New convert to Redline 75w90ns

Transmissions accumulate condensation. This varies with gear oil type (I've experienced it here in Alabama with Red Line's "Superlight Shockproof" after just 6 months on my 348) and humidity.

If left in your gear oil long enough, large amounts of condensation will eventually lead to rust, and rust will lead to internal part failures.

So changing your gear oil not only removes the natural wear particles (e.g. metal) from your tranny, but also removes harmful condensation.

Of course, changing fluids too often is overkill, but there are at least advantages worth pointing out for doing said changes.

 

I was told in my climate, northern midwest...change every 2 years.

 

I just changed my gear oil to Red Line, which I've used in other cars, in my Mondial T (348) but did not achieve the desired result. When I shift into fourth gear when cold, I still get a resounding "screeech" at the shifter. When the car is warm, no problem. When cold, I have to go from third to fifth. Does anyone have any thoughts on a fix on the little bit of info I have provided?

 

After 12 years of AGIP 7590 LSX I tried the Swepco on the recommendation of several ferrari mechanics. I have to say that is is noticably harder to shift than the AGIP even when warm. I would like to try the redline but not sure which to use it seems there is several recomendations here?

Rob

 

I use redline shockproof lightweight, and my transmission shifts easily in any gear, even when cold, without any chatter or noise whatsoever.

Rocco

 

I trust Steve after years of advice, I want to try Redline but dont want to mess up my gearbox. Im using the Swepco and not impressed, maybe I will go back to the AGIP???!!!%$%#@#$

 

Changed the gear oil in my 328 today. Used 4 quarts of Redline 75W90NS & 1 quart of ordinary Redline 75w90.

Took it for a run afterwards & can't say it felt appreciably different to where it was before. That said its always been pretty good & able to go into second within 1/2 mile from cold start etc. It might be slightly better when warm - hard to tell, but it certainly isn't any worse!

Points of note:

I filled it via the transfer case - seemed to work fine & without some kind of special pump I can't see how you'd fill it via the g'box fill hole anyway!

It took the full 5 quarts before any oil started coming out the g'box fill plug. Someone somewhere said 4 quarts would be enough - it isn't.

The thing fought with me for the duration of the job. Only the gearbox drain plug came out easily, the other three plugs were a nightmare. For the g'box fill plug I had to put a wrench on the nut & then get a hydraulic jack under the other end of the wrench to crack it open. The two plugs on the transfer case needed extra leverage courtesy of my jack handle! Even getting the last 10mm bolt back in the aluminium shield took me 10 minutes.

One of those days, I am battered & bruised but ultimately victorious!

My car is now sitting in the garage muttering to itself about the indignity of it all - silly b itch!

I

 

It's always the three- bolt jobs that take the longest, because no car DYI job is allowed to be easy!!!

I'm getting geared up for the 90K major on my 328. Part excited, because I get to assist a mechanic/part nervous, because I know some of the bolts that should be easy will inevitably give us fits!

We'll be going Redline in my 328. My mechanic is a Redline fan, and indeed just did a major on a Mondial 3.2 using Redline and when I accompanied him on a test drive after finishing it he was again pleased with the results.

 

When Branko and I change his gear oil next time, we'll probably leave the inspection hole closed.

Remove the rear driver's wheel (U.S.) and fender liners, open the tranny fill plug (top, left) and the transfer case fill plug (lower driver's side rear), then remove the drain plug underneath.

Drain the gear fluid when hot, then measure how much drained out. Replace the drain plug. Slowly fill with 5 quarts RedLine 75w90NS. Replace remaining two fill plugs. Done.

That takes it from a 4 bolt job down to a 3 bolt job. Well, considering that the bolt on the inspection hole was covered by a heat shield with 4 bolts, that actually takes the job down from 8 bolts to 3.

Since we used new crush rings and knew to undo the bolts when the tranny was warm, we shouldn't have any trouble getting the bolts back off again with mere hand tools.

 

I use fiber washers and they seem to have more give than the copper ones so there is more fudge room Im not sure a real tech would use them but on the transfer plug its a no brainer. I change all my fluids once a year.

Hope this helps

rob

BTW I just ordered 6 quarts of the 75-90NS Im hoping that it will work, the redline guy (Dave) and I talked for a while about it. Dave says do it but Steve said he had some chattering, we will see this will be my third gear oil so I will at least be abale to compare notes!!!

 

What you guys dont polish the heat shield each time like me??

 

That heat shield had me shaking. My hands were trembling from being upside down so long under that tranny trying to re-install those 4 bolts.

Would probably take half the time to do it now, but I just don't see the point as you know how much gear oil to install so removing the inspection plug becomes superfluous.

 

That'll be me next time as well. My trasmission fill plug had actually been changed from the original. My local indi did it the last time he changed my gear oil - something about the original plug not having a very long thread.

Needless to say the new one takes a different size wrench - 30mm !!
Had to go out & buy a wrench & 30 mm wrenches arn't cheap!

I.

 

I have to thank you guys. I switched to the RL NS and the the car shifts much smoother than the AGIP LSX or the Swepco! I heard no chattering, but not sure what that would sound like as I never heard it before anyway!!!

Thanks Again!

Rob

 

+1, I think Amsoil 75w-90 Severe gear oil is great. Works better in my car than Redline.

 

My 328's gear oil was recently changed to Redline 75-90 (LS). Initially..I noticed an improvement to "cold" second gear shifts. Within a few weeks..the improvement seemed to disappear..and it was again difficult to use second gear when cold. 75-90 LS vs. 75-90 NS..share your experiences please..

 

Im using the NS which seems wrong but shifts better than anything I have tried including swepco and Agip...
Next time I might put a touch of the LS in there for the clutches but the redline guys said he thought it would not need it.

 

I've heard(here) that we're supposed to use the NS and only add a little slip additive, if necessary.
I switched about 6 weeks ago to Redline NS and it's great, huge difference.
I would change to NS if I were you, the LS might have too much slip additive.

 

I switched to the NS last week and although the shifting might be slightly better, the chatter from the dif is much worse. I switched to Redline in one of my older 328's a few years ago and I had the same issue. The gearbox oil that I used in the past that gave me no problems was the Mobil 1 Synthetic. I guess I should have gone with that again but I read so many threads praising this stuff (NS)that I figured I would give it another shot.

 

You should add Redline's slip/diff additive if you hear chattering. Some trannies will need it based upon wear/useage, etc.

 

Why would you use the 75 90ns instead of the 75 90, the 75 90 is the correct oil for the limited slip application ?

 

Because it was discovered by the experts here, that the cause of the 2nd gear problem(when cold) was too much slip additive in the standard 75w90. The 75w90ns has no slip additive.
Just add a little slip additive if necessary (as little as possible), it's available separately.
I haven't needed to add any but I keep some in stock, just in case I need it in the future.
Switching to Redline 75w90ns made a HUGE improvement in 2nd gear and a noticable improvement in all gears for me.

 

The oil that is correct for limited slip differentials is the opposite of what is correct for syncromesh transmissions. Ferrari combined the tranny and diff, so the gear oil has to be a compromise between what is right for tranny as opposed to what is right for differential.

Trial and error has shown that 75w90NS is really good for Ferrari transmissions, with some diffferentials requiring a little bit of slip additive on top of the 75w90NS to prevent chattering. Each car will be a little bit different based upon wear and useage, of course.


Basically, if you can't hit 2nd gear when your tranny is cold, your gear oil is either too slick or too contaminated (presuming an undamaged transmission) or overfilled or grossly underfilled. And if you hear chattering from your differential when you are turning corners, then your gear oil isn't slick enough for your differential.


Get the right mix of gear oil and slip additive and you'll have both smooth-shifting as well as no chattering in turns.

Everyone else who has trouble with shifting a Ferrari when cold simply doesn't have the right gear oil (or gear oil and slip additive mix).