Eric, I placed the order on 3/2/2013. Received key on or about 5/21/2013 Received PIN and FOB's around 7/15/2013. It took until today to be told that the original PIN was hand written on a P/N label. I somewhat suspected this but did not try it because I was told that the number was just a dealers parts record. So, I've been dealing with this just shy of 1-year...
Ketel- You have to use the red fob first so the Alarm ECU can recognize and memorize a new PIN and know a new set of fobs is coming, although if you cannot get the LED to flash......
Ok. I'm crying Uncle. Tried yet again to pair these f*^%ing fobs. No dice. The flashing after the last set of On to Off key clicks never happens. Here is what I am getting: When entering the PiN sequence of key clicks for the 4 numbers, there is steady fleshing of the LEDs. Then, when the last digit is entered, the steady flashing goes away and what happens is that the LED stays steady ON when the key is in the ON position and the steady OFF when the key is on the OFF position. According to the instructions and to all you posters, I am supposed to see the LED start flashing again once I go past 10 or so more key clicks. Nope. Just getting ON and OFF LED light when the key is in the ON of OFF position, respectively . Any last advice before drive it to the dealer? ketel
Ketel, I also need to do mine now that I've been provided the original PIN (which I still need to test). I may get around to it this week if you want to wait. As I suggested before, ask a friend to try it but don't tell him what you are doing, let him read the document on his own. Sometimes it just takes another set of eyes.
I found something that says to leave the key on after 10 cycles and wait for the led to go off. Once it goes off, turn the key off then back on for the 11th time and then it will flash.
I've tried my original PIN tonight (as retrieved from the dealer at a cost), I cannot get it to work. I really doubt the immobilizer was changed. The manual states to cycle the key from position 0-II. I'm having a really hard time hitting position II. It often goes to position III. Will this matter? Also, when entering the PIN, what should the LED be doing?
I read that you have to leave the key on after the 10th cycle until the light goes out THEN turn it off and on. It should flash then and be ready for programming (you don't do 11 in a row, just do 10 and wait for the solid light to go out then cycle once)
Interesting development.... DrBob tried his PIN tonight and it worked. On DRBob's car, if the immobilizer is armed, the car will NOT turn over. On mine (and others here), the car WILL turn over but the car will not start. Bob's is a 97, mine is a 98. It would apprear different immobilizers have been used...
Eric, what PIN was ordered, the retrieval of the original? So you are aware, you need the original PIN to re-program the ECU to accept the new PIN that comes coded on the new FOB's. If you don't have the original PIN, or it does not work, you are screwed - ask me how I know...
I think the original was ordered. The car has been stored at Ferrari this entire time, so I'd hope they know what was needed. The previous owner is taking care of it all. I think the bill came out around $1,500, so I'd hope that would include everything?
Everthing would mean a new immobilizer ECU, New FOB's and new PIN - I'm told that's $2000 for the parts alone. I'd ask the question if I was you and get the specifics.
When I spoke with the parts manager, he said the FOBS and PIN were ordered (Nothing about a immobilizer). I just pinged Zabinksi about which PIN was ordered.
Then you need the original PIN. If you don't have it, or it's wrong, you would need the full kit which means a new immobilizer (might be immobilizer interface too). These are riveted in a cage behind the driver's seat panel. You cannot unplug them without drilling out the cage rivets.
Ed says the original PIN was ordered. Ferrari is doing the programming and final once over before I finally take delivery of her.
I'm talking about the original PIN. I wonder if ferrari has a device to make yours work, since your having problems with your original pin.
Eric, trust me, I'm going through a painful experience now and have been in discussion directly with FNA. If you don't have the original PIN, there is exactly one option: new imobilizer kit. PERIOD. That's it. Well, I take that back....you can try all 10,000 possible PIN combinations and see if you get lucky
