John you need to lower the rear.........just doesn't sit correctly IMO
Fronts 40mm offset, 5-108, 8 inch wide 225/40-18 Rears 65mm offset, 5-108, 10.5 inch wide 265/40-18 I like 235/40-18 for the fronts because it is almost exactly the same as stock and a better match in proportion to the new rear profile. I also discovered that the dimensions and the app on Tire Rack were based on the original narrow track rear. That's why I needed new lug bolts. Now that the rears are mounted and I am seeing the details, even thought the new wheel is wide, it seems to be the same width as stock 94+ (late) but with the original hub width. This actually tucks it closer into the well and not the same or wider like the app says. I am really going in circles on this. I may have even tweaked the frame by leaving the car up on stands, one corner when doing the hvac scoop under panel, and then the whole side when doing the wheels. I got spacers from another member last year but was short one bolt and couldn't get them to fit the fronts. I may use them now for the rears with the original long bolts or what came with the spacers and new nuts. Washed it and drove it today and had fun. But man this is almost a hard time wise as doing the suspension on my Miata. The wheels are very nice but the app was a little out to lunch on this.
What's the stock width and offset on the rears of a 1994 Spider? I think it might be 10 to 10.5 width just like my OZs but the offset is greater and results in a matching bolt length to the fronts. I have a set of spacer adapters with allen head studs, flush nuts, and then tall lug nuts for the mounted studs. I think they are 25mm but the tall nuts might be too tall. I could use the spacer with my stock bolts if the adapter studs were removed. Need to check the lengths.
The offsets look great on the car and your sizes are pretty much exactly what most other guys run when going to 18" wheels. On my car I wouldn't dare go up to a 45 series tire in the rear, the 40 is a perfect fit. As others have mentioned, I think if you want to get the fender to tire proportion a little better you'll have to lower the car rather than going with new tires. the sizes you have are pretty much the norm FWIW, i'm not convinced all tire makers numbers are equal
Right, I have been reading about the maker numbers being all over the place. With my Dunlops on the Miata and the Bridgstones here, I see a newer "tuner" tendency to lean the sidewall in over a "stretched" width, which usually looks good when slammed and tucked under the fender. I don't want that. The rear offset or wheel face, is NOT the same as 1994 stock. It is a little further in and this concerns me with cornering and stability. I wanted a slightly taller profile on the FRONTS to better match the rears, just like the stock tires I had on it, or from the dealer. They were not the same profile but 5 points taller on the fronts. I want a better proportional match between tire and WHEEL, equal from front to rear. But I looked at them in front of the tv for a week side by side. the sidewall is shorter proportionally on the fronts. Maybe they just need to settle some more? I'm going to look at the taller fronts and my spacers this weekend, if not just the spacers tonight. Gotta get groceries! Front - taller profile Rear - Wider offset, spacer
ok this is with a 25mm spacer. allen screw in, 21mm nut. not sure of torque on allen. studs seemed a little short on the spacer. long nuts had only 1cm of threads +- torque. You can see the long nuts. Whst do you think? I took a 2x4 and did a plumb line from lower rim to top rim on other side pure OZ hub. it fall right on tbe fender edge in the center of hub. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Damn phone tilt. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Those rears look exactly like my rears with the 360 10" wheels on them, I wouldn't space it out any further. Thus with the rim being +65MM and your 25MM spacer, you are at +40MM net offset on a 10.5 rim width.
Ok I am back from a meeting at Copley down town, and Anime club for the kids here at the branch. Here is a pic of the car this past winter before the engine out service. I have not touched the ride height and I don't think IFS did either. I should be able to work around the original sizes and get the same or smaller fender gap right? The rears are taller than stock but narrower without the spacer. If you guys think I can get by with 25mm or maybe go 15 or 10 then let me know. What should I torque the allen bolts too in the hub? They seem to get to around 35 ft lbs and keep moving. Only one really tightened up to bear 75 ft lbs. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I can't handle the off kilter phone tilt of those pics so I am posting them again corrected. Can someone please post the torque specs for wheel adapter allen bolts? The allen socket is a little skinny and I don't want to wail on it and twist it, but I don't want the thing coming loose either. What is the width and offset of the newer 94 348 Spider wheels? I think it's 10 inches or more, not 9! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
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Yes, these are perfect! But you gotta LOVE your 348 for those (Pricing starts at $999.52 per wheel). Rear tire OD seems to be coming up short.
I have a 15mm spacer on my 355 spider. It fit a 295 tire (OEM is 265) perfectly in the wheel well. A 15mm rear spacer and lowering springs, I promise you will be very happy!
OD meaning outer diameter? I am NOT going larger on rear tire. Only spacing now. I still have my stock longbolts so I may have the studs removed and just use those if its still safe. The FRONTS will take a 235 width and corresponding slightly taller same 40 profile. This will preserve the sometimes 5mm stagger in profile height, albeit indirectly. Does anyone know the torque spec for hub adapter bolts? How do you like the fender edge fit without the spacer?
IMO, the spacer (in and out) is not going to fix the problem. Somehow your OD (outer diameter) does seem different. Your pic with the OEM wheels I'm assuming is also with OEM tires Rear 255/45/17 = 661mm or 26.1" the new combo with 18x10.5" wheels Rear 265/40/18 = 669mm or 26.3" Virtually the same overal diameter as per the wheel calculator, so I'm not sure whats going on. Do the new wheels pyshically measure what the calculator says? About 26-1/4" Again, I think not all tire makers numbers are the same. I switched wheels and tires on my Lotus esprit. Same wheel specs both times same tire specs both times, but changed tire maker. After the switch I had rubbing on the inner fender well I never had before.
FWIW... The tire calculator I use wont allow for a 265 on a 10.5 wide wheel, it defaults to 10". The streching of the 265 onto a wider wheel may shorten the sidewall enough to account for the difference or add to the optical illusion that the OD is different.
Problem? I can deal with the up down gap by lowering the perches. The tire sizes got me started, and wheel design change at Ferrari caused some confusion at OZ. The new wheels are wider than Ferrari first gen but I measured the OZs at about the same width as the second gen Ferrrari wheel but with a short bolt requirement. That's where the spacer-offset "problem" comes from. The hub width was same as first gen so it didnt sit as proud as second gen. I am looking for allen stud torque specs and can't find anything more than standard lug torque. That seems natural but I was getting queezy winding them into the hub when one tightened up much sooner than the others. Also the tall outer nuts stand a bit more proud than on the fronts. Even with the spokes.
Ok on the calc. The ones I used didnt give me any conflicts. The wider front at 235 will be spot on if the sidewall doesn weird out on angle. Any thoughts on torques?
Yes, outer diameter. But photos really don't show very well. Awesome wheels tho... Like this? . Image Unavailable, Please Login
