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New Battery, no power...

Discussion in '360/430' started by Ferrarinh, Nov 15, 2023.

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  1. Ferrarinh

    Ferrarinh Rookie

    Mar 26, 2023
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    Newmarket NH
    #1 Ferrarinh, Nov 15, 2023
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2023
    Hi, recently had the codes read on my 2000 360, indicating low battery voltage. So hooked up the trickle charger for a few days. After which all electrical is dead... no F1 pump when door opens, no light in the boot when i switch the battery disconnect on/off... an expensive red brick :) Replaced battery, no change. Chasing down fuses presently. The 4 fuses just to the right of the battery are good. (60/60/60/50 amps). Any recommendations appreciated. The car has run perfect all year, no hint of any issues.
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #2 Qavion, Nov 16, 2023
    Sounds like you still have a battery issue. The battery feeds those 4 fuses directly and one of those fuses feeds the frunk light (I assume the bulb and the lid open switch is ok).

    I guess you'd have to check the voltage at the battery (One probe to the positive terminal and one to chassis).

    Just make sure that your battery cutoff switch is not in the cutoff position when charging the battery (The battery won't charge unless the charger is hooked up directly to the battery).
     
  3. Ferrarinh

    Ferrarinh Rookie

    Mar 26, 2023
    14
    Newmarket NH
    #3 Ferrarinh, Nov 16, 2023
    the battery in the car is new and same make/model as the old Diehard Platinum, 12.46 volts. Will check the cutoff switch as well. When i would turn the cutoff switch to power on before i would notice the frunk light and two beeps (from the immobilizer?). and now nothing, no beeps. Will go thru all fuses tomorrow.
     
  4. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
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    #4 mike32, Nov 16, 2023
    Sounds like the battery earth is not connected
     
  5. GogglesPisano

    GogglesPisano F1 Rookie
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    #5 GogglesPisano, Nov 16, 2023
    Might want to inspect the switch a bit closer if you can. Those older cutoff switches seem to be the cause of a lot of problems for some of the members here.

    Also, make sure this isn't you :D

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  6. CoreyNJ

    CoreyNJ Formula 3
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    #6 CoreyNJ, Nov 16, 2023
    shouldn't there be a spot for him to check continuity to chassis ground? I know you don't want to check it from the negative terminal wire since there are some accessories that aren't controlled by the cutoff switch.
     
  7. GogglesPisano

    GogglesPisano F1 Rookie
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    #7 GogglesPisano, Nov 16, 2023
    I think you'd want to check resistance for a better idea in case there is some bleed through, but not enough. Not sure where the proper spot would be. However, it would be easy enough to pop the switch out and just run a resistance test between the two posts or at least check for voltage when engaged. Not sure where the first stop is for the cable after this switch but I'm sure someone else is more familiar.

    https://aldousvoice.com/2015/09/21/ferrari-360-battery-cut-off-switch-autopsy/
     
  8. CoreyNJ

    CoreyNJ Formula 3
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    #8 CoreyNJ, Nov 16, 2023
    good point...
     
  9. Ferrarinh

    Ferrarinh Rookie

    Mar 26, 2023
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    Newmarket NH
    #9 Ferrarinh, Nov 16, 2023
    thanks will do so this weekend!
     
  10. Ferrarinh

    Ferrarinh Rookie

    Mar 26, 2023
    14
    Newmarket NH
    #10 Ferrarinh, Nov 17, 2023
    well have checked EVERY fuse, all good. Thinking it maybe a faulty cutoff switch but not sure how this is removed.... wheel well panel removed? Could it be bypassed for testing purposes?
     
  11. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #11 Qavion, Nov 17, 2023
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2023
    I suppose you could put a battery jumper lead (with crocodile clips) from the negative terminal to something solid (metal). Is there a metal beam behind the battery? I'm not sure if you could use the angle iron above the battery.

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  12. Ferrarinh

    Ferrarinh Rookie

    Mar 26, 2023
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    Newmarket NH
    #12 Ferrarinh, Jan 4, 2024
    Just want to close out this post with the solution, answer... it was the cutoff switch..... the clue oddly enough was that in my debugging and 100+ times i turned on and off the switch 1x the connection held and i had power to the car. This told me it had to be the switch. Replaced it, and opened up the failed switch and internally nothing looked abnormal, it could have simply just been wear from usage over time. Thanks All.
     
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