Need some help! (Cam end bolt)

Both bolts are the same part # should unscrew the same way.

Try an impact wrench (might be a tight fit though)

 

rost-off ice might help from Wurth.

Penetrating oil that creeps up the bolt, and also is cold, might give you the little shrink you need to budge it.

I assume this is not one of those spots where you want to put a torch to the bolt to try and free it.

DM
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

the wurth product may be helpful - if you try it - please post your results. shrinking a bolt may cause the bolt head to clamp down even harder. the wurth flyer shows a stud shrinking inside of a nut - a different proposition. it may still help in your application - it seems to be worth a try. please post any results!

penetrating oil will likely not get past the o-ring - but it sure can't hurt to be under the bolt head. Kroil is by far my favorite!

heating the bolt/ o-ring makes this an all or nothing proposition.

good luck, Vince

 

Way too many things to damage with the torch. I would keep the heat in reserve (I doubt you'll need it).

 

perhaps secure the cam as close as possible to the impact - the length of cam may be adding some 'spring' into the system which dampens the impact's effectiveness. presumably you plan to pull the covers(?)

is your impact big enough--- back to the old 'get a bigger hammer'.

your biggest exposure is an improperly or inadequately secured cam.

bigger is better - Vince

 

Hard to believe this didn't do it!

Are the lock tabs bent down? (shouldn't matter with the "gun").

In my experience, a powerful gun and plenty of air pressure (my compressor goes to 175 psi) will "hit" the fastener hard enough to loosen just about anything. It's possible that someone assembled it with red (or heaven forbid green) Loctite. You may need to warm it up a bit to help it along but I would stay with the impact.

You mentioned valve adjustment and timing belts so you are removing the cams. You could possibly extract the studs holding the distributor flange in place and then remove it along with the cam and put the cam in a vise where you could work on the stubborn bolt with impunity.

 

Since you are this deep, remove the camcaps, take the cam shaft out, wrap it in towels, put the whole thing into a bench vise, crank up the 1/2 ingersol rand impact wrench 1o 125psi, blast away. if that does not do it, then you may want to heat up that end (now that it is in a vise) with a torch to loosen the red loctite someone surely put in there.

I replaced head studs on the Porsche 911 and heat always helps.

 

rent a 3/4" impact

do not hit it at TDC - presumably this is a v8 & all the crank throws can be positioned 90 degrees to tdc.

if you spin the cam, you won't bang pistons with the crank 90 degrees off tdc
(pls confirm my statement before u try this - I am not a v8 guy)

you are getting into a torque regime that may cause ancillary damage - better to pull the cams and apply heat. loctite high strength is becoming more likely

in -or- out of the engine - an impact is far more effective and less damaging than a big cheater bar.

any chance Fcar ever put a left handed thread in that location? perhaps a later parts book shows the 'updated' version with a standard thread? get lots of input here - i can't help.

it sounds like an 'oh ****' is on the way - use caution and think it thru...

Rgds,
Vince

 

No chance for that. The other side already came out with a right handed bolt. And, all 4 cams rotate in the same direction (The belts move in the same direction) so they all have to have the same bolts. This is not like the Wheel bearing bolt where one turns left, and the other side turns right (thanks Ferrari).

Jim, I understand the aversion of removing the cam, but it is really easy. Just do it. This is like trying to adjust the distributor points inside the car (just take out the dizzy and do it on the bench). You go crazy and your body hurts after all the contortion you put it through.

 

Jim, are you going the right way? Or should i say, the left way?


The only "trick" i can think of, is go right then a quick left to break loose.

Good luck buddy.

 

I have never had a cam bolt I could not remove. Many impact wrenches are no up to their claimed rating. many owners never put oil in their impact wrenches. 1) Do not remove the shaft because you have a better chance of bending the shaft or damaging it in a vise 2) use light pressure in inch pounds to clamp a matchbook cover in each cam cap to lock down the shaft. People will tell you all the time of cracking cam caps but I have never seen anyone with a brain damage their caps doing this. I've used this method and promoted it for 30+ years. 3) oil the impact wrench and spin it up for about 10 seconds 4) do not us heat on a cam because it can anneal the metal which will change metal properties and shaft wear in a very bad way. I am the king of heat and this is one place I never use it. 5) never use a big breaker bar because it puts torques on the shaft in bad places because people often do not support the point of rotation well and just crank on the breaker bar handle. This is a good way to bend things. 6) sometimes you can use the T-belt to assist you by locking down the cog with the belt. 7) Sometimes you can grab a shaft by the opposite end. 8) sometimes you can grab a shaft by the end closest to the bolt you are trying to remove but be careful because slipping off can sometimes hit a lobe and score it. If you have to go this far two people help. Grabing close to the bolt is better and puts less stress on the shaft. 9) the impact gun is the only way to go and their is a big difference with a good quality USA made well lubricated tool. Hope this helps.

 

I guess I don't understand your engine configuration. I never did have to remover any studs to take the cam cover off a GT4. Good luck.

 

Perhaps this will make things easier to visualize.

Apparently part #24 in the lower drawing is the problem child.

Looks like there's just a couple 8mm studs holding the assembly in place (part #58 in upper drawing) otherwise the flange just comes out with the cam (if this really becomes necessary). You could probably double-nut them and they'll unscrew from the head.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Making progress there.

In my experience, this type of lock washer often develops a ripple at the tab junction when each tab is bent back to an open configuration.
When the tab is being bent back it bends at a point just beside the line it bent on when originally bent into its closed configuration. (hope this makes sense)
Have found on other motors that this ripple can have a locking effect as the bolt flats rotate bringing the point between two flats across this ripple.
My daddy taught me to hammer flat the lock washer bend zone after flattening the tabs. I use a brass drift or thin punch to make sure the washer is as flat as possible before moving on to rotating the bolt in question.

Good luck. I'm sure you'll soon have it out.

 

I Would try applying some heat with a hot air gun.....not too agressive for this situation...

 

Job well done!
Rgds,
Vince