Need help with charging system light?

Oh you guys are a HOOT! Glad to be providing so much entertainment...haha. Didn't realize the newbies were only allowed in to provide the comedy.....

As sh*tty as I'm feelin' I was pretty happy with getting as far as I did yesterday. If I wasn't working on that car I was in bed. Hopefully today I will go down and try to get that sheild of the back of the alternator to make the electrical tests. But I'm not even sure I can get my hands in there....may need to rent a midget...haha.

Sure wish you guys lived on the "correct" coast!

 

Midday update.....Rv5 (Ross V) took over one the progress. He got the shield off....said my hands never would've fit. We unplugged the negative lead from the battery to the car? Is that connector of the negative circuit stock? Took the wire off the D+ post. It had a spade connector right there at the alternator, but we removed the nut anyway. Is that connector stock? Then plugged the battery back in, turned the key on, and shorted that wire to ground. That dash light came on as never before! haha

So I guess we're on to the electrical test. To review....we should re-connect the D+ wire? or leave it off? Then measure voltage on that same post as a function of rpm....or at least over 1000rpm.

As soon as the Lakers game is over of course.....

 

Lakers won....cool!

Ok, tested it both ways. Without the 12 volts connected to the D+ post I can see a volt or a volt and a half at low revving...seems to vary slightly with rpm. Now that we know that wire is continuous this is the same measuremt I made from inside the car on the alternator side of the bulb socket (with the bulb out). Then we connected the wire again. With the key on I got 12 volts at the D+ post.....and with the engine running with low revving it stayed constant at just slightly less than 11 volts....no real change with rpm.

Time to pull it?

 

I just noticed that mount for the alternator is removable....thank god....so I guess it can squeeze out. We'll start looking for a rebuild house. But what about that water line? The coolant is probably good, based on recent services, but we could change it anyway. Should we just pull that water tube out and forge ahead? Or do we need to know more now before taking that step?

 

Hey guys.....the alternator is totally disconnected....just waiting to hear how we should handle that water line.....then out it comes!

 

Alternator is out!

 

Hey Guys,

Took it in to a place that was recommended to us today. The guy knew all about the 85A upgrade and the pulley issue. We'll let you know the results of the bench test tomorrow.

 

The alternator house reports "No Charge" as the result of the bench test. Should have it back in a day or so.....$165 with the upgrade.

 

Hey Steve,

I'll look for one of those fittings today....sounds like the standard backflush fitting. The rebuild with upgrade is $165. This car uses a standard antifreeze I assume (my NSX doesn't)?

Hey David,

Ahhh yes....The A-Team...one of my favs! Ever notice how even though every show used lots and lots of automatic weapons in every direction, that no one ever got shot? HaHa The car supposedly had recent service, uncluding all the belts, and even though we're having some trouble getting the actual paperwork from the independent in Fresno that alternator belt does look brand spankin new....I can see Gates written on the very shiny surface. Would it be as easy for me to see the cam belts to verify? Those are the ones we're really worried about.

Ross

 

Alternator going back in...dash light now works....will finish tomorrow......

 

Ok guys....the alternator is back in. The dash light came on with the key of course and stayed on when it started...but when we reved it and that puppy went out....cool! Measured 14.6 volts at the battery!

You guys are amazing!!!

Thanks again...have a hunch we're gonna need you a lot more...haha....Ross

p.s. maybe I'll get my first drive soon.....