Need help with cam seals and gaskets

OK, thanks to the great posts on this site I have begun my major. 2002 modena w/ 44k miles. This car ran fantastic, and leaked nothing, no oil smell, and nothing on the under tray. I did see a little weeping residue on the rear cam covers, but nothing wet.


After removing the cam belt covers I noticed there was old accumulated thick black oil below the left and right exhaust cam seals. From some prior threads the cam cover gaskets are also highly suspect as the front portion is most likely to leak. So here are the questions:


1- Normally i would pop off the cam pulley, pull out the seal, and put a new one in. When I look at the 4 bolts holding on the pulley to the cam I noticed that unlike all other cars I have worked on, the pulley doesn’t seem to lock into a keyway or the like. There are slotted holes in the pulley, and the pulley can apparently be adjusted (and potentially rotate if not installed properly). I could mark the placement of the bolts and remove them but I am very hesitant. Also would I have to degree the cams? Service manual procedure for seal replacement notes pulling out the cam, slipping off the seal over the cam lobes, and slipping on the new one and leaving the pulley on the cam.


2- If I pull out the cam should I replace the exhaust variators. This is a 2002 and I have verified it came with the updated variators. So the car has 44K miles. (~70k km) and the life expectancy of the variators is 72k miles (100k km). It’s 70% used, and Technically it could wait but imagine if it failed and i just had these suckers in my hands and put them back in. should I just replace them? Ok if I do I will have to degree the cams. I have never degreed cams and I have read many procedures and despite my anxiety I think I could do it.


3- I have only purchased new tensioner bearings, when would you’all replace the actual hydraulic tensioners.


4- I have noticed what appears to be old oil leakage from the top of the cam covers above the 6th and less so 5th cylinders, with a thin film across ½ the cover. If this was the center seal spark plug there would be lots of oil accumulated in the spark plug hole (not), and if it were the upper portion of the cam cover gasket I believe it would leak down more centrally under the intake manifold (no evidence). Also If this is the upper portion of the gasket (under the intake rail) it would have to be leaking up the lip of the cam cover (against gravity) then down the top of the cam cover. anything else that may be causing this pattern? I am going to do the cam cover gaskets anyway. Here is a video.

thanks -Ray

 

Sorry, couldn't upload the video. Was going to try a shorter one tomorrow.

Ray


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Will the cams need to be degreed after?

Thanks


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Some pics for now... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

Thanks


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Ok looked for the timing marks, used camera, and even tried a scope, spun the motor just in case I was missing something---!!! not there. I guess Giovanni had a bad day and forgot to mark the cams. Anyone heard of this?


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guys, thanks for the replies. took some time to get together and modify the "stuff" to complete the job. to answer my own questions above:

1-I took off the pulleys after aligning the rear factory cam marks, marking the bolt placement on the pulley. Once the valve covers were off The cam seals were came right out. Also I was able to see rear factory cam marks that I couldn't see with the valve covers on.

2-didn't consider replacing the variators as I didn't remove the cams. will kick the can down the road, as I have a 2002 car with the upgraded variators with still some life left in them.

3-left hydraulic tensioner replaced for campaign, right was within spec.

4- will obviously replace the valve cover gaskets, however the majority of the the oil staining on the top of the cover was probably from a leaking breather hose (see the breather in my last pic above. Just used a new piece of hose, and new clamps.

so my question for those esteemed members that have degreed the 360 engine:
I used the rather simple procedure in the workshop manual i.e.

Intake 1.6mm +/-0.12 mm difference between dial reading at closed position to TDC at crossover phase
exhaust - 0.6mm +/-0.08mm (difference between dial reading at 9 degrees BTDC to closed)

after the most minute adjustment of a couple of the cams the readings are now spot on.

Considering the opening and closing phase degreeing method: When I check the opening which should be at 10 degrees before TDC (I know this is cam degrees so equal to 20 degrees BTDC on the crank degree wheel) but I get ~34 degrees and exhaust is likewise off. I assume that because these are hydraulic tappets which cant be used to degree using opening and closing phase method. Is that correct? I assume there is some "give"in the hydraulic component thus this method can't be used. so am I all set?

thanks - Ray

 

Brian, I was hoping u would reply, many thanks. I wasn't saying they couldn't be degreed with the hydraulic tappets as the workshop manual describes setting the cams with the hydraulic lifters in situ. I followed this procedure.

When I tried to double check using the more traditional o/c phase method it was off. Does anyone use the o/c method to double check?

I threw in the hydraulic tappet theory as a possible explanation for why the o/c method was off.


Thoughts appreciated, -Ray

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Is there anybody out there....

-roger waters


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