New to me manual 400GT 24649 | Page 3 | FerrariChat

New to me manual 400GT 24649

Discussion in '365 GT4 2+2/400/412' started by Jaredsalinsky, Apr 5, 2024.

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  1. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
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    Read the previous discussion on the subject : if the kill switch is installed on the orizontal fiberglass panel that is between the firewall and the battery, you will have a switch with posts that point toward the battery and can be actuated from the cabin.

    Only issue, is the amperage from the starter will have to pass through the switch. Another solution is to bolt the switch against the passenger footwell that holds the relay panel. In this case you can disconnect the harness that feeds the relay panel without disconnecting the beefy cable that feeds the starter.
     
  2. Zanny1

    Zanny1 Formula 3
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    FWIW I don't care for the rotary switches you place on the battery. And, I don't leave the battery connected on any of my vintage cars. I use a blade type, which I have found to be quite reliable, on my '71 365 GTC/4. Hood clearance is fine. Yeah, you have to open the hood each time.... which gives me the opportunity to have a look at everything going on under there. Especially the banjo fittings on the fuel lines, which have a way of weeping ever so often. A quick snug, and they are fine.
    Here's a couple of pics that may be of service to you.
    Mike
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  3. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior
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    Great pic. Thank you. That’s exactly what I wanted to see. In the end the blade type work great; as I said it’s what I use on 2 of my other cars.
    Well I may end up using it since I have a spare one.
    Thanks again
     
  4. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
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    #54 raemin, May 4, 2024
    Last edited: May 4, 2024
    Not the best picture I can share, but that's where mine is located. (Diagram grabbed from Maranello Parts)

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    Pros :
    1) You just don't have to worry about any potential short, as the body is all fiberglass here.
    2) Inside the cabin so does not corrode and easier to operate
    3) starter kerps its original beefy harness
    4) cannot be seen

    Cons :
    1) Quite some work
     
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  5. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior
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    OK, I can see what you mean. The a lot of work part doesn’t necessarily scare me. That is pretty cool
     
  6. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior
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    A little update:
    1- received my new Sunvisor clips from D.Martijn. They’re perfect! And the color (whitish) is very close to original. Will post pic when installed
    2- the Spal rad fans are installed but not hooked up yet. Shouldn’t take long to hook up- just need a few hours in a row with dedicated work to get it done. Making final decisions where to install the relays. Will likely hide them in the front right corner behind the bumper. Opinions welcomed.
    3- the blinking headlight was in fact the stalk. I took it apart per the instruction from many previous threads (308, 400 etc all have the same headlight stalk). My contacts were good. Just needed to be cleaned. Thank goodness I didn’t lose the ball bearing!
    4- both interior lights work/come on when the doors are opened.

    while I have the lower valence and bumpers removed i’m taking the opportunity to improve the grounds for the blower motors and side-bumper lights, and clean up some superficial rust in the bumper corners, and on the plate which holds the blower motor bracket .

    Once the rad fans are done I will begin on the reupholstery, and the AC. Very exciting!
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  7. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
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    You do not need relays: the older 400i 400carb & 365 had a strong setup and these fans will not draw more current than the stock ones. The harness is beefy, unlike the 412 and 400i gen2 the old relay panel is equally beefy, the only weak point is the fuse block (in the glove box). Well not the fuse block, but its spade connectors. If you have any doubt about it you can use better connectors (the white connectors that are connected to the fuse block), or silver grease.

    Last but not least the original Bosch relays are really strong, and easy to service. Keep them!.

    I do have a mishimoto heavy duty fan, which is a "copy cat" of your spal, the system does handle it without any drama.
     
  8. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior
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    Ok I thought someone might have that data/opinion. Thank you.
    Although on their site it does say they draw 30 amps- that’s quite a bit….

    I think I have an amp/multi meter so I can check amp draw on the Spals.
    More pics to follow!
     
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  9. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior
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    So at the end of the day I ended up going with the new relays. It’s (nearly) 50 year old wiring and it just made me feel more comfortable and confident having new Bosch relays, with fused 10 gauge wire leads.
    1st pic is front view with everything hooked up
    2nd pic is looking straight up from the floor - the relay bracket is attached behind the front frame rail, and will ultimately be hidden behind the bumper. All the wiring will be hidden and neatly secured with zip ties.

    Notice the ground point on the second frame rail just in front of the rad fans. This is the native ground for the 2 Lucas fans, which are now pin 85 on the relays and thus are still grounds. I added the 2 grounds for the Spal fans, so now there are 4 grounds there. Seem ok? Or too many points of grounding there?

    also, I’m considering adding a small plastic or thin aluminum base plate to hide and protect the relay bracket. Thoughts and opinions?
    Thank you
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  10. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

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    You should use a dedicated relay socket. These are cheap and do look much better.

    The multiple ground is a non issue in our cars.

    Your fan mounts are quite clever, at ĺeast the overall look seems stock. Maybe you should round a few corners and refinish these mounts with wrinckle paint (flat paint would also be fine).
     
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  11. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior
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    Yup the mounting idea works well to keep the original 3-hole brackets for the original Lucas, and keep the overall look stock. Mounting the hollowed body of the Lucas fan to the body of the Spal using its own screw holes seemed most appropriate.
    It was not my idea, but for the life of me I can’t find the thread from where I got the idea! (I’m sure it was a 308 thread…)
    Yes agree before final install of lower valance I will likely ‘round off’ and paint the 4 aluminum fan brackets on each fan.
    Ty
     
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  12. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    A nice and inexpensive socket is offered by TE/AMP via part number 1-1904045-1. These are less than $1 and can be found on DigiKey, Mouser, etc. They do require crimped receptacles, but these are also inexpensive and can be found at the same and other suppliers. There are also variations that include a mounting tab/ear as well.

    The other benefit in using a socket is that it reduces the chance of a wiring error if you ever need to change out the relays.

    Cheers,

    Sam

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  13. Ak Jim

    Ak Jim F1 Veteran
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    Dec 23, 2007
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    Just curious, on the crimp connectors do you also solder them along with crimping?
     
  14. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

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    I used to solder them, but this makes a mess with the insulation. A good crimping tool with the proper jaws makes a perfect crimp.

    I sometime secure the crimp with adhesive heat shrink tubing. With thin wall cables, the issue is that the connectors do crimp two portion of the cables (the copper and the insulation). The idea is to use a connector size that is suited to the copper of the cable, then add heat shrink tubing to the insulation so as to match the cable overall diameter with the second part of the connector. if the wire does have a thin wall insulation, I consequently add the tube before crimping. The added material is crimped together with the cable and allows for a better crimp.

    Also I tend to buy the higher quality connectors: my supplier do offer the connectors in various quality, and the more expensive ones (we are talking in terms o pennies...) are indeed made out of thicker sheets of metal. The thicker connectors are slightly harder to crimp, but the copper bits end-up much more "packed". By contrast when only the flimsy connectors are available, the resulting crimp is not so good (the flexibility of the metal makes the crimp loose its initial grip once the ratchet is released), in this case a bit of solder used to help, but that's a last resort, as I prefer to use another type of connector (when available).

    Last but not least: when replacing cables, it's best to use the same wall thickness as the stock harness, in order to standardize the crimping process. The only thin wall cables I've been using were for the mirrors: these modern cables were easier to route in the door, but I had to use the additional tubing in order to secure them properly.
     
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  15. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior
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    I have recently identified a trim piece I am missing, and I'd reeeeally like to find it. hoping someone has an idea of how to procure it.
    I need the stainless steel molding piece that goes around the mesh grill, but attaches to the lower valence... pic to follow....
     
  16. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior
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