Hi everyone, I recently purchased an '03 360 Modena F1. As a long time car enthusiast, I've had my share of cars - mostly BMW but a few 911's (997) and even an Acura NSX. The market seemed to be right on the 360's right now so I jumped right in. In any event, this forum has been instrumental in helping guide my purchasing decision. FerrariChat seems to be a great community from what I've seen thus far. I will certainly post some pics once the weather gets a bit nicer here in Northern NJ. Right now, the car is not going to see the light of day anytime soon. The car is an '03 F1 Red/Tan. I have a couple of questions that I've searched for but haven't seemed to find the answers on.. please excuse my lack of knowledge.. I'm a member of many other car forums and I know how annoying it is to see the same questions asked over and over.. so I apologize in advance if these have been answered. 1. My E60 M5 has the SMG transmission. Although the SMG is a computer-controlled clutch/F1 style trans, it's much different in operation than Ferrari's F1. Case in point - I've noticed that when I come to a stop at a light and I am in first gear, after about 5 - 6 seconds, the car switches to neutral - is this normal operation? 2. The car has lots of carbon fiber pieces. I'm not a huge fan of carbon fiber - and would prefer to switch some of the components back to stock. (the engine parts particuarly, including the air filter covers). If anyone is interested in swapping, I may have a decent amount of carbon fiber available - PM me for details for what I have. I'd really like to get rid of my carbon fiber shift paddles and find the original aluminum ones. 3. The car has an aftermarket Alpine radio in it. I'd like to go back to a stock unit for originality sake, however the OEM wiring harness was cut (idiots) - am I SOL on this one? I presume so but I just can't seem to find a proper radio for the car - not that I really care, since I won't be listening to it anyway. 4. Oil level - I checked the oil while the car was off - the reading is just at the minimum level. Should the car be running when the oil is checked? 5. Do the 360 keys have immobilizers built into them or are they just standard keys with the immobilizer being the alarm fob? 6. I'd like to find a good independent shop in Northern NJ who knows these cars well. Any advice would be appreciated. 7. There is no CD changer in the car - although there is an opening for one. I'm not sure if the original owner removed the CD changer or the cover was lost. I found a CD changer cover on eBay - can I simply purchase this and mount it up? I don't have plans to install one. Finally - found this little document in the owners manual - does anyone know what this is for? Thanks guys - and sorry for all the questions - I look forward to meeting some of you at some local meets. Image Unavailable, Please Login
1. My E60 M5 has the SMG transmission. Although the SMG is a computer-controlled clutch/F1 style trans, it's much different in operation than Ferrari's F1. Case in point - I've noticed that when I come to a stop at a light and I am in first gear, after about 5 - 6 seconds, the car switches to neutral - is this normal operation? If your foot is off the brake it will go into neutral. 4. Oil level - I checked the oil while the car was off - the reading is just at the minimum level. Should the car be running when the oil is checked? Read the manual. Car should be running and at operating temperature before checking the oil level. Someone else can help answer your other questions. Good luck with the car.
to check oil level make sure eng is at normal operationg temp with oil temp at normal range ck the oillevel while eng is at idle,should be between min and max,if low add 1/4 of a qt at a time while engine on.on oil use 5/40 syn i rec royal purple or red line.good luck on the car and enjoy in good health
Welcome to the club!!! When checking the oil level, only let the cap sit on the threaded filler. Do Not Screw Down as this will give the wrong reading. There is a wealth of info on this site. Enjoy that puppy and drive her...
That paper should have a second piece of paper attached behind it. That is the Alarm PIN code that you will need to start your car without a fob or to reprogram the fobs (in some cases). Do not loose them.
Thanks for the welcome and advice thus far. Yes, the site is indeed quite informative. Regarding the piece of paper, it's two-part and perforated and has not been opened. I have no plans of losing it - or anything else that came with the car for that matter. Unfortunately, I was reading that in order to purchase/program new fobs, you need to have a Red Master fob - I was only given a single key and fob with the car. I'll see if I can post some photos later tonite. Can't wait for the spring.
Go look in The Tri-State region thread for events and get togethers. Cars and Crossants is an informal gathering in Chatham starting back up in the spring. Also FCA events. As for shops there are several Classic Coach in Elizabeth, Arena motors, and others which I seem to forget now. Looking forward to meeting you at an event or drive.
I am going through the key + fobs issues right now Welcome to the club The keys can be duplicated for cheap and you should do it right away. The fobs you have to decide: 1) order a new set from the dealer and program it OR (this will cost about $550 to $650 for 3 fobs) 2) clone what you have (this maybe about $80 - $150 / each key) There are many many threats on this topic already. You can do the search or call me (I sent you a PM) if you want to discuss.
If you would like to switch some carbon with me I would give you my stock parts. do you have any pics of the carbon fiber that you have ?? i have all the oem parts. I also have an oem radio that i have when i put the oem scuderia radio in my car so if your interested let me know, i am located in manhattan so since your looking for a shop in northern nj i am assuming your close to manhattan.
Congratulations Ted!! Is this the car from Austin that Paul checked out for you. Let's see some pics please -Ji
Congrats Ted, I remember you were interested in my 2004 360.... enjoy your new car in good health... Let's see some pics..
Here a few poor garage pics. I almost guilty taking such poor photos. Good ones to come soon. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Congrats on the car! Looking forward to meeting the car/you at one of the local events... Check tri-state regional section of F-chat- in the warmer weather there have been informal gatherings in the parking lot of some bakery in Chatham- all sorts of cars show up- it's typically on a Saturday or Sunday morning relatively early 9am or so which doesn't screw up the rest of the day but allows a bunch of car nuts to hang out for a bit!
Thanks to everyone. I'll try to take some better pics this weekend. Regarding the Carbon Fiber parts, after some research I've decided it's better to put them in the F/S section or on eBay. They seem to be quite expensive. I'll update the thread with a link to the items when I put them F/S.
What do you have for the carbon fiber parts in the engine compartment? I'll trade you my perfect condition air boxes for your carbon parts. Please call me at (904)-514-8760 David
Regarding your question on the oil level- I would check it with the engine as warm as possible (after a nice long drive for instance) and then per the manual you park on level ground with motor running and cap resting on the neck, not screwed in....carefull as you'll be reaching over a hot muffler. Anyway, I would not fill the oil to the full mark- put it somewhere between max and min, say at 2/3s or something. When I got my car the oil was recently changed by someone and the car was over-filled (360's, well any car shoudn't be overfileld). I got the car good and warm on a nice drive and had to use a turkey baster to pull out about 1 quart of oil....remember that hot muffler I was telling you about? No I didn't get burned but I was very careful between not trying to and also not trying to spill a drop of oil on the motor to keep her clean. Anyway, the oil actually expands enough that there is a significant difference between the oil reading with cooler oil and fully operating temp oil...you don't specifiy what other 911's you owned besides the 997, but if you had the air cooled 911s you'll be familiar- big dry sump oil capacity means a bunch of variance between cold and hot and the need to check the level w/running motor. By the way, some of that carbon fiber stuff is expensive, so make sure you know the value.
Yes, as I've learned recently. Unfortunately I'm just not a big fan of it. I am going to end up selling most of it except the airbox covers in the engine - which I actually don't mind and think look better than the factory aluminum ones.
Yes- it's a personal taste thing- I'd do the same thing as you, except I'd probably sell the airbox covers too...I'm a big stock-car guy (except regarding the tubi ) By the way, I have gotten some driving in recently- the salt is pretty much off the roads. I just don't push the car 100% as the car is running on summer tires, but being as we have coupes, I can turn the heat on and leave the windows cracked to hear the motor. I got my car in October and put it away when the salt came, but the past 2 weeks or so couldn't hold out any longer. One more thing- if you go to the tri-state regional area of f-chat there are details of independants in our area. They include: Auto Elite, Fort Lee, NJ Vinny 201-947-2371 Arena Motors Hasbrouk Heights, NJ Steve 201-288-2003 Classic Coach, Elizabeth NJ 908-352-3939 Independant Motor Cars, Short Hills, NJ 973-376-7888 New Vernon Coach, Morristown, NJ Steve 973-425-0700 I haven't had any service done to my car yet- was going to get full fluid and transmission oil changed and everything looked over by Vinny at Auto Elite but the snow came and I told him I'd schedule something in the spring...
Great to know, thanks for the shop references. I'll probably give one of these guys a call - just for a fresh oil change before spring hits (even though it was just done a thousand miles ago). I too prefer things stock, the way the cars came from the factory. I'm pretty fanatical so I don't think I'll be taking the car out any time before spring - well *maybe* a quick spin around the block here and there since, like you, I probably won't be able to resist. OK - back to searching.. I mean, work.. LOL
The other thing is it's going to be in the 20's and 30's- at least the past 2 weekends when I drove it the temp was in the high 30's low 40's....don't think I'd go as fast as I did if it were 20 degrees out! I'll have to see how I feel this weekend if there is no salt on the roads- these are just quick 20 minute drives to get bagles for the family or coffee....I have no time during the week to drive the car (and very little on the weekends for that matter), but if I can jump out before the kids wake up I can do my little runs for weekend breakfast By the way, the oil should be changed every year regardless of mileage- not sure when it was done on your car last. If you car is due for one now, it's not going to be a big deal of course to wait until spring...
It is, yes guys thanks for your help. Will post more pics soon. As mentioned, if you ever need something up here in the NJ/NY area, let me know. Thanks again,
