New 360/F430 F1 Tool- Actuator Lever Alignment (aka "How a Pro Shop Saves $1000")

Now if you guys would just make a GOOD socket for the bolt/pin on 360 T.O. bearings life would be looking pretty good in 360 gearbox land.

 

In production as we speak !


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When is it necessary to check the alignment? Only when there is wear and tear of the actuator tip?

 

That's great Paul and Daniel. Got anything else cool in the works.

Also thanks for all your great stuff you guys make.

 

I have not seen any measurable wear on the finger or selector rods. You can check the alignment through SD2 diagnostics, also not a bad idea to re-set when you have the actuator off as when doing a clutch.

 

Thanks for the reply. I did not know there is an actuator alignment parameter page on the SD2.

I have had the actuator off numerous times on my 360 and 430 Challenge cars to bleed the actuator, change clutch, etc.. Only adjustment my mechanics have done afterwards is setting the PIS with SD3. I'll have to ask them to check this then.

What sort of symptoms will a misaligned actuator cause? Once my 430C was stuck in gear at the end of a practice session, but then all is OK after it cooled down. Could this be a symptom of slight actuator misalignment?

 

Same here, no real detectable wear in those areas. Had a couple of higher mileage 360's with wear in the nose that caused issues with the position sensors though. Nice tool, all the same. However, I'm looking forward to getting myself one of those sockets for the throw-out bearing bolts. The top one of the two can be a real pain....

 

@348paul nice tool and the instructions are clear, but what is the purpose of the circled hole and the circled protrusion? (The protrusion prevents the tool from being used in a manual transmission car adjustment, unless the protrusion is shaved off). Thanks!



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why does it want to prevent manual actuator to be aligned?

 

Because the ball detent pin (the ball which positions the shaft into neutral) is on the opposite side of the shaft in manual as compared to the F1 and casting around the detent pin collides with the shown protrusion if you try to use this tool on the manual car.

It seems Ferrari does not have a corresponding tool for the manual cars and that the manual actuator plate has been designed as not serviceable (like the detent pin breaking apart on a removal to clean etc) and Ferrari expects people to simply replace the actuator mechanism with a new one in case of a problem. My take is that if someone wants to disassemble and reassemble the manual actuator with a high precision, the above tool should be used with that protrusion removed. Unless I'm missing something, hence my questions.

 

Ok, I've tested this F1 tool on both F1 and manual cars and in conclusion it is a tool for BOTH (so the name of the tool is rather misleading). There is no interference and nothing needs to be shaved as I originally thought. In manual cars the protrusion is supposed to go on the shaft entry side of the actuator and can be used to align/secure the first arm on the shaft.

I still don't see a use for that hole in the corner of the tool, but maybe it does not matter.

 

Question ...is it really necessary to have that precision on a.manual since there aren't any sensors

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Good question.

In F1 a computer does final calibration and if parts are significantly out of alignment they would likely not calibrate properly, so a proper starting point looks like a must have. F1 and manual use different actuator shafts - in F1 there is no natural resting point for the "middle finger" and in manual there is a groove which pre-positions finger within a few degrees so it's impossible to screw up badly when assembling it. Plus in manual a person can test gear engagement and also adjust the cables to compensate. So with standard mechanic tools and a properly adjusted actuator as a reference I think a sufficient precision can be obtained.

Maybe experts can chime in with more details which way they go. (Since those are quite reliable parts I don't think many people disassemble and reassemble anyway)

I just like things to be precise, so I'm glad that this F1 tool also works for manual.

 

just tried this on a manual actoator I am trying to fix

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oh, anyone know how to remove the black metals (moving parts) hanging inside of the silver metal?

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