So I've been searching like mad here, I'm going to overhaul my A/C system and want to replace the 36 year old front to back compressor hoses. I read a thread on how to physically do it but before doing so I need some new hoses. I understand that most of the A/C components are off tbw shelf but I don't know about the hoses. From what I read you basically attach the new hoses to the old ones and pull them through the frame. But I don't know what length hoses to get or what fittings to have put on the ends. I assume I can get these made up at an A/C shop and not buy them through one of the Ferrari parts places. Any direction would be appreciated.
You can buy the hose and the fittings from various on-line suppliers. Just measure what you need and add 15% to that order that many feet. Attach the fittings yourself; it's easy. Any a/c shop can do the same thing if you'd rather not do it. Here's a link to Arizona Mobile Air's page on hose. To the left you will see a link to fittings as well. I have purchased from them as well as other "stores." http://www.ackits.com/c/Barrier/Barrier+Hose+-+Bulk.html
Ahhhh that's where I was confused, I didn't know you could put the fittings.on yourself. I thought you need a special machine. Like hydraulic hose. Now I things make sense. For the other off the shelf parts I suppose I can start removing them and going to the local shops to get the off the shelf parts. Cheers
I've taken my a/c lines for other cars to the local hydraulics shop, where they can remove the fittings and put them on the newer hose. They use your ends, new compression clamps similar to the factory setup, and if they do it right they'll index the ends to make sure they have the same orientation as they did on the original. That last bit is especially important on shorter hoses, where they might not otherwise be able to be twisted into position. If you have someone re-make them. Make notes about the orientation of the ends before they take them apart. --Woody
You can pull the old hoses out to get a good measurement as long as you tie a pull rope to them to pull the new hoses back in.
Don't forget that your local Caterpiller dealership is a past master at a/c & hydrolic hoses and fittings..it really is the basis of their repair busines, and many times they can do it while you wait, at very fair price..you will be just amazed at the number of fittings these boys keep in stock..after all..to a heavy equipment operator, time is way bigger $$$$$ that you will ever spend on your little darling F-car..I hope that this is of some value to you, and good luck...Jacques.
Do not pull the old hose out and use string. Trying to put the connections onto new hose, and then pulling it thru will make the job extremely difficult. There is a much easier way. You need to remove the front and rear wheel liners, the gas tank, the heater cover and hose to the fan behind the front wheel well. Get the hoses out laying into each wheel well so they are basically straight front to back. You have to cut off the front an rear connections. Use and in-line splice fitting for the size of hose you are replacing (sorry, can't recall off hand - I think #10 and #8) and splice the old/new hose together (you do not need to use the clamp that is included in the kit - only the splice - as you pull the splice will grab and lock in place). http://www.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/588149-air-conditioning-hose-splice-kit-by-factory-air-part-12312.html Grease up as much of the old hose as you can with liquid soap, and the new hose. Have one person pull on the old hose and another push on the new and feed it thru the car. If it takes you more than 2m you're doing something wrong - serious, this is what I did and it took me and my brother 2 minutes to finish this part of the job. For new fittings, you might be able to rent a crimp tool to get the new fittings in place or take it to a shop to make those 4-fittings for you in car (the rental option is better b/c you want to have the engine cover off to make access easier - not necessary, but make life better). Try to get everything back together as far as possible, including the compressor installed prior to putting the fittings back on the rear side. Also, you should replace the dryer and smaller lines up front (these can be done prior to install) and take this opportunity to install new fill ports up front instead of in the back by the engine where it's hot and hard to reach. Once you get the compressor installed, loop the hoses in back so you can swing the compressor out of the way for the next 30k service and avoid having to purge and recharge the system. Also, put some kind of padding (old water hose works well) between the new hose and gas tank and anywhere else the hose might rub on the frame/chassis of the car.
Thanks Sean, that's exactly the dirrection I needed. Should I also be doing a flush to the system afterwards as well as a leak check? I'm not sure when the last time the system was actually working. As far as I know the compressor hasn't been on the car since 2004, before that who knows. Cheers
"Ok so the fittings do need to be put in by someone else. " No, they do not. I have put ac fittings on many hoses. Here are some: http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=224/category_id=98/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd224.htm As noted, run your hose first, THEN put on the fittings. If you flush, do not flush the compressor or the new dryer or the new expansion valve. If you are converting from R12 to anything else, change the oil in the compressor to be compatible to the new refrigerant.
I had my fittings put on new hose before hand and then pulled the hose through with a rope. With the fuel tank out and the front wheel well out, it's almost a straight shot. No binding, pinching or other obstruction. It pulled through in seconds. The cost of having the new hose put on the existing fittings was a third of what it was going to cost me to buy a quality crimping tool.
I'm sticking with R12. I'll be able to delve into this more in a week. I'll report back in. Thanks for all the advice.
You don't need a crimping tool - Aeroquip ac fittings work just like their hyd fittings - a couple of wrenches is all you need. No reason to fool with crimping anything and the fittings are reusable with a new insert which is cheap/easily available. Crimped fittings are cheaper for the manufacturer which is why car companies use them on oem systems.
Plenty of good advice. I learned something here. I would not discount the usefulness of using a local hydraulics shop in your area (redundancy?). I did and even though you will do much as a DIY, its still nice toi have the local guys to be there. Why mail order stuff from acroos the country? I mean, I also got stuff from AC Kits, but real hard to find stuff. Hoses are everywhere. Good luck. Oh, Stick with R12 unless you have made some improvements to the efficiency of your system.....
I have a couple of additional questions I know how to pull the new hose through. I can make a good guess on the length of hose I will need. What I dont know is: What the ID and OD of the hose should be? Are there different types of A/C hose (I will also be staying with R12)? Are there different qualities of A/C hose?
Now a days, I believe the only grade ac /hydraulics people carry is what they call "barrier" hose. That means the rubber is made from such a material that is even "tighter" than the older style which was plenty adequate for R12. R134a is a smaller molecule, chemically, than R12, so the theory is that a smaller molecule can "escape" easier through the walls of regular non-barier hose.
You cant go wromg with new barrier hose- besides, like I said, you probably have no choise as thats whatrs available commonly on the market. Its a bonus, even if you use R12. Hey, maybe you will sell the car and the next guy is an R134a guy( they are out there). The barrier hoses will please him plus be a minor selling point.
A MUST: when you evac, make sure you have NO leaks. You dont want to add R12 with the tracest leak. Its too expensive for sloppy ac work.
Pull a good vac, 1/2 hr-1 hr, and watch that needle. It shouyldnt move at all for a half hour at least.
Re vacuum - pull/hold at least 29.7" 30" is better. Less will not guarantee you will get all the moisture out of the system. Getting the moisture out is the primary purpose of the vacuum process and less vacuum may not cause the water to boil off and be evacuated, depending on the ambient air temp. Below is a handy chart which shows the boiling temp/vacuum for water. It clearly shows that the fairly common recommendation for vacuum of 25" is a total waste of time. So be sure you get a pump (or use a shop) that can pull 30." Note that common pumps will pull down to 28" fairly quickly but that last 2" may take 30+ more minutes. So that means that with pump-down time PLUS hold-checking time, the system will be undergoing the total vacuum process (from pump start time until you can begin charging) for a minimum of around 1+30 - 2 hours. Longer holding/checking is better... This is the reason why many shops don't pull that much vacuum or hold it for very long. Turn-around time would be too slow for profit. http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/68/Vacuum-Level-Required-to-Boil-Water
I agree with you Mike that Aeroquip fittings are great (I have their catalog on my shelf here at work), but it's just easier and quicker to take the hose to a shop, eat lunch, go back and pick it up and you're done. Rather than find your local Aeroquip dealer (if you are lucky enough to have one) and hope they have the fittings you need, hope you get the right ones, if not go back and get the right ones, or maybe have to order the right ones, wait several days, etc. Yes, I'm lazy and I want results NOW. I'm trying to get my A/C together now and I'm waiting on a new filter dryer because I ordered the wrong one (based on Fchat recommendations). Now I'm waiting on the right one and it's on back order. So I'm weeks away from getting my car back together and it's too hot to drive without it. It's very tempting to just put the vacuum pump on the system with the old filter dryer and just let it pump all night. Must...fight...urge... I want to DRIVE...NOW.
Mike's link is very useful. And he is right about trying to pull at least 29.9" even 30.0" Hg. I will only add that some gauges are not that accurate. Here is another useful link: % Vacuum (Percent) Microns Inches Mercury Gauge 0 760,000 0 97.4 20,000 29.14" 98.7 10,000 29.53" 99 7,600 29.62" 99.9 1,000 29.88" 99.9 750 29.89" 99.99 100 29.916" 99.999 10 29.9196" 100 0 29.92" this emphasizes the importance of microns, vs just " of Hg. bottom line- pull as close to 29.9-30 as possible. remember, the dryer will take up some mosture, so perfection is not absolutely nessesary.
geez, sorry, that chart didnt come out right, guys. Its supposed to show relationship between " Hg and microns. Manuals specify below 500 microns is ideal for cavuum. They avoid the " Hg spec. Still, sometimes I use it myself......
maybe this wil be better chart: http://www.autoacsystems.com/fasttrack/vacuumpumpmicron.html You see on the % vacuum line, it shows 99,99%? Well, thats great vac guys. But not perfect. Thats my point. thats why we have the dryer.
