New owner needs advice on winter storage tips

I store my 328 from early Dec through April in Md. I put some fresh gas and StaBil in the tank, put 50PSI of air in the tires, and disconnect the battery. I do not use a charger. Prior to putting it in the garage it goes for at least a 30 mile run to make sure all temps are up to normal operating.

In April I connect the batt and start the car. It starts instantly. I then adjust the tire pressure and that's it. THe car has been in the garage as long as 7 months that way and always starts immediately.

I don't do any other "winterizing."

If you drive it at all during the winter, unless you get the car to normal operating temp, you are better off not running it at all.

 

Read them ?

 

OK if you search (button top left) on 'winter storage tips' there are 16 other threads listed and 'winter storage advice' 28 other threads showing - surely some will be helpful ?

 

The worst thing for these cars is leaving them sit in the garage. Drive it year round as much as possible. If we get a big enough rainfall to wash the roads clear of salt i will take it out.

Shortshift when cold from 1st to 3rd helps.

 

A mod should move this up into the tips sticky area and merge a bunch of these together.


This is as worn-out as timing belts but new and older owners do need a one-stop shop for info or a refresher evey now and then.


Mod?????

 

50psi !?! Holy smoke! I put mine at 37 thinking the tires would blow up!

 

50psi is a good pressure for storage and it wont hurt them. it will help eliminate the flat spots.

When you get new tires put on, the pressure is a lot higher to get the beads to seat, don't worry, they won't blow.

 

I guess most important is what not to do:

Don't get it out the garage, start the engine, let it warm up at idle and then put it away again.

Don't drive it where there is salt on the roads and if you do drive it check to make sure you don't have salt stuck underneath it - if you do then wash it off.

As far as not moving it for months on end, there are three issues

a) The Gas in the tank can go bad. You don't want this because if its bad in the tank it can be bad in the injection system and those are expeensive to clean out & rebuild. This can be sorted/avoided as Mike suggests

b) If you don't move it for months on end the tyres can be damaged - so either pump them up or roll it backwards or forwards a few inches every couple of weeks

c) I was told by an indi tech that if you don't run the engine for a long period there is a small risk that the camshaft oil seals can dry out. When that happens when you next start the engine they can move slightly ....and then they leak till you change 'em. I would guess this is less of an issue with newer seals.

No doubt the best way to manage these cars through the winter is to use them if you can - but only on dry days and dry roads.

Never thrash it till you have decent oil temperature, be careful that your summer tyres might display a significant lack of grip when its cold (especially Good Year DSG3's). If you run it then go for at least 15 miles & run all the fans, open & close the heater valves a few times, run the AC for a bit and crank the windows up & down a couple of times.

In short , keep everything moving. Either disconnect the battery when its not being used (find the battery disconnect thing if you havn't already - there is no need to unhook the clamps from the battery itself) or hook it up to a conditioner - but try and avoid letting the battery go flat too.

 

What about putting it up on jack stands or a lift and say start it twice a month to let it warm up to operating temp?

 

One more tip. If you're not going to start the engine (I don't) it's wise to ensure that the valve train doesn't seize in one position. I was told by an old time Ferrari guy to stick a 36mm socket on the crankshaft pulley and give the engine a bit of a turn manually. I do this every week or so and get some sense of security by knowing that everything's turning smoothly. It's quite a physical process and would obviously be easier if the spark plugs were removed (protect the openings with a small piece of clean cloth of course).

 

Mine is on a lift and I pump up the tires a bit (50 psi) and let it sit until spring. I do disconnect the battery. No battery tender and no gas treatment needed (IMO). The gas will only be a few months old and won't degrade to a point where there is a problem.

If you want to turn over the engine every 2 weeks, pull the fuel pump fuse and turn it over. It won't start, but circulates the oil around a bit.

Starting the car in the winter can put moisture in the engine and exhaust system and you really need to get the engine/oil temps up to drive off the moisture.

Just my 2 cents.

 

I have several cars & boats that are in long term storage, I do move them around a little, it keeps the flat spots to a minimum. Use the brakes when you do, it keeps the rust off the rotors. i do like to crank the engine a few turns, it keeps the rust off the cylinder walls too, and seals also get lubricated. It's probably good for the battery to see a load monthly too.

I don't like Jack stand unless I am under working. You take a greater chance of damaging the car jacking it up and down and putting stands under.

Probably the biggest concern if you are storing for more than the winter is the fuel in the tank. Use your favorite fuel stabilizer for short terms, without, after about a year don't even think about starting the engine, that smelly stuff in the tank wont even kill ant hills when you drain the tank.

The best thing you can do is drive it on a clear day, there is usually at least one day a month in the winter that you can go for a quick drive.

 

I have 2 dehumidifiers in the garage and once the roads are salted it doesn't move until April showers. Summer tires really aren't any good under 50 degrees anyway. Garage temp stays at 60. Consistency is key. I also run the gas tank to empty and store with gas line antifreeze and add another one when I fill it up, Shell V Power of course.

 

gas line antifreeze....where do you live and how cold is your garage again?

 

Gas line antifreeze is only going to help you when trying to start a car in sub zero temperatures.
Not something I would suggest trying with a Ferrari. All in all you guys make parking your car for a little while a real pain in the ass.
I drive my car into the garage, shut it off disconect the battery hot lead, and leave. Then a couple of months later I get into the car, start it and drive away. That system has been working fine for me for 20 years.

 

+1

I use stabil just for peace of mind - my Shelby has sit for over 4 months without it and started right up.

 

amen, thank you for this.

 

I have been doing this with my 328 for about 4-5 years and it seems to work fine.

-F

 

LOL its also a water remover for humid or damp conditions. Read the bottle.

 

So how much water do you get in lets say a 1/2 empty fuel tank in 4 months, in damp conditions? Enough for the car not to start again?

 

I would not store my car with an empty gas tank. That would only be an invitation for condensation build up.

 

Hence the gas line antifreeze.

 

And once again the question. How much water? Is it enough to cause the car not to start and run? What damage could be done? I've had bad fuel in a car before, it ran kinda crappy every once in a while until I put fresh fuel into it.