I need help in many directions with this car. My first need is fuel pump specs. The original pumps melted down and seized. Anyway, I thought if I posted pix, someone would take the time to look thru their WSM and find the specs of the original pump, namely the Pounds per square inch and Liters per hour or gallons per hour. Thank you Rich Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
More pix, and the reason I believe it was parked in the first place. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
be patient, take your time, enjoy the process and know that you have the support of a great community here to help along the way. To see this car rise again will be a rewarding process.
Actually, I found it's state very interesting. As far as condition, I have restored many cars that were far far worse. I restored a 70 6 pac super bee that was so bad it became a full time job for 18 months to finish it. That car was sad, but it was worth the resto. It had all the right options. It made this one seem like a beauty queen. I excitedly showed this to my wife. We both thought it was an unusual sight to find such a neglected Ferrari. Yes, it sat outside for a long time. If I can make it start and run, the rest is easy. It is just a matter of time and effort. I enjoy the process, so, I can't lose. The fuel pump is just amazing. I realize this is common on Mondial and 348s. The price to buy factory parts is obscene. I will use my skills of fabricating, and get it going. I will post pix of progress. The good news is if I decide to go forward, it gets a full new interior and new top. New tires, battery and a motor out ( timing belts have aged out) the car has 33k miles. I got it from the 2nd owner who bought it in 1999. Again, if anyone can give me actual fuel pump specs, it will make sourcing parts easier. Thank you Rich
Since Ferrari are subject to spontaneous combustion don't cut corners. Looks like it has been sitting. Replace ALL fuel lines, Fuel pump and accumulator, Injectors, Remove and clean tanks. Do everything top to bottom and front to back. A rust bubble or tear in the seat will not leave you sit. A tiny speck of dirt will and a spray from an old hose creates a roadside barbecue. looks like a cool project. I wish it were mine.
Ferrari 348 Mondial 3 4T Fuel Pump 140317 Bosch | eBay here is an ebay listing with some part numbers that might be usefull in finding some cross reference units or finding the specs via bosh itself.
http://image.slidesharecdn.com/boschfuelpumpweb-140624133550-phpapp02/95/bosch-fuel-pumpweb-18-638.jpg?cb=1403616972
That looks like a nice project. May I ask how much you paid for this one? I'm not very fond on inferior parts on a Ferrari. My experience you have often side effects when it concerns mechanical or electrical parts or that they need to be modified to be fitted. Fiat / Lancia Thema : 7580213 / 5985559 / 605460914429209 / 44606460
I would find a mechanic/shop that buys from World-Pac. That company sells oem parts and can, possibly, supply most of the stuff would need to get it running. Not sure but it looks like the FI parts are all Bosch and, if so, are probably found on other vehicles. Keep us informed on your progress. Thanks and great luck to you.
One thing I can tell you is never EVER use Alpha clutch hydraulics of any kind. They cost 1/10 the Ferrari thing, and they DO WORK. At parade speeds. I ran mine up to 7,000 rpm one 90F day and I am convinced they induced an hydraulic resonance that destroyed every single part in the system. It was quite a mess. However, the week Italian wiring to the starter solenoid is easily fixed for $25 Bosch WR1 intermediate relay. The week Italian wiring is plenty strong enough to activate the little relay which you can situated right near the great big red solenoid wire near the starter. Its one of the more common 'Exotic Car Anxieties' that can be eliminated easily. Some of us also add 8oz of either 2cycl oil or even Marvel Mystery Oil to every fuel fill up. Mechanical fuel injection and all the various things that might benefit from a light coating of oil. Going on 14,000 miles in my case. And I run it hard. The cooling system is like a nightmare from a light water nuclear reactor. Two or three dozen hose clamps? My information is the silicon hoses are more likely to leak then regular ones. And in my particular case I have depressurized the system just for a margin of pressure safety. I use 60/40 glycol water, and have never added a drop of coolant in three years. And like I say. I drive hard, often approaching 230F oil temp {no oil cooler fan}. The clutch hydraulics are a simple nightmare beyond just the Alpha stuff. The master is a serious menace. I finally used a pair of 12 inch 90 degree pliers to simply man handle the cotter key out of the yolk under the dash, but the pin did not have enough space up against the underside dash so I man handled it out as well. Then put it back in upside down and used a self locking cotter key. Poking around blind for THAT hole took better part of an hour. Your injector grommets and perhaps the entire system is plugged up from aging crud. Its a normal Bosch K-Jet from the era but not everyone knows of these older things. Mine works quite well but the injector grommets were hard and leaking some air. It was easier for me to just put some power steering stop leak on them and they just tightened right up after a few weeks. Lots of stuff like that with that poor wreck you have. But you have the advantage of low expectations. Most likely the drive train mechanicals are just fine. The CV joint boots might be cracked and thats a major hexameter wrench headache. Lots of rust blaster and titanium hex wrenches might be in order. The CV joints themselves might be fine, might need grease. I replaced all four of mine but it was expensive. One other thing. I got a serious oil leak over the passenger side front exhaust port. Either the main seal or a cam seal. So much smoke I worried it would catch fire. So I simply put in one of each and every stop leak sold at the local Autozone and have not had a problem in the last two years. There is some evidence this might be a problem with running pure synthetic oil. These cars came with a blend. So now I use one gallon of synthetic and one of normal mineral oil. I think I used 15-40 last time. I do not think the weight matters very much. I do not represent myself as any sort of expert. These are simply my unskilled observations after 3 years, 14,000 miles of mountain driving. I will soon be on my third set of tires. And I am scheduled for a 1/2 mile special invitation drag race in May. I think the Prugna Metallica ones are a special build and so I have made my own trap and the trap times will have the final say.
I use one oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil per gallon of ethanol free 90 octane fuel and 20-50 Valvoline racing oil, no leaks, starts first time, every time and runs like a scalded dog. My Italian, race driver, Ferrari mechanic was ecstatic when I told him I used MMO, he said it lubes the fuel injection system, valves and upper cylinders. Might be snake oil but the old aircraft guys swear by it too. Alden
Yikes, Is that a Sandy car? Either way, kudos for saving her. When dialed in the t is a dream machine. Dave
Rich, my hats off for saving this puppy. You'll sure will have your work on it. Would you mind sending me the VIN? I'm collecting these for my Mondial database. Best Jurgen
Thank you all for the helpful links and encouragement. It is a project, so I consider it personal entertainment. I am not comfortable posting VIN or the price I paid, but I did not "steal" it price wise, a hint, I paid VERY low 5 digits. My friend who is an insurance adjuster found it, and put the deal together. I bought it sight unseen ( and man is it worse than he described). The price however was low enough where I was willing to gamble, and I don't think I did horrible. If I saw it first, I would have offered a few thousand less with conviction. The PO said he has the tonneau and tool kit, and a lot of other items. That will reduce the sting if I need to bail out. Currently, I am addressing the fuel system, which appears to be a sequential set up. I will send the injectors out for cleaning and change the regulators and fuel filters using parts cross reference. I can live my life without paying for the yellow box when possible. The F car mark up is obscene. Really. The fuel pump o ring is 50 dollars list, with a search, you can find the same quality ( probably better) for 2.58 plus shipping. That is incredible. I wish I could be in the room when the Ferrari team develops the price for replacement parts. It surely would be a great comedy skit. For some reason, I felt less abused when paying the Ferrari tax on my 430 parts. Thanks for the help and encouragement I will report my progress and post pix as they become relevant. Rich
