Need Advise: Dino Starter Acting Up... Again

I don't know if there are any inherent issues with the 246 starter. My 308 just started to go. Pulled it and had it rebuilt for $170. Why not do same?
Philip

 

I have a euro 71 246 gt. What do you mean it does not engage until 2 or 3 try?

 

My "new" rebuilt 246 starter does the same thing. Starts up fine cold, needs to try 2 or 3 times when starting up after the car has been run for awhile (BUT, KNOCK ON MY WOODEN HEAD, it WILL RESTART). There is no obvious reason.....

Mark

 

Pietro.

Rebuild will last a while, but then same stuff happens. Been through that with the '72.

I put in the Superformance starter, cranks faster, starts better, but, if I get it really hot, it too will occasionally not crank first try. (Happend twice in 6 months.)

Mechanic has shimmed and re-shimmed, still can happen. I have found that putting the car in gear, giving the flywheel a little bump, can sometimes solve the problem.

I do like the superformance starter quite a bit, much stronger crank.

DM

 

Pietro-
I had similar problems & was told that quite often it is the ignition switch getting old & worn out. I bought a replacement one from a BMW parts place (switch is from a BWW2002 and was less than $100) and installed it & so far no problems. There are other Fchatters who are investigating modifying gear reduction starters from Gustafson Machine shop (make lots of replacement starters for British cars). I have 1 on a Healey & 1 on a Jag & they work great. I think they are $150-200 bucks(approx). So stay tuned!

 

I had this same thing happen on my Dino in 1994 at the Monterey event after driving it down from Seattle. By the end of the weekend I had to have the valets at the Marriott push start me for a 15 hour non-shutoff drive back. Yes, that means "Hot" fill-ups at the gas station.

Upon returning to Seattle, I investigated and found three things:
1) The previous owner's maintenance record shows a history of starting problems and new starter installed
2) I noticed my Dino fouls plugs fast ~1000 miles
3) The starter motor contacts were dirty and I cleaned them

It now starts right up and has been trusty ever since if I keep the plugs clean.
and
I ALWAYS carry a spark plug cleaning kit and a spare set of plugs with me.

This last year at the Pacific region wine event they fouled again after a long drive down the Oregon Coast to Sonoma County (yes, I had gone over 1000 miles since cleaning/replacing plugs). I had the same non-start of the engine occur just as the group was departing for a drive through the wine country that I didn't want to miss. I quickly pulled out the bottle of alcohol I use for cleaning the plugs and dumped it down the carbs and it started.

Photo:
http://www.ferraripacific.org/pastevents/Photo%20Album/2004/2004-06-12%20Rafanelli%20Ride/2004_06_12_Rafanelli_2.jpg

 

Install MSD system.
Change alternator pulley to over speed.
Install 150 amp alternator.
Install Gell Cell Marine/aircraft battery.
Install Real starter motor.
Save original parts.
Enjoy.
If car over heats.
Repalce radiator with a Griffen rad.
Use Real Electric Fans.
Over speed water pump with pulleys.
Save original parts.
Enjoy.

 

Nap has some good ideas
and
I should have mentioned that I had replaced my ignition system with the perma-tune housed in a Marelli AEC-103A.
http://www.perma-tune.com/P-Ferrari.html



BTW, most know that MSD stands for Multipl Spark Discharge.

Here is what Lenny of PermaTune says about that:
http://www.perma-tune.com/about-us.html
Benefits of Perma-Tune ignition systems
An ignition system is the under-the-hood component that orchestrates the process of burning the fuel-air mixture in the combustion chamber of an engine. The ignition system is the very heart of an internal combustion engine because it directs the conversion of fuel to power. An engine only gets one chance to start the combustion of the fuel-air mixture, so efficient performance is critical. As an analogy, think of lighting your back yard BBQ: once the flame has started, holding the match to the charcoal longer, or throwing more matches at it, will not help after the fire has already been lit. Other manufacturers’ systems create multiple sparks or use long-duration sparks in the hope of scavenging unburned fuel-air molecules they failed to ignite the first time around. This strategy is an ineffective, after-the-fact fix for poor initial design that has been marketed as a “benefit”.

 

Put in a 1 or 2 guage Positive cable, solder the cable ends, when hot, resistance goes way up, thats why you want a big high cable to the starter and a big ground cable also.

 

Scott
Be that as it may the only thing that can keep my MK-IV and P 3/4 from fouling is a MSD. Even with your system you still get fouled plugs?
Best

 

There are two problems(maybe three). Plugs, NGK BPR7EIX or other Platinum/Iridium small center electrode plug. Bendix, lube it one way or another. WD-40 or something. Ignition switch. After burning out 3 switches @ $50-75 each I installed a diode across the starter solenoid to stop the arc that burned out the starter switch. No broblems after 10 years and 60,000 miles.

 

So that's how you've been able to keep her running so long.

Hey John, mind if I come up and learn as much as I can about running a Dino LONG TERM? I'm serious. Lunch or dinner is on me.

Manny

 

You're correct,
I do get fouled plugs and the back exterior panel of the car gets very dark from the exhaust.
Runs rich, but cylinders 2&4 start bf'ing if I try to lean it out

 

is the heat shield in place between the headers and the starter ?

 

No heat shield on mine, but I always try to open the engine bonnet when parking to let heat out. I've also remove the engine bonnet rain trays that cover the bonnet vent holes