My'Chick' has issues | FerrariChat

My'Chick' has issues

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Ingenere, Jun 7, 2016.

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  1. Ingenere

    Ingenere F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Dec 11, 2001
    6,457
    On the Limit
    Full Name:
    Dino
    I have been chasing a few things with my Stradale. I have been doing my own service work since the '70's. I'm good mechanically, but electrical challenges have never been a strong point... and I think I've got electrical. I'll run some of the symptoms and solutions and see what you guys think.

    1. I have had a 'hot start' problem for a couple of years. If the car is hot and I try to start it, it just clicks (like a bad solenoid). Car cools off (20-30 mins), starts and runs fine.

    I replied the starter, battery, relay and finally when the alternator failed, that as well. My TR and 348 had similar problems that were due to weak wiring that could be worked around with the addition of a relay. When this fix was tried with the CS, it didn't like it. I finally bought a new wire harness that runs the starter and alternator, and the hot start seems to be gone. However, there is a new issue.

    Now, when restarting the car it cranks for ~1-2 sec, stops, cranks, stops, cranks, stops, etc. When it eventually catches, it seems to be in limp mode.

    When the car sits for a while it will start and run fine. This is a bit frustrating to say the least.

    2. The dreaded Slow Down Light. I've replaced both ECU's and thermocouples and its still a problem. Cats are not overheated.

    Any direction would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2003
    43,879
    26.806311,-81.755805
    Full Name:
    Dave M.
    Wow, interesting.

    I have no suggestions, just posting to subscribe while the gurus here delve into the problem.

    D
     
  3. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,671
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    I know that when the battery level drops below a minimum and the CS is started, it will start in limp mode and you have to disconnect the battery, let it sit, and reset the ECU to get it out of limp mode. It is an indication that your battery / starter / cable / ground is having problems and causing excessive voltage drops. Likely the cause of start - stop - start - stop.

    The way to figure that out is to measure the voltage drop from the battery to a few points along the main 12V cable leading to the starter and see where the biggest voltage drop occurs. Fix that.

    The SDL light when it comes on will cause a CEL. You will need to clear the computer with a OBD2 scanner after you fix your TCU. If it repeats, you have to monitor the analog signal coming out of the TCU to see if it is truly active, and then figure out why. Grounding is almost always a problem.

    Good luck.
     
  4. Ingenere

    Ingenere F1 Veteran
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    Dec 11, 2001
    6,457
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    Dino
    Thanks for the reply. Funny that you mention the ground. I did check the ground for the new cable install and it was fine. As I was thinking through this, I remembered I had AAA put a battery in the car about a year ago. For fun, I checked the terminals and the ground side was not even tightened down and loose. So, I got that all snugged up, but it didn't seem to make a difference. I've thought about putting a charger on the battery to just top it up, as it probably wasn't the best for the battery to have a loose ground cable for a year.
     
  5. netman

    netman Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2008
    1,905
    OC SoCal
    did you clean the connections. being loose for so long there may be ark residual between the battery and leads
     
  6. Ingenere

    Ingenere F1 Veteran
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    Yes, I cleaned them.
     
  7. AD170

    AD170 Karting

    Jul 18, 2014
    79
    The slowdown light sounds like an electrical issue. The ECU is a three-wire system, power, ground and signal. Green is power, black ground and violet is signal. On start up cold signal is .5volts and starts to climbing to 1.5v at 500 degrees F. Key on engine off the power should be very close to battery voltage. Ground should be max .03v voltage drop between connector and harness ground. Make sure you check ground voltage drop between connector ground and its respective ECM ground. The harnesses are subject to heat and now aging. Engine running voltage drop checks can be compared between ECU's. High resistance on the power or ground side of the circuit will cause the signal voltage to be low and the slowdown light will come on at initial start-up. The ECM see's this as a fault causing the slowdown light.
     
  8. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 13, 2009
    16,597
    Charleston, SC
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    Curt
    Check the grounds in the engine bay. Take off engine panels, clean them..

    + can be fine, but if the - is off or sporadic, signal is going to be funky imho..

    I'd start there...
     
  9. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
    6,097
    Bugtussle
    All chicks have issues. ;)
     
  10. Ingenere

    Ingenere F1 Veteran
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    Dec 11, 2001
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    Dino
    I've been trying to find a schematic that shows the whole system and locations but I've come up empty. Do you know where I could find that info?

    Yup! Especially the hot ones!
     
  11. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    pm me your email, i'll shoot you a 360 spider ground map, if that helps
     

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