Here are the symptoms: Idles OK, but not great. Not missing. Won't take throttle cold. Will rev, but not happy to, requires very light throttle to do so. Little to no power. Here's what I've checked: Cam timing spot on Fuel pressure (static) at 40lbs Distributors ok Compression consistent at around 150 Spark plugs mostly tan, getting fire Cold start checked by disconnecting/connecting Aux air valve good Sprayed brake cleaner liberally checking for vacuum leaks, no love there. Exhaust free, not stopped up. CPS clean, magnetic. I think that covers it all. I'm out of ideas! Dammit, I've been trying for two weeks to diagnose this thing and getting nowhere. I hope I've missed something idiotic!
If this was an non-computer-controlled ignition, I'd suggest badly retarded ignition timing. I'd say the same thing now but I have no idea how that can happen on computer-controlled ignition.
If a US version 328, have you checked to see if the frequency valve is buzzing/vibrating when the fuel pump is running (it should). If not, you'd need to look at the Protection Relay.
Verify you are getting spark to all the cylinders. look for problems with ignition wires / plug extenders.
You, sir, are my personal hero for the day! I hereby accord to you all the rights and privileges thereof! Explanation: In my shadetree wisdom, I checked the frequency valve for operation by powering it and blowing thru it. It worked, as far as that goes. Not being expert in 328, I wasn't aware of the presence of a relay controlling its operation. Upon finding the relay per your advice, located attached to the underside of the finishing panel on the right side of the trunk (it's a Mondial 3.2). It was not plugged in. It was laying in the fenderwell! Voila! The good news....I've been thru (pretty much) all the systems in the car, and they are operating properly now. Thanks again Steve
Glad to give you a small nudge in a direction that matched your symptom well (all 8 cyl seeming to run, but just uber-weakly). I can tell you that your report of "it fell out" is a new first for us, and seems impossible , and, many times, Mechanics wrongly go after resetting the mixture. Two things every K-Jet with Lambda Owner should learn to do (even if they don't how to use a screwdriver and are dressed in a tuxedo): 1. Touch the frequency valve to calibrate yourself for when it's working correctly (so you can quickly confirm/deny when you are having a problem), and 2. unplug the safety switch and turn "on" the key to get the fuel pump running without the engine running -- can tell you instantly (by sound) whether or not the fuel pump is working.
The frequency valve is a "controllable leak" from the lower chamber of the fuel distributor back to the tank. During normal warm-running, it gets a 50% duty cycle from the ECU so is open 50% of the time. When the ECU wants to add richness, it increases the duty cycle to the FV = FV open more often = lowers the lower chamber pressure = lowers the upper chamber pressure = increases the pressure drop across the slit = more fuel flows thru the slit for the same size slit opening (i.e., more fuel is added for the same amount of air entering the engine). To go lean, the opposite of all those events occur. When there's no +12V power from the Protection Relay to run the ECU (which runs the FV) = the FV stays closed all the time = lower chamber pressure much higher = upper chamber pressure much higher = pressure difference across the slit much lower = less fuel flow for same size slit opening = way, way lean = runs very weakly, if at all. (The bottom line is if no FV operation = way too lean).
But remember that, as far as the 3,2 liter engine goes, there are three different variants; and as said by Steve in his first sentence, "if this this a US variant..." means that it won't apply to the "Euro" engine, which is Non-cat (so no Lambda probe) I don't think there is a frequency valve on the Euro engine (non cat), is it, Steve? On the Swiss engine with Cat, which has another K-Jet variant, there is a thing looking like a frequency valve but fitted vertically instead of horizontally and in the same place, that I think is called a "fuel pressure regulator"; its purpose is probably more or less the same? Rgds
If the problem is just when the car is cold, I would say the warmup regulator gone, for an Euro car. US cars have so many stupid antipollution devices that I don't know. ciao
Correct. Euro 3.2 = K-Jet without Lambda (has WUR, no frequency valve, no protection relay) US 3.2 = K-Jet with Lambda (has WUR, frequency valve, and protection relay) Late Swiss 3.2 = KE3-Jet (has EHA instead of frequency valve+WUR combination and has protection relay)
Where is the Protection Relay located? Is it that big relay in the passenger side trunk area on a 328?
I had this happen to me as well, I don't have a clamp on the relay, so it would just hang ... so I made a clamp, about 10 years ago, have not had a problem since.
