

Even if the filter held oil indefinetly, the oil would still have to make its way up through the cooler, then into the filter so you would not have instant pressure regadless if the filter was full of oil.

I am about to put a mechanical guage on mine to check pressure as I had new lines made - long story don't ask - to the cooler and want to be sure the pressure is correct as I have recieved bad sending units from some suppliers.

 

So why not use UFI? Are Baldwin and UFI comparable, just maybe priced differently? I use UFI but am not afraid of change, what's the reason for Baldwin? Thanks, Dino

 

The main reason for Baldwin is 1/3 cost and by all accounts equal if not prefered.

 

Exactly -- use whichever one you can get at a lower price (dwhite's "1/3" comment applies to the US -- elsewhere the situation may be reversed).

 

This filter was given to me when i bought the car. After doing a major, i installed it and everything was fine untill i had it on the track - Later in the day, i noticed the pressure had suddenly dropped by about 50 %. I came in and let it cool, but the pressure was still low. Limped home and checked the pressure relief, installed a test mechanical gauge and the pressure was still low. Finally pulled the filter and here is what i found::

I will let you decide if you want to save a buck on a fram. Installed a B-253 and all is well.
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^^ Holy crap. IF there was ever a debate, it is now officially over.

 

My only gripe with the Baldwin is the smooth outer surface. With the UFI, you can apply a fitted wrench which helps to torque it down repetively to the same tightness, who knows on the Baldwin. As previously mentioned, a leak has been reported with the Baldwins. I, too, have seepage issues with the Baldwin occassionally. Might be the amount of tightness as it's difficult to judge for me and since I can only use a loop wrench to tighten(which easily can crush) it's always different tightness. That is my concern with them. But....as I'd posted a few years ago, the UFI outer lip rubs on some adjacent housing when I tighten it down and doesn't allow me to fully install and tighten the UFI. Other 89 328s have these filters so I have to assume there is some issue with the adjacent parts or maybe something with the oil filter housing but who knows. Baldwins more streamlined so no problems. It had a Baldwin when purchased and my mechanic recommends them as well. I just wish I had more control on the install, I hand tighten, doesn't seem enough, but can't do much more without crushing the filter. Stress it over the months of driving 'til the next oil/filter change, then repeat. UFI's had a reputation for failure as I understand it as well. performance wise, Baldwin seems to be the one.

I wish Ferrari had the filter in canister system like in BMW's. That makes the most sense to me and predictable torquing on the filter canister then.

Jeff

 

I use a 24" pair of Channelocks TM on the Baldwin........works great.

 

I've always hand tightened any oil filter I've ever put on.
For the Baldwin, I use a strap wrench to get it off.
I've never had a leak issue with Baldwin.