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New thermostat overheating

Discussion in '348/355' started by Ferrarium, Sep 1, 2019.

  1. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium Formula 3
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    #1 Ferrarium, Sep 1, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2019
    I swapped out the thermostat since I was going through cooling system, new heater aux pump etc. It is a new OEM one I drilled the bleed hole as well 1/16 bit. All clamps are tight and good to go. I tart the car after refilling coolant in the tank. Turn the HVAC heater on etc.
    • The aux pump powers on and runs.
    • The car goes past 195.
    • The radiator fans do not kick on.
    • The radiators are cool which explains no fans operating.
    • There air and coolant spit coolant coming from LOWER bleed nipple not the top.
    Any suggestions, air in the system? What do you do with the bleed nipples leave them cracked until they both flow coolant?
     
  2. Ferrarium

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    Added 4 inches under both rear wheels and did it again and fans came on. Apparently I was to nose high . Ugh hope I did not fry my new aux heat pump. For others make sure the rear is higher than the front it appears to help.

    I'll do a few cycles of bleeding, driving, checking over a few days. The new SPAL fans with temp sensor kick on and bring the temp down quick. Previously in my garage the fans would kick on and stay on for a long while sometime just stay on. The new setup kicks on for 2 min then shuts off it does come back on 2 min later so it seems to work and it is sensing temps more accurately and moving more air perhaps....

    Definitely time to get Miros Toyota PWM setup in installed for the big fan with a bracket to hold the PWM's fins over the rear airflow. The little passenger side fan only draws 8 amps but the big one on drivers side draws 22.
     
  3. Wade

    Wade Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Good to know. I've always raised the rear a bit in the past but haven't done this in awhile.
     
  4. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob F1 World Champ
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    That's a good way to fry your motor. IMO the way to do this is to know how much coolant volume you need. Then without ever starting the car almost all of that should be taken into the system during refill. This lets you know those coolant sensors can work because they are covered in water. Then start car let it rise to temp and watch the reservoir level and add as needed. As things warm and reservoir level rises as temp increases cap it. Rarely do I even need to crack the bleed screw on any car, but now's the time to use your bleed screw if you have to. If all looks good take a test drive and bleed from the screw a bit more at idle. If you have done well only coolant comes out. If a little air is bleed out that's ok too. You should be good now.
     
  5. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Karting
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    I discovered one helpful hint from 'my348.com'...I think it was there anyway! Fill as much coolant as you can leaving 2" to the top of reservoir. Turn key to on, engine off, Max out the heat temp, and let the little pump in the Frunk do it's thing. After about 3-5mins or so, crack open lower bleed screw until no more bubbles. Replenish the reservoir(-2") and start engine, warm up completely, watching gauges/reservoir, feel for warm coolant past thermostat, and open upper bleed screw to get the remaining air out. Bleeding the heater core by using the little pump up front(engine off) seems to really work well, for me anyways.... my .02
    Edit.... no it wasn't that site...!
     
  6. steved033

    steved033 F1 Rookie
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    When I did my refill, I filled the block directly through the top hose. That way there's no air pocket. Then fill through the reservoir. I did it with both bleeds open till coolant came out the lower, then closed, start the car, heater on full. Bleed off the last of the air, top it up in the reservoir, and you should be good.
     
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  7. Ferrarium

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    Great idea, but clarification, is it the top thermostat hose your referring to? The thermostat is closed how does it get into the block or is it another hose.
     
  8. steved033

    steved033 F1 Rookie
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    it's actually the water pump hose...not the thermostat one.

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  9. Ferrarium

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    #9 Ferrarium, Sep 3, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
    Thinking about it for education, does the heater aux pump need water to lubricate? Wondering if water does not get there can the pump sieze?

    Sent using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
  10. SoCal1

    SoCal1 F1 Veteran
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  11. S-T48

    S-T48 Formula Junior
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    Sounds like there was no coolant circulation. If so, then how accurate was the temp gage @ 195? What if the temp was much higher and there was minimal engine/gasket damage?
     
  12. Ferrarium

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    #13 Ferrarium, Sep 3, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
    Ohh I was watching. I did not turn it on and go grab a beer. I was right there. It takes 10 min to get to 190 normally. I shut it off at 190 in under than 10 min I felt the top hose get hot so thermostat opend but fans did not come on so no flow to radiators so i shut it down then. The coolnt sensor in the manifold gets water from the coolant tank hose. I could see temps climb at a normal rate as I normally see it. Overall engine heat seemd very normal.

    Block was not drained soit it was full also. Basically radiators were emptied. About 2 juga of prestone were drained and replaced.

    Temps were accurate as far as I can tell.

    Sent using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
  13. johnk...

    johnk... F1 Veteran
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    I don't want to rain on your parade, but what type of anti freeze did you use?
     
  14. Ferrarium

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  15. UrbanHero

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  16. Ferrarium

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    For reference when I say over heat my fans did not turn on by 200F. I had a bubble in the system.
    I use Prestone pre-mixed 50/50 green as that is what existed when the 348 was made. On newer cars perhaps not. Its amazing all the different coolant types these days with different chemicals and what not, it is getting real car specific. I went to pep boys wand was like WTH lol.
     
  17. tatry68

    tatry68 Karting
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    I always vacuum fill my 355 anytime that i change my coolant. Never a problem
     
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