pics and pretty detailed explanation on page 1. I'll try and take some measurements in the car but I doubt I'll be anymore accurate than what I posted with regards to how much material needs to be removed exactly. I have the old motor mounts out of the car which is probably what I went off but I think they had some compression memory in them which is why I think .500" was .025" to .050" too much. Someone mentioned in this or another thread the most critical thing is that the shift rod be lined up AND the oil pan isn't hanging below the frame. Sounds like no one else has put these in a driving car ... I'm pretty sure a couple of the guys with ongoing projects put them in but their cars aren't running/driving right now ... my point is the vibration/feeling from the engine reminded me of a 355 I drove ... really "attached" feeling ... makes the passenger seat even more fun for the ladies . cheers
Have ordered up four of the urethane mounts for my 308, however have only used mount to measure from. Any of you have a new set that you would be so kind as to measure the height so I can work from fresh nin sagging units. Cheers kdl
Thank, I only need the height from the top of the upper mounting flange to the bottom of the mount-where it mates with the chassis. Or just from the bottom of the flange to the bottom of the mount and I can measure up the difference flange thickness and determine the amount of material to remove from the Mustang mounts. Cheers and best holiday greetings kdl
Hey Sean, I need to get ready for the upcoming track day. One of the things that needs doing is motor mounts. If I ship a small baggie of Money to you witht the Moostang mounts from Sumit can you do it for me??? Hard shifting in a turn, chris
yeah no prob Chris ... I've done a few sets of these now and have a "2nd generation" mod I do which makes them easy to get in and out without having to jack up the engine. I'll post some pics. cheers
I have seen heavy wear on the cast shifter body inside the car, especially on the rear hole where the rod comes out/shift rod attaches inside the car. I had .05" (not a typo) on the housing. I was able to get it out without completely removing the console (got it up a couple inches and got the shifter out from the side) or either of the seats. I wanted to put some kinda bronze bushings in there but ended up just welding the housing up a bit and re-machining the parts. The .05" wear made the bottom of the actual shifter rub inside the casting on the bottom (a squeek that no amount of oil remedied ... didn't know that was the cause 'til I took it apart). All of the wear was on the bottom half of the housing (it's spring loaded in that direction .. make sense), which made the shifter assembly sit lower in the housing ... so low that it was clearing the reverse detent feature on the gate. So because I rebuilt it the reverse shifter detent works now. cheers
Hi Sean, It sounds like going through the shift linkage from front to back is the way to go, particularly, once we get the exhaust off of the shift linkage. A while ago, i got a set of shifter bushings from Verell at Unobtanium Supply, he even sent the installation tool along with it - Thanks Verell. But first, i need to get the mounts right. PM sent about shipping instructions and how big a bag of $$ to send. Thanks for the good work. chris
PM'd you back ... the mounts have come down in price a bit ... PTP-6-505-BL ... $129.95/pr from Summit ... a bargain. cheers
hi all, During my 308 QV's current engine-out major (oil leaks galour) I'd like to replace the oil soaked, cruddy wobbly OEM MM. The Summit ones sure are nicely priced. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-6-505-BL/?rtype=10 Since most of the posts in this thread are a few years old, has anyone somewhat recently installed these and care to comment (any regrets?) I sent a PM about a week ago to Lucky asking about his '2nd gen' mounts and whether he is modifying the Summit mounts for grateful F-Chat bretheren/customers, but seems he hasn't been on the board for a few weeks. thanks much Kurt
I've been wondering how people like them and thinking this might be on my to-do list as well. Lucky told me last week that he'd be out of touch for a little bit....
Thanks - was hoping to get my engine back in in about 2-3 weeks so if he's out of pocket for a good while will probably just order them and try to mod myself. cheers
Thanks to Sean (Lucky) for machining the Summit mounts for me - I just did a test fit on the mount carriers and all looks ready to go in hopefully in a couple weeks. Note - you'll need slightly longer M8 bolts due to thicker aluminum on the new mounts. I ordered a pack of 25 from McMaster-Carr of M8 x 1.25mm pitch x 25mm long zinc plated. Should have also ordered new nuts while I was there, will add them to my next order. Also note, the mount-carrier shown in the photos below is slightly bent/deformed, presumeably because there was no top washer (I think this is the first engine-out service, so maybe none from the factory?!). The gap on the inside (engine side) edge won't be as great when I torque down the nuts, but there's clearly been 1-2mm of movement. I'll be putting big flat washers on both sides of the bolt for reassembly. FWIW - I can squeeze the poly material slightly between my fingers, so if this totally unscientific test means anything they shouldn't be too much harsher than the already quite firm OEM mounts. cheers - Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Over the past few days we installed the motor and hit minor snag. The rear motor mounts didn't exactly line up with the frame holes, it required some leaning on a long crow bar to get the mount-to-frame bolts started (as you can see in the pic below the mounts are slightly angled out at the top). Talked this over with Sean and we surmised that maybe the bent bracket shown in the photo above was the culprit; widening the frame holes a touch with a file is one solution. Well, the real answer made me smack my forehead... We all had assumed that the mount-to-trans brackets were identical (diagonally i.e. front right is the same as rear left). At a glance they look to be so. However, they are (slightly) different. Didn't find anything on F-Chat about this, but after checking part numbers on Eurospares site confirmed there are 3 different #s for the 4 mounts. Luckily the shop had another 308 around so we lifted that up and I measured the brackets as shown in the scan below. Sure enough, after comparing to my bracket locations the driver's side rear and passenger side front looked reversed. Once I did this the 4 frame bolts lined up perfectly, there was enough room to install the thermostat pipe, and the dogbone and shifter shaft lined right up. So FYI if and when you remove the motor mount brackets it's worth a few minutes to permanently mark them for location... and don't doubt Sean's machining skills - the parts are dead-nuts perfect. hopefully will be on the road in a week, can't wait! cheers PS: Sean - to your original question on the spacers I believe the 2 front spacers are upside-down in the photo on page 1. The wide part should contact the frame to better distribute the load; the narrow part is the same diameter of the OEM mount mating flange. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login