My first F430 DIY oil and filter change

Great and what other type of DIY you have found here. Curious

 

Too bad there are some real He-Men/Charles Atlas wannabees out there who have to torque stuff waayyy too tight. Including wheel lugs, which can be so tight/overtorqued, can even leave one stranded for a while. Nothing like a litle finnesse when its required.

Oh, drain oil out when hot. Let it drain for as long as posible. I give my cars 20-30 minutes.

 

good deal, Joe.

 

Two things to add. If the filter is very hard to get off, sometime stabbing a screwdriver all the way through gives you plenty of leverage, gets messy with oil leakage, but can get the job done. Smearing oil around the rubber seal before replacing the new filter helps to stop leakage and seal damage if accidentally over tightened.

 

I have seen the screwdriver idea work but you are commited once attempted. The strength of the oil filter itself will determine if it works or you need much more serious help.

 

You can get an oil-filter wrench from NAPA for ~ $10 for the kind with a handle, but for a few bucks more you can get one with a 3/8 drive so you can use your ratchet and extension.

Good point about oiling the gasket of the new one. When installing you never use a wrench, just tighten by hand 3/4 turn after the gasket touches the base. Even so they do tighten up with time.

 

Try EBay for the correct wrench, got mine for under $20 shipped.
Also there is a torque value for tightening the filter, as quoted above,
highly advisable to use the factory settings, not just 3/4 more after filter touches base.

These motors and oil system create a lot of psi, especially on start up, so
the filter does need to snugged to factory specs.

I am also going to use the Mobil1 Euro spec 0/40 on the next change, found some
local for $38 a jug, bought 2, should be good for my 360.

 

right- never ever tighten using a wrench. Not necessary, and many times its stated to NOT use a wrench on the filter.

Oh- and dont forget to partially fill the filter with new oil before screwing it on, if it allows you to do this (some filters are totally horizontal, making a mess if filled then screwed on- not knowing if thats the case with this particular ferrari)

 

0-40 made mine leak, I went back to 15w-50.

 

Do people actually use accurate torque when putting the new filter on? As in using a torque wrench?

 

Jeff... Where did you develop leaks with the lower viscosity oil?

AK

 

I did on my 360. Super easy with the special filter tool. Followed all torque recommendations and realized that the rear plug torque spec guaranteed stripped threads.

 

Good question, I think from one of the big expensive lines running from the oil res to the engine.

 

I did an oil change on my Scud last week and I think I have a leak. Now keep in mind I have done several 360 and 430 oil changes without a problem and even one complete oil screen change. Everything went fine as far as I could tell and the drain plugs were torqued to the correct number. I spilled a bit of oil when I was filling the oil fill on top of the engine and so I thought maybe it was just residual getting warm and dripping down after one short drive but there is just way too much oil on the ground. I have not gotten under the car yet but it appears to be coming from the 19 mm back drain plug area. Is there any way a copper crush washer could be defective? Has anyone else ever had a leak after and oil change?

 

I have performed 100s of oil services. Yes, the copper washer can be defective. I have had it happen a few times. I look them over before I install them. I nick or dent will cause an issue.

 

Why wouldn't you?

 

Well the crazy thing is these copper washers came from a dealership.

 

I have torque wrench that is used just for oil filters. So, yes people actually use accurate torque when putting the new filter on.

 

Not a fan of copper washers due to their hardness. I usually prefer aluminum washers. You can anneal the copper washers a little before use, which removes some of the surface hardness and makes them a bit nicer to work with.

For oil changes on my Toyotas, I like the factory blue fiber washers and have switched to using those over copper or aluminum.

Ray

 

Ugh, I hate the Toyota factory aluminum and blue fiber "sandwich" washers. They stick to the oil pan and I have to pry them off with a scraper or screwdriver. After dealing with them for years, (got my 07 Tundra in 2010) and getting fed up with my Toyota dealer wanting close to $2 each for them, I bought a bag of 100 aluminum washers on Amazon for like $11 last year. Now they come off cleanly with the drain bolt.

 

Seen that as well. I only do two or three oil changes on my BMW a year, but over the past 20 years I have come across mangled up looking copper washer in the filter kit, as well as no washer. I have since ordered and keep a couple spare copper washers and a spare filter housing nitrile 0-ring in my garage spares. I ended up doing that for all my cars, truck and motorcycle...cause you always run into this on a weekend or evening when everything is closed.