New Max Jax so far...

I'm excited for you! Post up some pics please as I'm planning on getting this set up in my garage as well. Any info you can provide will be great.

 

Thats a good deal, I might see if it's still available.

 

Pictures man, where are the pictures?

 

I am thinking of getting one of these as well. Did you have any concerns about the concrete in your garage? They recommend 3,000 psi and I think 4 inch thickness, but I am not sure if my garage floor is up to that spec. I think the local code is 2,500 psi. The maxjax looks like it is over-engineered, but I am just not sure.

 

Hi Chris, any updates? With pics?

 

The most important detail is to minimize wobble in the bit during the drilling. I would not recommend renting the bit as these are often mistreated or worse broken. I did find the 7/8 bit at either Lowes or THD otherwise Amazon has a selection. As you have probably deduced from research, SDS Plus is likely the most robust solution for drilling accurate holes without much effort.

Here are the links to the extra drop-in anchors and hammer drill I used:

Wej-It PD Internally Threaded Drop-In Anchor, Carbon Steel, Zinc Plated Finish, Meets ASTM B633, 7/8" Diameter, 3-13/16" Length, 5/8" Threads, Made in US (Pack Of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Bosch 11255VSR BULLDOG Xtreme 1-Inch SDS-plus D-Handle Rotary Hammer: Home Improvement

One tip regarding hammer drill usage: do not put a lot of force into the drill as you are creating the holes in the concrete. There is a sweet spot with applied pressure where the hammer function will carve thru the concrete like moving thru soft wood. If you find this specific pressure amount, you can focus solely on anti-wobble and let the drill do the heavy work.

On my 355 GTS, it is still necessary to raise the car by driving onto wooden planks in order for the MaxJax arms to slide underneath (3.5" min clearance).
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Ken, thanks for the links - would you happen to know the anchors you linked to on Amazon exceed (or at least match) the specs of the ones that come with the MaxJax? Also do you (or does anyone else know if these anchors can be dropped into wet concrete to avoid the need to use a hammer drill)?

I'm planning to build a new house in the spring. I've specified min 4000PSI concrete and plan to pour some deeper concrete pads (12") where the lift would go. It would be really convenient if I could just buy the anchors Ken linked to now, and drop them into the freshly poured concrete while the house is being built. Then, once the house is done, I can have the lift delivered and be good to go.

Is there a template that comes with the MaxJax showing you where the holes need to be drilled? I suppose I could contact the company and ask for one in advance of buying the lift. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

 

Silverleaf,

There are a number of companies that make female structural threaded inserts for concrete, 3M being among them (try their structural epoxy anchors or do a Google search). This is what you need. Just match the male fastener that goes into the insert. They sit flush with the floor and will develop the full capacity of the bolt. Of course, you will need a template and it will have to be set just where you want them.

 

I've been considering one of these jacks as well... but wondered about the concrete as well.

I was tempted to dig out the section where I'm going to put the jack and pour new concrete there as my house was built in 59.. not sure if the concrete is original or not.

 

Most photos I have see. Is people put it where they want it and drill the holes with it sitting right there just like a regular two post then move it vacuums the holes and install the inserts

 

The anchors which are available via the Amazon link above are the exact parts which are included by MJ (ie same manufacturer, same box, specs, part #etc.). I purchased them in order to have an alternate width for a wider vehicle within my garage.

I have seen other threads which stated that epoxy anchors are stronger thanks to their chemical bond with the concrete but I have no experience with those and therefore reluctant to experiment. I want no part of modifying the original solution since the result could be "Idiot killed by falling Ferrari".

You could make a anchor template by positioning the base over a piece of cardboard and spraying the black touchup paint thru the five holes in the base. The specs should be on the website to create your own template or I would be happy to measure mine for you.

However I would strongly recommend allowing the concrete to cure without anchors since the curing may cause them to move slightly. For the same reason, you prolly should not use a template at all as your bolts will likely not line up exactly with this approach (ask me how I know).

Better to follow the install instructions and drill the remaining four holes thru the base with it bolted to the floor via the first bolt and anchor. This way the openings in the base provide additional anti-wobble during the drilling.

I will post the drilling instructions later in the event that they are not available online.

 

Peep it starting on page 15:

http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products/two-post-lifts/files/PS-7REVA_v2.pdf

 

I have one of these. Very nice and Very Portable. Each upright has wheels at the back so that you can dismount it and stowe it.

I am happy with it having owned several lifts (currently also a Ford Smith 4 post). but there are 2 main problems with it;

1. You can't stop one side or the other from leaking.
2. It is a bit ricketty. I ALWAYS use the locking bars and just do light stuff with it.

 

That lift scares the crap out of me and I'd never use it.

 

I hope you never use any other two post because that beam across the top isn't for strength its only for the hydraulics and cables to run through.

 

I'm well aware of that. I plan to put a mohawk in my garage.

Mohawk Lifts A-7- purchase 2 post car lifts, two post car lifts & truck lift contracts | Mohawk Lifts Consumer Site

Very large flange plates with wedge anchors....

 

Of course the cost of the Mohawk A-7 is over twice as much as the MaxJax ($5.5k vs $2k) so they are clearly not targetted at the same buyer. That is like saying you would never consider a 355 solely because it is not 430-size money.

Most of us do not have dedicated service garages at our home. When the garage is multi-purpose, the portability of the MaxJax becomes a very attractive option.

Each lift uses the Wej-It anchors which will withstand over 15,000 lbs of tension:
http://www.toggler.com/pdf/TOGGLER_catalog.pdf

I appreciate going thru the MaxJax setup routine each time and inspecting for any areas of concern. At only 300 lbs per column and on rollers, my 9 year old can navigate each easily in and out of position.

I also have several lift points in the garage which accomodate multiple widths. This is something that cannot be accomplished with heavier permanent systems.

 

Ken,

I'm not saying they don't have a good market. Just for me, I'd be concerned for of the saftey. But, that's just me. I've done it many times, but I'm not a fan of being under a car on jack stands either - it just makes me nervous...

 

I am looking for a two post right now, What is your price on the Mohawk I like it especially with it being made in the USA. looks like they are close to 6K

 

Take a look at the Mohawk A7, it's a much better lift but needless to say it's a much higher cost. You get what you pay for...

But, buy what you need - for me, I'll be happier with the Mohawk..