my first slow down light =( | FerrariChat

my first slow down light =(

Discussion in '360/430' started by Tim1137, May 31, 2014.

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  1. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Driving into work on this fine Saturday morning on the highway, and I got the dreaded slow down light. lost all power of course, and limped the car to my work.

    I pulled codes using a generic OBD2 reader, and the only code I come up with is a P0432 - main cat efficiency below threshold. Would a cat efficiency code really cause the slowdown light? I've had that cat efficiency code come up previously and never got a slow down light in the past?
     
  2. charlesw

    charlesw Rookie

    Feb 25, 2007
    27
    Hi Tim1137,
    Just got rid of SD on my 360 by replacing part 179278 which is cat ECU.
    Before replacing, I checked the contact points of Thermacouple connecting to cat ECU.
    My situation could be different from yours. The SD occur somtimes during start up or after driving for 10 mins or so. It first started flickering then constant SD.
    Aldous Voice has a wide commentary on 360 SD. Very helpful tips in his blog.
    Hope this helps
     
  3. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    I just inspected the bank 2 cat ECU, all "looks" normal. It has green electrical packing on it which appears to be in good condition. ( Not sure if green indicates it is the newer or older design) I inspected the cat ECU plug itself, and the plug for the thermocouple - again both appear normal.

    Hmmm.... Any official way to test either component?
     
  4. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 13, 2009
    16,528
    Charleston, SC
    Full Name:
    Curt
    Switch the box to the other side. See if the code switches to P0422. If it does, bad box.. if it doesn't I'd check the thermocouple on that bank with a multimeter and compare to the other side.
     
  5. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Just switched boxes, going to drive it this afternoon.

    I cleared the code, but the CEL wont go off. I'll let you know what happens afterwards!

    I checked voltage and resistance at both thermocouples too... zero resistance between the two wires, and like .1 or .2 volts between the two wires... (while exhaust was lukewarm at best) I think the idea is they are both similar, so chances are not the problem.
     
  6. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Also, just tried doing the "ECU reset" with the switch in the front trunk. Still won't turn the CEL off!
     
  7. mikelong

    mikelong Karting

    Dec 17, 2012
    115
    Tim, I take it that this is a 360?
    CEL light won't go off because there is probably another code in the other ECU. You have two ecu in your car. Generic OBD2 reader will not pick it up.
    I struggle on this when I first got my car. I kept questioning myself, if there is no code then CEL light should go off, why is it ON!!!!. Well, come to find out there is another code from the other ECU...
    Check it again with a better OBD2 scanner, Tim.
     
  8. charlesw

    charlesw Rookie

    Feb 25, 2007
    27
    There must be moisture in the boxes! Green is the newer model part. Check your 02 sensors as well part no. 180915 and also part no. 182837. The cat ECU and the sensors tend to go bad. Also, if SD happens after long period of driving, then it could be the ignition coils. There are instances also like your gas cap is not properly tighened or you might have top up too much cylinder oil, these may trigger SD light.
     
  9. charlesw

    charlesw Rookie

    Feb 25, 2007
    27
    #9 charlesw, May 31, 2014
    Last edited: May 31, 2014
    Tim, if you flip your Cat ECU, you have to do a proper reset, meaning turning the truck switch off and leave overnight. Insert car key for 30secs, re-insert and turn to on and leave for 30secs. Turn off and take key out and wait another 30 secs. Thereafter start your car after check OK. Let it idle for 10mins.
    Specific driving instructions. Drive car in 3rd or 4th gear 2000-2500rpm for 3 n half miles. Shift to 4th gear and increase speed to 4500rpm for 30 secs.Then decrease engine speed to 2000 without braking shifting into neutral without braking. Gently stop the car and let it idle for 5 mins without touching throttle. Switch engine off and remove key for 5 mins. Restart engine and drive normally for 10 mins.
    If you still have SD from this remapping, then it is difinitely defective parts.
     
  10. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    I tried the reset again, worked this time after the battery being disconnected for about an hour. No CEL now. With the cat ECU's flip flopped I am going to drive the car all this afternoon and when the CEL comes back - rescan and see if the code moved with the cat ecu from bank 2 over to bank 1.

    I'll keep everyone updated with my progress! Hopefully its simply this cat ECU!

    P.S. I thought the green packed cat ECU's were the older design??
     
  11. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Well the CEL came back already after just idling for a few minutes, this time something different.

    P1446 cat temperature sensor 1.

    This is now Bank 1 if I am not mistaken right? Now my "problem" has moved to bank 1, although now it is a different code, do you think the cat ecu is the culprit since I just moved it over to bank 1?
     
  12. mikelong

    mikelong Karting

    Dec 17, 2012
    115
    Tim. May I ask if you look at both ecu and not just one? Your bank 1 stored p1446, does this mean bank 2 have no code?
    The "slow down" light you got to start out with is obviously relate to p1446. High temp in cat converter system will trigger "slow down" light.
    I would suggest you don't condeem anything just yet, Ferrari parts aren't cheap. There is a way to look at temp sensor failure in general. (temperature in relation with resistance of sensor during failure).
    Swapping from bank1 to bank2 is a good idea to isolate failed part/component, but it only accurate if you can look at dual data. Meaning both ECU (at the same time would be best) Yes, I know, without an sd2 is almost difficult. But, you rather pay a shop for those freeze frame data then mistakenly replace part(s) that you don't need.
     
  13. charlesw

    charlesw Rookie

    Feb 25, 2007
    27
    Tim, I had the same scenario where after reset and all the specific instructions, the SD appeared within 10 mins. I did not have a generic reader neither did I go to a shop with a OBDII. After a few resets flip flopping cat ecu and spark plug changes and with the help of Aldous Voice, I took a gamble and replace both ECU and no SD light so far. There is no way after 10 mins of driving, the cats will hit 1700deg. in temp. Will the SD light return, I don't know but its doing fine so far. Hope this helps.
     
  14. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 13, 2009
    16,528
    Charleston, SC
    Full Name:
    Curt
    Id move it back and if it follows.. Replace it if it were me. no way the error follows twice and it reached max temp in a few min. Cat isn't glowing is it?
     
  15. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    I'm going to order one new cat ECU Monday.... most like from Ricambi, unless the price from my local dealer is close and they have it in stock - I'd like to get this installed asap.

    I had the car idling for 10 minutes tops when the code came back, definitely not enough time to heat up the cat that much. I do check after long drives for glowing cats as I know it can be an issue, and I've never had it happen to me so I think its safe to say my cats are not actually overheating.
     
  16. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Well I decided instead of trying a $400 dollar part, I wanted a professional diagnosis done. I dropped the car off yesterday at IFS in Easton MA. Hopefully will hear from them today with the (good hopefully) news....

    I figured a couple hundred dollars in diagnostic work is a safer bet than gambling on a $400 part.
     
  17. mikelong

    mikelong Karting

    Dec 17, 2012
    115
    I thought I am the only one fear of paying high price on my toy...LOL, glad you feel the same. This is the reason why I keep encourage everyone not to be a "SWAP TECH", there is always a way to diagnose and narrow down your car problem, sometimes its not easy because lack of knowlege and equipement...But needless to say, there are lots of intellent individual from this forum can help, and I thank everyone that participate....
    Well, good luck to you buddy...Your finding and sharing well help us all.
    THANK YOU AGAIN...
     
  18. dantm

    dantm Formula 3

    Nov 1, 2003
    1,103
    YYZ, BOS, SFO
    Full Name:
    Dan B.
    I have an extra CAT ecu if you need it...cheap.
     
  19. Tim1137

    Tim1137 Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2011
    817
    Providence - Boston
    Full Name:
    Tim
    IFS diagnosed the car as having both faulty cat ECU's, not just one as I had thought. Well worth the money to have them look at the car because I would have been chasing my tail if I had only replaced the one on my own! They took great care of me on the price too. I'll be back for sure!

    Got the car back yesterday and started enjoying her again! Just in time for a weekend full of 80 degree weather!
     
  20. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 13, 2009
    16,528
    Charleston, SC
    Full Name:
    Curt
    Nice. Thanks for the update!
     
  21. Need4Spd

    Need4Spd F1 Veteran

    Feb 24, 2007
    6,678
    Silicon Valley
    Excellent! When I first got my car, I had this same problem and it was tough to diagnose because the ECUs did not fail to the point of throwing any codes. All I got was a Slow Down that only flickered intermittently when driving really hard. But if I continued to drive hard, it would then come on steady, and at the same time dial back the engine power. But reading the temp with a remote thermometer revealed no signs of cat overheating (which is what the Slow Down light is supposed to protect against). I finally traced the problem to the ECUs; both needed replacement, and one of the thermocouples in the cats needed replacement, too. Problem solved.
     

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