My review. MD Clutches Hub, Flywheel and sprung clutch.

Well this is my official review of the custom flywheel and clutch.

First off when I received the boxes from Andrew (MD) I was very excited to see the quality was superb.
All of their products looked top notch right off the bat.

It was a bit of a battle to get time in the garage (cigarzman you already know) with family constantly interrupting me, god bless them it took me way longer then it should have to complete this project, but my little ones come first, of course.

Torque values, were a bugger via the manual. You have to convert everything as most of you know, but the decimal comma thing is silly.

RECOMMENDED:
I was able to get everything apart with a electric impact gun. I had one in air tools, but no longer have a compressor, so bought an electric Milwaukee (great brand). FYI, never use an impact gun to install anything, only to remove, even then there is times when common sense should apply and remove by hand anyway (smaller stuff). Some of you are a lot more versed in being a techs on cars then others on here, I write these best practices to help everyone that is not as savvy, so no offense to you battle hardened techs that are like "Oh my god man, I know that -guy"..

So I can pass along what I know.

I recommend a good torque wrench in LOW values; as some are as low as 2,5 daNM or (18.43 ft lb).
The thing is, when torque is 18 etc ft lb required, you don't really want to use a TR that is used for 10-150 ft lb. Lower the spectrum is more inaccurate on Chinese built tools. I have std tools that are not MAC etc..and your "high quality TR" is prob a piece of **** these days as most are made in Communist China. That is another topic altogether - the piss poor quality these days of Chinese made goods. The more $ money for the tool, generally the better it will behave and perform.

MD QUALITY:

Going back to MD, I did have a problem with the hub adapter, that Andrew quickly rectified and all was well. He even threw in another high dollar part to make it all ok (Hill Engineering rear nut). He is a stand up guy and really was a good support base, emailing me within 24 hours every time. (He is in the UK).

TOOLS:

The build. You will need standard tools for all of this, and a SPECIAL TOOL to get off the REAR NUT.
Ricambi has the tool.
I was lucky enough to have a machinest in my neighborhood whip me up one in 20 minutes from a 1 1/2" socket!!! Lucky me, Randy the BMW custom race KING from bimmerforums.com lives literally down the street. He is an amazing mechanic as well.

THE CLUTCH and PERFORMANCE:

The clutch is very close (if not exact) to what the Ferrari 360 has. It is a sprung clutch. This alleviates having to have the dual mass, and performs very similar. I was impressed with the zippy performance of the new clutch. It really feels "lighter" on the spool up. The grab is nice and even.
I thought it might grab to quick compared to the d mass, but this really is not the case. On the same hand, it definitely feels quicker on the short end of the release. Of course this is hard to describe unless you drive one, then the other as I did. The difference is there. And you don't have to mess with anymore grease, to me priceless. Overall it has the feel more related to a race clutch, but the ease of the normal "organic" clutch is prevalent.

I recommend this for any F355 or 348.

 

Also there are some great vids by MD on youtube. How to dismantle everything since the manual really covers zilch on this.

 

It really does seem to have a more fluid rev response, IMO

 

I don't see why not. You can contact him directly through the site.

 

pics
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problems uploading, first Android was acting up (updates to the Note 5) and now updates for the software to read the phone on the PC for the Samsung driver...damn technology...
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Yes, my work bench/table has RC stuff everywhere...
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the new one. Had my clutch guy "OK" my pressure plate. I didn't like the look of it, but he said it was still within P, and was GTG.
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back in the car.
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