New Ferrari Owner - Misfiring Troubles - Where to Start | FerrariChat

New Ferrari Owner - Misfiring Troubles - Where to Start

Discussion in '308/328' started by JTaller308, Sep 14, 2024.

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  1. JTaller308

    JTaller308 Rookie

    Oct 10, 2022
    1
    Full Name:
    Janos Taller
    Good Evening All, Like many of you, I have always wanted a 308 and have spent the last 5 years casually looking and the last 2 years in earnest. This August I purchased a 1985 308 GTS QV for a mechanic / dealer shop that I know. The car had a good pedigree and had been serviced by the shop for the last 21 years with the same owner (he was the fourth). Approximately 7 K miles put on the car from 2003 - 2006 and then 2 K miles from then until now. The car had 58800 + miles at purchase. The car had lived its entire life in California, with the exception of a brief stint in Oregon from 1999 - 2001. I have a lot of records for the car. It has been routinely serviced with bi-annual smog tests since 2003, appropriate timing belt service, fluid service and maintenance.

    I test drove the car and it drove great. No issues with the 10 mile or so drive on city and highway speeds. Engine compartment clean and a very good external / internal appearance. Very happy with the car and very happy with the maintenance it has routinely undergone.

    It had a mini-PPI at the dealership, annual service with a belt exchange and passed smog. I took it home very happy.

    Bottom line, approximately 60 miles into driving this car, it began to misfire. Subtle at first, at the top of a steep hill.. almost like the tank was near empty or some old gas or debris had fouled the injectors. It stalled once or twice and then it made it home.

    Next day, I filled it up with new fuel - 91 premium and took it for a drive and 10 to 15 miles into it on the freeway, it began to misfire, a little at first, but by the end of the 20 miles drive (already had committed to a loop on the freeway) it had lost significant power and the CAT was running hot. I now know that likely the front bank (5 -8) were not firing leading to raw fuel heading to my CAT. It was a hot night, so I thought heat may be affecting my ignition system. The next morning, when it was cooler, the major misfiring occurred right away so it was not heat related.

    For the next couple of days, I researched the forums and reviewed the internet and youtube. Definitely seemes like something was going on with the ignition system. I started with making sure the sparkplug extenders were well seated and just by doing this, the car ran like a dream for another 10 miles or so. Later that day, when I went to take her out again, the initial problem repeated itself.

    So I am looking at some issues involving the ignition system and one bank of cylinders. I reached out to the mechanic / dealer shop but did not get any satisfaction, except to "bring it in." I am a little apprehensive about this given that this car was supposedly good to go. This is my default option, though.

    As a younger man, I worked on several cars and always liked the idea of my own maintenance. Since I have always pined for the 308, it is definitely my intent to be a hands-on owner... I just was not expecting this to be needed week 2 of ownership.

    So my question for group consideration. How would you all approach troubleshooting this problem. This is was I was thinking.

    1) Pull and examine all of the sparkplug extenders and ignition wires for corrosion and integrity. Replace or repair as needed
    2) Pull and inspect all 8 plugs, maybe they were last changed in 2001 at 49 K miles
    3) Pull, inspect and clean rotor cap and points
    These I could do on my own.

    Then need to contemplate troubleshooting the coils?
    Any other thoughts?

    I did a deep dive into the recent service records over the last 20 years and it appears as though this 308 has had intermittent problems with it "A" bank firing? so this may not be a new problem.

    Any constructive thoughts would be appreciated.
    Thanks
     
  2. Freddie328

    Freddie328 Formula Junior

    Jul 29, 2013
    389
    Herts, UK
    Full Name:
    Richard
    That's a good place to start, but you will need a multi meter to measure the resistance of the leads. There's not much point in checking the leads unless you can do this. If they're still the original Cavis 400 leads the resistance should vary between 0.5 to 1 K ohm, depending on lead length. Newer inductive type leads, which may have been fitted, will be around 3-8 K ohm depending on the brand. If you get very high readings the lead is U/S. There should be no resistance through the extenders.Also check the distributor caps and rotors for signs of damage and the carbon brush hasn't worn away. It's worth measuring the lead resistance with the distributor caps removed, leads still attached. This way you can measure the lead resistance including the terminal it connects too. The method of connecting the lead to cap is very crude, on these cars, and often becomes a high resistance point in the system. Also check that the extenders show no signs of burning through their sidewalls. This causes the spark to miss the plug!.
    If the problem is with a complete bank and caused by the leads/distributor, chances are either the lead that joins coil to distributor has an issue or the cap itself is faulty. Plugs should all be the same colour and obviously not fouled with soot or carbon.
    Once you've done this and if the problem persists, you can move on with confidence that the basics are ok before tackling other more potentially difficult and costly issues.
     
    Alden, Michael DB and MFlanagan like this.
  3. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,562
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    New car to you, start fresh with your new base line. Unless you can point to an invoice where the ignition wire leads, the plug extenders, and the plugs were changed in the last 3 years, I would just replace them all. I would strongly recommend replacing the distributor caps and rotors if you can get them from Maranello Spares. They are a bit more expensive but, hey you now drive a Ferrari. Get used to the prices.

    Then, measure the fuel delivery to each of the plugs to make sure they are in spec. Check and inspect all air injection hoses and connections and replace any bad or corroded pipes. You did not say where you are from so I don't know what smog requirements you may have to meet.
     
  4. Baltz1969

    Baltz1969 Karting

    Apr 24, 2017
    74
    Chula Vista, CA
    Full Name:
    Jose Baltz
    You can eliminate the coils as the issue by switching the them from front bank to rear bank, if the problem continues then do the same with the Digiplex if the problem continues then the last thing would be the crank sensor for that bank, good luck


    Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat
     
  5. chasjen

    chasjen Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 21, 2013
    81
    Dublin, Ohio
    Full Name:
    Charlie
    Similar issue maybe. I have an 85 QV with about 70k miles on it. Recently I lost the rear bank of cylinders while driving. Full disclosure, I'm not much of a diagnostician. Anyway, I replaced the coils, coil wires, wires, extenders, dist. rotors and dist. carbon button. Fixed it. It now runs better than it ever has! Since I drove several miles on 4 cylinders, my oil had a little gas smell to it so I changed the oil too. Good Luck
     
  6. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Jun 11, 2004
    11,223
    CT
    Full Name:
    John Kreskovsky
    [QUOTEThat's a good place to start, but you will need a multi meter to measure the resistance of the leads. There's not much point in checking the leads unless you can do this. If they're still the original Cavis 400 leads the resistance should vary between 0.5 to 1 K ohm, depending on lead length. Newer inductive type leads, which may have been fitted, will be around 3-8 K ohm depending on the brand.][/QUOTE]

    This.
     
  7. eurocarguy101

    eurocarguy101 Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 3, 2015
    115
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jefferson Wheeler
    Do you have any oil in the distributor caps? The o-rings in the end of the cam shaft are known to leak and it could cause intermittent ignition issues.
     
  8. Sergio Tavares

    Sergio Tavares Formula 3

    Nov 15, 2018
    1,308
    Full Name:
    Sergio Tavares
    Check ground at engine for less than 0.5 Ohms to Negative post.
     

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