New to me manual 400GT 24649

Very cool. Thank you for pointing that out!

 

Ok update:
I got to drive Corina (the name I’ve given to my 400- means ‘pretty’ in Italian) around 20 miles today! I must say… truly glorious at speed! Smooth like riding on a cloud. Soft driver seat and the sweet sound of the carb’d V12 with the windows open….
However inevitably found a few things. I will list them:
1- with engine off, and with engine on at idle the speedo shows 15-20 mph. Weird. Not sure if this is normal for this car,
2- left rad fan squealing / failing. do I revise the Lucas or replace with the Mercedes fans as I’ve been reading. Lots of options. I will take any opinions. Please and thank you
3- AC def dead. Compressor groaning and absolutely no cold air. Will likely replace as previously discussed
4- visor clip broken. Ordered
5- left and right blinkers blink fast or not at all. Will first change bulbs . Then explore circuitry if no bueno. Can we use led bulbs or does that require an adapter? Or is the consensus to stick with traditional H1 bulbs?
6- int lights not coming on when either door open. Bulbs vs switch
7- turned on my headlights to check ‘em. Left one started blinking… not the light bulb…the actual pop-up light! I’ve never seen that before in any car. It just would pop up and down without stopping even when I turn the lights off or when I turn the lights on. Then it sort of stopped on its own. I did the test again and the same thing happened. Maybe six or eight times. Finally stopped. I’m guessing something wrong with the relay? Maybe a short in the motor?
8- gotta reupholster the dash and change out the radio. Will likely do at the same time
9- last thing- there’s a light on the dash and I think it’s the catalytic converter light. Yellow coily light. Will get pics in am. Stayed on the whole drive. Guessing cat needs to be changed? Any input is appreciated.
Thanks!

 

Figured out 9
Rear window heater was on…

 

Ok so I think I want to be proactive and do the clutch on Corina. Although no gears are grinding the clutch engages very high, and sometimes slips. My question is: has someone put together a ‘kit’ to buy that includes all necessary parts? Or can someone from the group direct me to where I can source all necessary parts? Obviously I already did the Eurospares search and they have the clutch page there- but I don’t want to buy every part if there are only specific parts I should be getting.

I already bought new used rad fan motors and the Detomaso Pantera fan shroud- so we’ll see if they help!

thanks!

 

Thank you very much. I will be examining the fans later today; will def add the shroud in the front, and may add the third ‘puller’ behind.

and I will also be checking out the lights today. Biggest thing I took away from previous threads was to disconnect the battery before working on the light-lift motors to avoid pinched fingers. Will update as I find stuff out

any recs on the clutch?

one last thing any recommendations on the fuse panels and relay boards? do people upgrade them? Are they reliable or is it only a matter of time before they burn out?

thanks!

 

Ok I’ll leave the fuse panels alone for now

Yup I’ll try to get in there to disconnect the light motors once I see what’s causing what

The door lights I’m ok with (at least one works- the other I changed the bulb, and checked continuity in the bulb holder, but still no light)- it’s the interior dome lights that aren’t coming on when the doors are opened. So I thought it might be the little button by the door hinge. Btw is there any way other than opening the doors to turn the dome lights on?

 

Yep, I just read that this morning in… Guess where… The product manual! When in doubt read the directions! Thank you for following up

 

great to know you! what is your serial #?
The rads - I thought about doing the direct to battery radiator conversion with separate relay similar to what I have in my 456, but for now I'm going to try to keep it as 'stock' as I can; I'm rebuilding the Lucas motors and adding the DeTomaso fan shrouds.
the blinkers - thanks for the input!- I figured it wasn't the bulbs. I will check the relay in short time
the AC - I do not have the dual AC...I guess that will make it easier?
the bulbs - Just so I understand correctly you mean there should be no problem switching to LEDs?
Lastly I'm not sure what you mean about the door switches, and adjustable by turning a plastic knob? But I'd love to know!!

I'm still having a heck of time getting to this last bolt/nut to get the bottom valence off; they are rusted and extremely difficult to even reach! I'm wondering if the obvious thing to do is remove the fans and the plate to which they are attached? I think it's just remove the tube at the top of the fan, and disconnect the wire? Once that's out sure would be a lot easier access to not only the difficult bolt/nut but also general inspection of everything under/around there.

thanks again!

 

See pics of difficult bolt/nut.
Also, I realize that on the lower valance on the driver side, where the two holes are usually to hold the bracket which holds the plate attached to the blower, is broken. I will have to fix that once I cut free those 2 rusted bolts and get that whole lower valence removed
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Yep, I was in a fog. I just realized what you meant about the door switch. Yes in my troubleshooting I realized it was my misuse of the overhead dome lights. I didn’t realize if you click them forward or backward it would put lights on, or lights on with door open, or lights off. Anyway, turns out my door switches are fine.

Yes, the LED kelvins Should remain consistent to keep all the lights “the same color “

 

One thing forgot to mention: when I turn on my hazard lights both blinkers are fine. The rapid erratic blinking is only when I use my turn signals. Thus I don’t think it’s the relay because I believe I read that relay is for both directional blinkers AND hazards. Wonder if it’s the turn-signal stalk? will check the relay anyway….

 

Random question. As I begin to design and install the Spal radiator upgrade I realized my battery (+) is front and my (-) is back. For some reason I thought I saw the opposite in some pics. Also given the offset orientation of the poles they are offset to passenger side, and again I remember seeing them in pics to driver side. The car works so it’s not THAT big of a deal… but mysterious. As if they put the wrong battery in and just yanked the leads around. But they don’t seem to be under tension. And they don’t seem to be ‘redone’ or newer or anything like that because they are quite gnarled, as if truly 46 years old.
Any opinions one way or the other?
Ty

 

Thank you. That is precisely how mine looks.
And once again the moral of the story is: READ THE PRODUCT MANUAL!
Cheers

 

Another question for the group: has anyone installed a battery disconnect like in newer F models? And if so which one?
I have the ‘knife-blade’ kind on my Jeep, and old porsche- never had a problem. But not very classy.
The ‘race-car’ style big rotary switch is also a bit cumbersome and does not match the aesthetics of the 400
Could just buy one of the Ferrari model disconnects like on the 456.
Opinions welcome
Ty